aftermarket oil pressure gauge and factory warning light for big blocks

moonrunner1972

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Greetings all,

A while back someone posted a photo of the "plumbing" necessary for running the factory oil pressure lamp with an aftermarket pressure gauge on a big block. Does anyone out there have a picture of this setup?
 
The rear of my 383 (and I presume most big blocks of the era) has two threaded oil ports on the back of the block. One has the factory sender (white wire in photo below). There should be a small pipe plug you can remove from the second port and plumb in either a hard line for a mechanical gauge or a sender unit for an electric gauge. The pic below shows a hose coming from my second port, and I have since removed the rubber hose and plumbed in a copper hard line for a mechanical gauge.

IMG_0105.JPG
 
I appreciate your response. My plan is to use the same port you referenced in your post and install the factory sender. Currently I have a functioning mechanical gauge running from that port. I recall seeing a brass fitting that someone had rigged up to accommodate both the sending unit and the mechanical gauge. I will look to see if I have the second plug. If so, I would assume I could simply thread in the sender and reinstall the wire and have the best of both worlds. Thanks again.:sSig_thanks:
 
The plug on the passenger side is too close to the block and can only be used for a fitting for a mechanical gauge. A sending unit won't fit in there anyway.

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So would you recommend a brass fitting that could accommodate both the sending unit and the gauge?
 
If you want a sending unit for the oil light and a mechanical oil pressure gauge, leave the sending unit on the driver's side port and install the fitting for your oil line going to the gauge on the passenger side port, or...
install the nipple on the passenger side port as an extension and mount your second unit to the nipple. With nipples and TEEs, the combinations are endless.

If you are using an electronic gauge needing its own sending unit, thread in a 3" pipe (it's called a "nipple" at the store) and a brass TEE to the top of the nipple and install your two different sending units to the TEE.

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I appreciate all of the advice I have received on this query. I do however need some additional assistance. This afternoon, I attempted to remove the square plug that sits opposite the brass fitting threaded into the block which is connected to the hose for my mechanical oil pressure gauge. I tried using a 3/8" 8 point socket to remove the plug but to no avail. I then attempted to use a small 6" adjustable with similar results. My question; is there a special socket used to remove this plug?
 
Those plugs are notorious for being damn near impossible to get out sometimes. It's rare that the square head doesn't get rounded when trying to remove the plug. Soak the plug with nut buster penetrating oil for a few days.

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There is also 8pt sockets, 12pt sockets work on some if not too tight.
On one of the ones on the side of my block we needed to use one of those cam lock bolt extractors but those need clearance.


Alan
 
There is also 8pt sockets, 12pt sockets work on some if not too tight.
On one of the ones on the side of my block we needed to use one of those cam lock bolt extractors but those need clearance.


Alan
I believe he said in post #8 he used an 8pt. socket.

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I always used a really high quality adjustable wrench .. a big meaty one and hit it with PB blaster before hand then hit it with a hammer to break it free.
 
Snapon sells internal and external pipe plug sockets in just about any size. 3/8 s or 1/2 inch drive.
Sorry for the shameless plug. LOL:eusa_whistle:
I'm a snapon dealer
 
I have to ask. Seriously. I really have to.
For a plug with a 3/8" head, WHY, pray tell, does anyone need to by a tool when they have a 3/8ths drive extension.
Really...

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I watched on Amazon last night Lewis Black's most recent show.
I pissed my BVD's about 15 times from laughing so hard.

 
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Lewis Black is hilarious....

He looks just like my Dad too.....
 
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