Air blower removal issue (74 Fury Gran Sedan)

[Seb'74]

Hi friends, I'm trying to remove the blower motor from my car, because it won't blow anything. Actualy it does not work anymore at any speed. It used to blow at 1st, 2nd, and 3rd speed, then only 1st and 2nd, then Nothing (not a fuse issue, I already checked).
To acces to it, I removed the hood compensator and unbolted the inner fender panel, as mentionned in the Haynes repair manual. I can't remove in totality the inner fender panel, but it is not really a matter. My big problem is the bar, circled in red in the pic, that seems to be bolted close to the subframe (down) and welded to the fender (up). And the bar is bloking the blower motor, impossible to remove it from its airbox.

Has anybody encounterd the same problem? What if I cut this bar? Will the car behave like the Bluesmobile at the end of the movie (haha!)? What can I do to remove the blower motor?
Info on the car : 74 Fury Gran Sedan, 400 cid, no aircond, export specs (sold brand new in France in 1974).
Thanks for your help friends!

 

[Davea Lux]

I think there are a couple of spot welds that hold that bracket in place. If you unbolt the bracket from the frame, the spot welds can be drilled out to remove the bracket. You can put small bolts in the holes when you are done. Second method would be to remove the whole fender to get all out of the way. Have you checked to be sure the resistor for the blower motor has not failed. Resistor failure is actually more common than a failed motor. The fan selector switches were also prone to failure.
You can test the motor by running a lead from the positive terminal on the battery to the power lug on the motor to see if it will run. If the motor will run using this test, the problem is probably either with your switch or the resistor.

Dave

 

[Seb'74]

Thanks Dave, that's a pretty clear explanation. I'll check the motor at first. But how can I check the resistor?

 

[cbarge]

Thanks Dave, that's a pretty clear explanation. I'll check the motor at first. But how can I check the resistor?

With a multi meter test continuity on each settingg at the resistor block.
Not sure about Formals,but other C's the resistor block is accessable under the dfash typicaly bolted to the heater box.
If you can pull it out then bench test each resistor coil.
At the plug that goes into the resistor,use a test light check for power going to resisitor.
With key on and blower switch on chweck all three wires in plug. Each wire is for each speed and test accordingly.
If no power coming from switch,it is bad.
Under the hood ground test light and check the power plug going to blower motor. If no power to motor the resistor is bad. If power to motor,motor is bad

Hope this helps

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks Dave, that's a pretty clear explanation. I'll check the motor at first. But how can I check the resistor?

The resistor is on the air box, usually close to the glove box and has a bunch of wires in a plug hooked to it. It will usually be held in by two small screws. You can pull it out to examine it, you will see some wire coils on the back side, if any are burned out the resistor is shot. If you run a test light to the power lead that goes to the fan motor, you should be able to get the test light to turn on with each switch position, that verifies that there is power to the motor, do that before you pull the resistor. If you have power, the motor is likely bad.

Dave

 

[Mr C]

If the blower motor is bad. The car must be jacked up, tire removed, inner fender removed, brace removed in order to access and replace blower motor.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

If the blower motor is bad. The car must be jacked up, tire removed, inner fender removed, brace removed in order to access and replace blower motor.

Just like a GM, they must of hired some GM people in the engineering department for these models.

I've done many GM's with dropping the inner fender, it's really not that hard, just zing all the bolts out with your air wrench. If your using a hand ratchet yea I could see it taking some time but on the GM's dropping the fender was quicker than making the template, measuring, and jigsawing out the access hole, (I'm a famous blade breaker). Doing the access hole is fine for the next guy, but I would put in a factory replacement part and I'm sure it would be the last time the vehicle would ever see the motor replaced.

 

[Seb'74]

With a multi meter test continuity on each settingg at the resistor block.
Not sure about Formals,but other C's the resistor block is accessable under the dfash typicaly bolted to the heater box.
If you can pull it out then bench test each resistor coil.
At the plug that goes into the resistor,use a test light check for power going to resisitor.
With key on and blower switch on chweck all three wires in plug. Each wire is for each speed and test accordingly.
If no power coming from switch,it is bad.
Under the hood ground test light and check the power plug going to blower motor. If no power to motor the resistor is bad. If power to motor,motor is bad

Hope this helps

Thanks Cbarge, I'll do it ASAP

 

[Seb'74]

If the blower motor is bad. The car must be jacked up, tire removed, inner fender removed, brace removed in order to access and replace blower motor.

I'll check the blower motor, and if it's bad, I'll jack again, and remove wheel and inner fender again

 

[Seb'74]

Just like a GM, they must of hired some GM people in the engineering department for these models.

I've done many GM's with dropping the inner fender, it's really not that hard, just zing all the bolts out with your air wrench. If your using a hand ratchet yea I could see it taking some time but on the GM's dropping the fender was quicker than making the template, measuring, and jigsawing out the access hole, (I'm a famous blade breaker). Doing the access hole is fine for the next guy, but I would put in a factory replacement part and I'm sure it would be the last time the vehicle would ever see the motor replaced.

Interresting story, about different brands/same problems ;) thanks

 

[PeugFra]

Info on the car : 74 Fury Gran Sedan, 400 cid, no aircond, export specs (sold brand new in France in 1974).

I'm sooo curious to know the last six digits of your VIN. If you could share it, that would be very much appreciated!

 

[Seb'74]

I'm sooo curious to know the last six digits of your VIN. If you could share it, that would be very much appreciated!

102323 : the last 6 digits, but how can this be so interesting? It's just the serial number ;) VIN is PP43M4F102323.
By the way : take care of you, man. Take really care of you. I'm very sad for Italy. Forza Italia! (almost all I can say in Italian!)

 

[Davea Lux]

102323 : the last 6 digits, but how can this be so interesting? It's just the serial number ;) VIN is PP43M4F102323.
By the way : take care of you, man. Take really care of you. I'm very sad for Italy. Forza Italia! (almost all I can say in Italian!)

Yours is an early production vehicle, sequence numbers started at 100000 (last 6 digits). Serial numbers actually give a fair amount of information. This is a:
P=Plymouth Fury
P=Premium Price Class
43= 4Dr HT
M=400 2BBL Engine
4=Year 1974
F-Newark Delaware Production Plant

Dave

 

[Seb'74]

Yours is an early production vehicle, sequence numbers started at 100000 (last 6 digits). Serial numbers actually give a fair amount of information. This is a:
P=Plymouth Fury
P=Premium Price Class
43= 4Dr HT
M=400 2BBL Engine
4=Year 1974
F-Newark Delaware Production Plant

Dave

According to what I found with VIN decoders, mine was built August 1973 (I don't remember the exact day, I wrote it somewhere but...)

 

[PeugFra]

Thanks for the VIN! I alway suspected Newark-built cars got exported to Europe, but this is my first confirmed case (uh-oh wrong terminology!).

If you find a door sticker like this:

you will know the exact day your car was completed. Mine, for instance, was built October 20 (the first four digits of the MDH value). Only mine is not an export-spec car, as it was sold new in North Carolina during the summer of 1974.

By the way : take care of you, man. Take really care of you.

Thanks for your encouraging words. I'm still in good health, which means I didn't contract the virus up until two weeks ago.

 

[Seb'74]

@PeugFra ,I don't have this door sticker anymore. Actually, I never had it. My car started life as brown color, but for an unknown reason, has been repainted in blue. So the sticker door must have disappear during this occasion?
But, I have the original importer tag, on the inner fender. Here is a pic of the tag :

And a closer view :

A nice tag, when Chrysler France headquarters used to be located at 136, Champs Elysées, Paris. Basic info, nothing else than VIN, nominal weight loaded, and maximum weight with loaded trailer. But it's a nice tag.

 

[PeugFra]

That tag must be what they call a "plaque constructeur" or "plaque d'indentification" in French classic car circles. This is probably from a pre-1969 Coronet station wagon, as it seems to read WH45:

And for a 1975 Gran Fury that was exported to Switzerland:

In the absence of a door sticker, does your car at least have a fender tag, like this:

That would put an approximate date on the car.

 

[Seb'74]

Yes I have this fender tag. After decoding it, I knew the exact definition of my car ;)

 

[PeugFra]

Then what does your tag say where the above PH41 tag has "A16"?

 

[Seb'74]

It says "819", date built August 8th 1973. I don't have the pic , I wrote the codes on a paper... I'll take a pic tomorrow