Alignment Woes - 72 Fury

[Analog Kid]

So after sitting two days at the alignment shop the mechanic called me and said he can't do it.
Not exactly sure why.....he didn't say. Maybe they don't want the liability.

So....any suggestions in the DC area for someone that can do an alignment on this car? I am going to try a local restoration shop but if someone has a recommendation that would be better.

Thanks,

 

[rapidtrans]

My local Belle Tire can align the Monaco just fine. Has all the adaptors to fit the wheel openings at the rear wheels.

 

[78Brougham]

Shame he didn't tell you that two days ago, but at least he was honest and didn't screw it up.

He obviously just didn't want to get involved.
Did you want him to set it up to original specs or were you requesting something funky?

 

[mrfury68]

Any "old school" alignment or general repair shops that do alignments in your area. Maybe a family owned multi-generational shop that has a mechanic or two born before 1985 that may have done a few alignments on cars like ours. (No offense to those born after 1985) Any local car clubs you can get references from. Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Sorry your mechanic couldn't do it. Most cars now are tie rod adjust only, toe-and-go. If that doesn't work, they just send you to a collision shop because something in the McPherson strut suspension is bent. Your mechanic probably figured that he could do 4 late model alignments in the time it would take to do yours.

If you're willing to ride to Richmond area, Smith Auto, Cassidy Auto, or Big Mo's could do it. Charles Smith is well connected. You could call him at 804-559-3700. He might know somebody in DC. PM me if you're coming to Richmond area. It would be great to meet somebody else from the site.

Here's your Fury's brother from Belvidere. My 72 Fury saying, "Please let me off these jack stands."

 

[Analog Kid]

Ok...I called a restoration shop in Sterling, VA. The guy there says he can do it for $125. It's within walking distance to my office so I am going to try that.

Here's your Fury's brother from Belvidere. My 72 Fury saying, "Please let me off these jack stands."

Yep....I know that feeling....my was on stands for almost 8 months. Good to know someone else has one in VA too.

 

[Analog Kid]

Did you want him to set it up to original specs or were you requesting something funky?

I just wanted original specs. I even left my service manual there to help them out.

 

[78Brougham]

Well... I guess you need to find another shop. Any custom shops in your area, they might know a good shop.

 

[Davea Lux]

The other issue might be that the alignment shop spotted some worn components. These days shops are conscious about liability issues and often will refuse to align a car if something isn't right. Also possible that he was clueless about how to align your beast. Probably better he was honest than having him screw it up.

Dave

 

[polara71]

Also possible that he was clueless about how to align your beast.

I think thats it right there

 

[CBODY67]

If he'd found some significantly-worn components, that should have been noted when he declined to participate, I'd suspect.

Some alignment techs see "eccentric cam adjustments" as "t-r-o-u-b-l-e". They want "SHIMS" and nothing else. They claim that if you hit a bump, it can move the eccentric and ruin their alignment settings. AND worse on the "slip-n-slide" arrangement on the Formals! Has nothing to do with worn or old rubber bushings, just how the adjustment is done. Like muffler shops that desire welded pipes rather than OEM-spec clamped pipes, they just want to do something ONCE and have a pleased (didn't say "satisfied") customer and no "It doesn't drive right" results they'll have to live with "forever". There seem to be several aged stories about somebody's friend that really got "snake-bit" by doing an eccentric-bolt front end alignment . . . that's generations old.

In general, alignment specs are pretty basic, with some model-specific tweeks. Caster at about 1 degree positive, camber at (basically) Zero degrees, and toe-in set to the min-spec and very close to Zero Inches toe-in. If you want to get picky, you need to sit in the car when the alignment is being done, with 1/2 tank of gas, etc. Basically simulating the vehicle loading that is typical for how it's usually driven. Of course, with the tires inflated to what you normally inflate them to.

Let us know how it comes out.

CBODY67

 

[65sporty]

Any alignment guy worth their weight could do it, even with the FSM for the specs. The guy's we use sometimes will need the specs for older cars because the computer on the alignment machine doesn't go back that far.

 

[Davea Lux]

Any alignment guy worth their weight could do it, even with the FSM for the specs. The guy's we use sometimes will need the specs for older cars because the computer on the alignment machine doesn't go back that far.

A lot of alignment guys don't go back that far either, hence their confusion.

Dave

 

[Analog Kid]

Strike Two!

The restoration shop said they couldn't do the alignment because the steering box was bad - ???

They gave me a $1500 estimate to replace the box and some hoses as well as align the vehicle. I said "thank you" and promptly picked up my car.

I'm learning a valuable lesson here. That is - I need to avoid as much as possible bringing this car to an automotive shop - of any kind.

I will try and adjust the ride height myself and then evaluate the steering issues. I have read on some posts here that there is an adjusting bolt on the steering box that may solve the wandering issue. Of course...having it aligned first would rule out any alignment causes so I don't understand why they couldn't have just done what I asked and then dealt with the steering issues.

 

[CBODY67]

Steering box adjustment keeps the steering wheel "Free play" decreased, but doesn't have anything to do with the alignment OR how well it's done.

The ride height adjustment on the torsion bars is easy to do, but can be tricky in how Chrysler specs it out. Basically, the bottom of the rocker panel should be parallel to the road surface when everything's set correctly. Many advocate using the height of the front wheel opening, which can be variable as one fender might be a little higher than the other side, for example, knowing how much variance there can be in a car body. On the rocker panel deal, just eyeball it after you've driven it so that everything's pretty much where it should be. All it takes to do the adjustment is a big wrench with a little offset in it, as the head of the bolt is between the two "ribs" in the control arms. Do a little at a time, then recheck. If you go too much, the front end will be high.
,
The ride height can affect camber adjustment and ultimate caster angles.

As for the steering gearbox, those Chrysler boxes will NOT feel or act like a similar GM box, no way, no how. That's just how they were back then. Also, check the "rag joint" at the base of the steering column for deterioration. If it might have been installed wrong (there are two ways it will assembly, so I'm told), which can also cause a "loose steering" situation.

Next time they tell you they can't align the car unless they replace the steering gearbox, tell them you're more worried about tire wear than steering slop, at THIS time.

CBODY67

 

[62dodge]

A jack, jack stands, plumb bob, level, tape measure, and some string align it your self. the last car I did it to was a 65 Dodge

 

[CBODY67]

A jack, jack stands, plumb bob, level, tape measure, and some string align it your self. the last car I did it to was a 65 Dodge

No matter how fancy an alignment machine might be, it's still measuring angles and inches. Pure geometry whether you do it "analog" or "electronic".

Many dealerships are now doing "complimentary alignment checks" on cars which go through the service drive. Put a sensor on each wheel, do the basic calibration, push the car forward and then push it backward by the same amount from the "start". Voila! Results are printed. OF course, this is used as a tool to sell full alignments, if they needed.

CBODY67

 

[rapidtrans]

I just raised the front of my 65 last summer. Sprayed the adjusting bolts with a penetrating oil a few days prior. I adjusted the height with car on ground. A few cranks with a ratchet, drive it around the sub and speed bumps, check height again and repeat if necessary. Surprising what a half inch in ride height does to the ride and looks. Get it aligned when done.

 

[Analog Kid]

I found this video online. It's from 1976 but seems close enough.

 

[mrfury68]

This may sound stupid but have you checked to see if the steering gear mounting bolts are loose. This was fairly common on our cars. As mentioned earlier, check the coupling that connects the column to the gear.