altenator upgrade

66furywagon

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has anybody put a newer style alternator on there car.
like a 120 amp from a 90 truck.
what all did u do
pics please and info
 
(MoPower for an entertainment center upgrade?)
 
has anybody put a newer style alternator on there car.
like a 120 amp from a 90 truck.
what all did u do
pics please and info

The factory wiring will not support (90/120) that much amperage for very long. You will need to bypass the factory ammeter and run a heavy gauge lead from the higher output alternator to the big post on the starter relay. An appropriately sized fusible link will also need to be installed in the heavy gauge lead. The factory ammeter will melt down and potentially start a fire if not at least partially bypassed. There are several threads on this site on how to do this. The factory fusible link is also too small to support the increased amperage of a heavier alternator, so that will need to be upgraded as well.

Dave
 
Start with why.
Tell us why you're thinking of doing that and then better advice can be given.
 
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Start with why.
Tell us why you're thinking of doing that and then better advice can be given.

In general, without the on-board computer systems on more vintage non-computered vehicles (engines, brakes, etc.), the real need for higher-power alternators is not really needed. The '76-'79 B-bodies (and probably C-bodies) with the electric heated rear windows had a factory 100amp alternator to support that ONE option. Prior to that, it was the police/taxi vehicles that had the higher output alternators (due to their radios and lights). Therefore, rather than 1990s, you might be better off using items from the middle '70s or so?

On the other hand, if the systems are in good condition, a modern 120amp alternator would really have no reason to be at full output unless it was due to a dead/failing battery situation where full output was needed for a short period of time. Like an ignition coil, an alternator usually puts out only what's needed, rather than full output all of the time.

Back in the 1990s, Fords seemed to be famous for smoking an alternator when it was paired with a dead battery. The voltage regulator put things to "max output" and the internals in teh alternator would smoke due to the spike in output. Lesson? Charge ANY new or dead battery FIRST, rather than relying on the alternator to do it. GM's didn't seem to be as prone to "smoking" the alternator, but it was always recommended to fully charge the battery whenever an alternator was replaced.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
In general, without the on-board computer systems on more vintage non-computered vehicles (engines, brakes, etc.), the real need for higher-power alternators is not really needed. The '76-'79 B-bodies (and probably C-bodies) with the electric heated rear windows had a factory 100amp alternator to support that ONE option. Prior to that, it was the police/taxi vehicles that had the higher output alternators (due to their radios and lights). Therefore, rather than 1990s, you might be better off using items from the middle '70s or so?

On the other hand, if the systems are in good condition, a modern 120amp alternator would really have no reason to be at full output unless it was due to a dead/failing battery situation where full output was needed for a short period of time. Like an ignition coil, an alternator usually puts out only what's needed, rather than full output all of the time.

Back in the 1990s, Fords seemed to be famous for smoking an alternator when it was paired with a dead battery. The voltage regulator put things to "max output" and the internals in teh alternator would smoke due to the spike in output. Lesson? Charge ANY new or dead battery FIRST, rather than relying on the alternator to do it. GM's didn't seem to be as prone to "smoking" the alternator, but it was always recommended to fully charge the battery whenever an alternator was replaced.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

GM alternators would usually not smoke the winding. Early ones were more prone to fusing the internal voltage regulator on units that were so equipped. People would jump start a dead battery and when the jumper cables were removed, the regulator would try to compensate for a dead battery and become fused at full charge. There was a simple work around. If one turned on the lights prior to disconnecting the jumper cables, that would save the regulator. A design change on the regulator circuitry fixed this problem after a couple of years. Cars coming into a shop with a dry battery were usually the result of a fused regulator. This condition would also leave the vehicle with a voltage draw that could run the battery dead when the vehicle was not running.

Dave
 
Unless you are going to run some heavy amp accessories, then I personally wouldn’t go any higher than a 60/65amp alt
As mentioned above, the old factory wiring will not handle a 100 amp alt unless you bypass directly to the battery.
Even then, it could be a gamble.
Another thing is counter electromotive force from a beefy alternator
It will draw horsepower to rotate for not that much gain if you are simply interested in having brighter headlights
Too many amps in some cases and it will burn belts
But it’s your car and you can do as you want to improve it
Let us know which way you go
TJ
 
Last edited:
I run a Powermaster 90 amp on my Newport, but that's not on stock wiring either.
 
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