alternator swap, any conversions out there 66 polara 383

Electrical & Ignition

  1. ian taylor

    ian taylor New Member

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    Hi got a 66 with a 383, engine bay wiring is tatty to say the least, not happy with the reman alternator and solid state regulator i've fitted so was going to fit an 01 camaro alternator as i'm breaking one over here in england, and rewire her. Has anyone done this before and if so are there any pitfalls. Know it's not mopar but the more modern set up and one wire especially will be a boon. . Also the bulkead connectors.....worth keeping or just do without?
    cheers ian
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2017
  2. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

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    Be careful regarding the output of that replacement alternator. The wiring in our old cars won't handle anything too high. If I was you, I would just clean up the stock wiring and connectors, etc. and go with the stock alternator.
     
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  3. ian taylor

    ian taylor New Member

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    am rewiring her as well...so looking for the best way to go?
     
  4. stubs300

    stubs300 Well-Known Member

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    I up graded with all the components from a 73 Dart and threw them in my van, been the best up grade ever! Don't use that little black box they call a regulator, they're a POS! Good Luck
    charging system overview
     
  5. Yatzee

    Yatzee Active Member

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    You can purchase a "period correct" looking alternator with internal voltage regulation these days. I highly recommend them as they are more accurate and responsive to voltage fluctuations. I went to the auto recycler's and purchased a Ford 3G alternator for $60 and it mounted right in place of the old 55 amp unit I had. This alternator is 130 amp and can be configured as a single wire if you wish. The regulator literally plugs in the back of the unit and cost about $18 for an OE to replace it. 5 minute job. On any higher output alternator, the output wire always goes to battery ( or battery terminal on the starter ) with an inline Mega fuse, not directly to the fuse panel. Done this way there is no risk of overloading the existing wiring system. Delco and other manufacturer's including Chrysler have similar internally regulated units an all can be fitted with v pulleys ( single or double) or serpentine.
     
  6. ian taylor

    ian taylor New Member

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    hi, saw those, but with the factory wiring well past it's best, overloading the stock wiring shouldn't be an issue, as the car is in daily use i need a good charging system....will bypass the ammeter for safetys sake.
     
  7. FURYGT

    FURYGT Active Member

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    Why do you feel that you need an alternator that puts out more than 50 - 60 amps? Unless you are running a LOT of high powered amplifiers or something I just don't see the need for the conversion. I have alternators on my C's that have been in use for 20+ years. A good, quality complete alternator rebuild should last for decades. I can personally attest to the solid state voltage regulators for '69 & earlier cars lasting more than a dozen years. In the end it's your car to do what you want with.
     
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  8. ian taylor

    ian taylor New Member

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    its not so much the amps but the whole charging set-up. my first mopar and have found that the wiring quality is typical ie bad. even with a new alternator and solid state regulator i'm not over happy with the charging system, so why keep a bad system when i can replace with a better, cheaper more reliable set-up.
    No one seems to mention the bulkhead connectors? As an aircraft engineer, yes theyre great for servicing but again are they not just bringing more trouble ie joints?
    cheers ian
    ps car is not going to be stock for long, hoping to blow it next year but want it reliable now...
     
  9. Yatzee

    Yatzee Active Member

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    If you were to install a voltage gauge you would quickly see why low power alternators are crap. Turn on your signals and the needle drops and fluctuates as with the brakes. Your entire electrical system is seeing these spikes and there just isn't enough amperage to go around with low power alternators. Hell, even your headlights will be 20% brighter if there was enough amperage. Do it once, do it right and you'll never look back.
     
  10. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat

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    Eliminate the bulkhead connector, send power to amp guage to not have to reinvent the wheel, but keep the majority of amps from going in and out of bulkhead. This and the possibility of poor rebuild is most likely the bulk of your charging problems.
     
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  11. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Active Member

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    I neatly punched out the point in the bulkhead connector where the old main battery wire ran, then ran new wire straight through the hole. I also use rubber grommets non other firewall holes and have eliminated about 5 bulkhead connections. I cleaned off the connectors and used dielectric grease to protect them where low current flow is normal. Ammeter was already bypassed when I got Tilly, but I replaced the old wire and will soon replace the whole fuseblock with a nice NOS Airtek Wells from Rock Auto. I prefer good glass fuses designed by the Society of Fuse Engineers to plastic chinese crap, but you can get fuse boxes complete with blinky-stinky LEDs these daze should you desire.

    The less connections in a conductive run, the better. When possible, run new wire. Do this and you won't be sorry.