Am I forgetting anything for timing gear swap?

[Jon O.]

Here is my list:
Timing cover gasket set. https://www.amazon.com/Cloyes-C-3044-Timing-Sprocket-Single/dp/B000C0AJO0
Timing gears and chain. (Cloyes) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NTP203010
New water pump. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TFW42032
Harmonic balancer puller

Am I forgetting anything? Or does anyone suggest a better version of anything I have? If I want to rebuild the oil pump because it is seeping oil what do I need to do that?

 

[Newport 66]

Black rtv for the intake (go easy on amt applied), new belts and hoses? Coolant, oil and filter, assembly lube for the chain and gears.
Have fun and be patient.....

 

[jct]

You'll need a water pump housing gasket set too

 

[CBODY67]

Black rtv for the intake (go easy on amt applied), new belts and hoses? Coolant, oil and filter, assembly lube for the chain and gears.
Have fun and be patient.....

I'd add "High-Temp" black sealer rather than just "black rtv", put a thin coat on both sides of the paper gaskets, letting it cure, prior to installation. The "high-temp" versions are usually a bit more viscous than the normal rtv products, by observation.

Assembly Lube for the sprockets and chain is always a good idea! Add some of the moly-based paste (cam lobe lube) to the backside of the cam sprocket where it rubs against the block. Then put the normal assembly lube on the sprocket and crank gear teeth. Pouring some over the assembled/installed chain unit before you put the cover back on.

One thing, to me, on a timing set change is to not scrimp on the lube! But for ages, they were put in without much more than a few squirts of oil and they worked pretty good and lasted a good while. But when I did the timing chain on my '77 Camaro, I put oil everywhere and the Cloyes Plus Roller went past 500K miles with no problems. More lube can't hurt.

Might need a big socket to put in the new crank seal in the timing cover.

Might need s steel straight-edge to make sure you "align the dots" correctly. It's somewhat easy to get things off just a bit, which results in "one notch off".

Clicker torque wrench fof the balancer and pulleys.​

Drain pan!

Paint?

Power wash the engine (coin op car wash) to get things cleaned up BEFORE you do the work.

I agree . . . take your time, be patient, notice how things come apart, and strive to have no extra parts left over. Above all . . .

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

Clean the area thoroughly before starting. If the oil pump is leaking, it usually will be from the sealing ring on the oil filter. Check that first after the area has been cleaned up. With everything clean you should be able to see where the leak is coming from. Also check the driver side valve cover as what appears to be a pump leak may be oil running down from the valve cover. Read the FSM for your vehicle so you fully understand what you are about to do. As you disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, be very careful doing that so you do not damage the cooler coil inside the lower radiator tank. Some models have a coupling that can turn as the cooler line fitting is disconnected, if that happens it can fracture the the internal cooler.

Dave

 

[Jon O.]

Clean the area thoroughly before starting. If the oil pump is leaking, it usually will be from the sealing ring on the oil filter. Check that first after the area has been cleaned up. With everything clean you should be able to see where the leak is coming from. Also check the driver side valve cover as what appears to be a pump leak may be oil running down from the valve cover. Read the FSM for your vehicle so you fully understand what you are about to do. As you disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, be very careful doing that so you do not damage the cooler coil inside the lower radiator tank. Some models have a coupling that can turn as the cooler line fitting is disconnected, if that happens it can fracture the the internal cooler.

Dave

The valve covers were replaced a few years ago. I believe the leak is coming from the gasket between the pump, and what the oil filter screws into.

 

[Davea Lux]

The valve covers were replaced a few years ago. I believe the leak is coming from the gasket between the pump, and what the oil filter screws into.

If it has leaked with more than one filter, check the mating surface for the sealing ring for burrs or scratches. If that area is damaged, replace the pump. The oil pump has a gasket on the body and an o-ring on the oil pump input shaft. www.440source.com has both if needed.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

Depending upon how oily/dirty things are, several cans of spray brake cleaner might work rather than the car wash trip. Either way, "natural metal" might happen.

CBODY67

 

[Jon O.]

If it has leaked with more than one filter, check the mating surface for the sealing ring for burrs or scratches. If that area is damaged, replace the pump. The oil pump has a gasket on the body and an o-ring on the oil pump input shaft. www.440source.com has both if needed.

Dave

Yes, hard to explain without a picture. It is the gasket near there, not leaking at the filter.

 

[413]

Please don’t use any assembly lube for this job! Your cloyes roller chain lasted so long because it is a good quality piece.

Soak the chain in motor oil, let it hang to drip off for a day before installing. It will be fine. Use motor oil on all wear surfaces, and the new front seal, a little bit is all you need, just so it’s not dry.

Loc-tite for the cam gear bolt.

Why on earth would you let the RTV cure before assembling it?

The timing cover gasket set comes with water pump,housing to block gaskets. You know, like everything you need for,the job. It do not come with water pump to housing gasket or water neck gasket,

Don’t put the oil “slinger” on backwards, the chain will eat it and send metal in your engine. Bought a car like this.

I like to pressure wash before opening it up. Keeps the crud out of the engine and then you are handling clean parts.

 

[swisherred]

Some rtv requires that it set up some before assembly...but only a few minutes...never fully cured. Hand tighten...then 30 to 40 mins later tighten to spec.

 

[Jon O.]

Alright, revised list:
Timing cover gasket set 34.99
Double roller timing gear and chain 76.91
New water pump 41.99
2 new drive belts 45.02
1 new power steering belt 18.19
3 Premium corrosion resistant coolant 44.97
Water pump gasket set 7.99
High temp- heavy duty black RTV 9.58
Cam lobe grease 5.29
Torque wrench (up to 150' lbs) 28.87
2 True mopar blue paint 41.96
2 brake cleaner 23.96
2 valve cover gaskets 22.49
Oil pump rebuild kit 63.49
Heavy duty- high temp Loc tite 31.49
Rent harmonic balancer puller -
That's $497.19!
The only problem is that if I bought cheap parts, it wouldn't be done right. I'm also not done with my research. The oil pump total rebuild is just for security while I already have it apart. Valve covers are known to leak, and while I have the front of the engine all prettied up, I might as well paint those too. Anything else?

 

[jct]

I didn't go with a double roller timing set, went with a standard cloyes gear set. Car will never be a performer

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Buy the timing set gaskets with the piece of oil pan gasket. The oil pump has a o ring between the cover and housing.

 

[live4theking]

This might be a silly question, but do you have it out of the car for this job?

Buy the timing set gaskets with the piece of oil pan gasket. The oil pump has a o ring between the cover and housing.

Do you have to drop the pan to put the oil pan piece of gasket in?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

This might be a silly question, but do you have it out of the car for this job?

Do you have to drop the pan to put the oil pan piece of gasket in?

No cut old piece off close and tight, slime piece withultra black rtv and bolt the cover back on.

 

[live4theking]

No cut old piece off close and tight, slime piece withultra black rtv and bolt the cover back on.

Thanks Dave.

 

[V Scott Senter]

I'm going through the same procedure on reviving a '69 Newport 383-2BBL manual trans/steering/brakes car w/ 100K miles. Just for kicks I pulled on the crank and noticed about 10-15* of slop in the timing chain before any rotation of the distributor rotor. I'm going to do a compression check soon to see if its already jumped teeth. But I figure its due for a timing chain set. I got the crank, cam gear, timing gasket set w/front main seal, upper/lower radiator hoses, radiator cap, thermostat and new V-belt (only 1! needed) at RockAuto wholesaler clearance prices all for under $30! Only need the timing chain.

My question is: What seal remover and installation tool should I buy to pull and replace the front main seal, assuming its leaking (and will replace even if it isn't). Everything is now cleaned using a hand held steam cleaner and Oil Eater degreaser. Lots of toothbrush and scraping to rid the 50 years of crusty oil from leaking valve cover gaskets! YUK!

 

[Jon O.]

I finally got most of the parts gathered, and I have both the radiator, and the radiator like part for the air conditioner removed. I also have all of the belts, pullies, waterpump, a/c compressor, and all the corresponding front engine parts off.
Does anybody know what size bolt is on the crank shaft pully? And do I need any special tools to remove the pully, or the harmonic balancer (Besides harmonic balancer puller)? I don't have a socket that big and I have to go buy one. An impact wrench has made this job amazingly fast thus far. Thank you all for your help.

 

[Davea Lux]

I finally got most of the parts gathered, and I have both the radiator, and the radiator like part for the air conditioner removed. I also have all of the belts, pullies, waterpump, a/c compressor, and all the corresponding front engine parts off.
Does anybody know what size bolt is on the crank shaft pully? And do I need any special tools to remove the pully, or the harmonic balancer (Besides harmonic balancer puller)? I don't have a socket that big and I have to go buy one. An impact wrench has made this job amazingly fast thus far. Thank you all for your help.

Socket is 1 1/4", and you should not need any other tools besides the puller. Be sure that when you install the upper timing gear that you do not pound it into place as this can move the camshaft to the rear and unseat the soft plug at the rear of the engine. You can start the upper gear by hand and use the center bolt to seat the gear.

Dave