Anyone here have headers on their BB wagons

mag162

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Thinking of removing the HP manifolds and adding Headers.
Wondering what has worked for you guys with 440's
 
Nope. I went through the hassles of leaks, rust and burnt wires in my youth. Since I'm not racing, stock manifolds are just fine for me.
 
tti makes a nice setup. complete from engine to tailpipe. newer style gaskets eliminate leaks and ceramic coating prevents rust for a while. . I have a complete tti setup on my 66 fury wagon. you have a choice between 2.5 or 3 inch if ordering the whole exhaust system. stock manifolds will serve you fine as mentioned by MR C but I just love the looks and sound and extra power from headers. cheers paul
 
Found this thread interesting right away, as I believe my stepfather wants to put headers on his 67 Fury wagon too when he gets the bigger 440 in someday. In my opinion there are a bunch of very good brands of headers out there. Hedman, Hooker, TTI, Doug's, Pype's are just a few examples. It all too depends how much you want to spend, look on Jegs. Hell MAYBE someone on here might have some too. On our cars for example one has Hookers, and one has TTI. A third will have Hedman headers soon. I however would definitely say TTI's are the way to go though, they fit damn near perfect and they sound great too. Although they are a bit on the pricey side.
 
I ran hookers on my 72 town & country. I had them coated and they still cracked and came apart in about 40-45,000 miles.
 
Headers are a pain in the butt. First time you catch one on a railroad track, you really wonder if they are worth the effort.

I watched a video from Nick's Garage once and they did a worked over, stroked 383 with 440 source heads and they came up with ~20 HP and ~20 ft/lb torque gain. Decent gain, but they didn't show what the lower RPM (street use) gains/losses would be. It was also run with no mufflers, so (IMHO) that might make the difference less.

So.. Is it worth the HP gain at high RPM? Street car? I don't think so. Race car? Yes.

I've run headers and then switched to manifolds on my A12 Roadrunner. The headers drove me nuts and after changing a starter I decided to take them off. The car ran just as fast (seat of the pants dyno) with the manifolds as it did with the headers and quite frankly, I never had to worry about hard to change spark plugs, burnt wires and leaks.

IMHO, I was always happier with cars I didn't have headers on. As I said, catching a railroad track a time or two (seen a lot of other guys do it too) really takes the fun out. I really think that "on the street" the manifolds don't give up much to the headers. I also think that on the low end, the manifolds perform as well or even better in the low RPM range where a street car is used.

Your choice though... That's my opinion and when I've brought up these facts as I see it, I've been called a "purist". You have to weigh the gains versus the effort and $$ involved.
 
The tti headers fit up under the car very nicely on my '66 Polara, I'd use them again if I wanted headers on another C body.
 
Has to be a personal choice. There are pros and cons of both, everyone is bias toward their personal preference.
Objectively headers work at all rpms, don't believe the wives tales that they only work at high rpms. 2.25" primary tubes sure but smaller tubes no, they work on cooling the exhaust pulse before dumping it into a larger pipe with the other pulses, so that no exhaust pulse is backing up the exhaust from the cylinder next to it. At low rpm they will give you fuel mileage, MPG equals efficiency, efficiency equals power.
 
Well, I installed a set of TTI headers on my 70 Plymouth Suburban to go with my previously installed 3" TTI exhaust system. I did it outside, on jackstands and with hand tools. The exhaust system hung lower with C body HP manifolds on it than it does with the TTI Headers installed. Unlike the B/RB unifit thin hooker headers#5113, TTI makes a different header for the B and RB deck heights. My car doesn't sit low enough to hit train tracks or speed bumps or gas station entrance ramps. I will admit that the starter replacement can be 'tricky' especially if you have factory wiring and can't pre install the cables first, but how often are we changing mini starters these days?

My plans (if I keep my wagon) is to build a bigger stroker engine that will make full use of the TTI exhaust system. With the current prices escalating on 50 year old CBody HP manifolds (I've seen them sell for upwards of $450) TTI seemed reasonable.

I have yet to see a CURRENTLY manufactured header ( the Schumacher tri-y has been out of stock for the past 3 years) that actually fits the 65-73 C-Body platform without MAJOR modifications besides the TTI/Hookers mentioned.

A lot of us have been dealing with Cbodies before they were cool and we remember getting full exhaust systems with mufflers and tailpipes installed for $250. Unfortunately, those days are gone and steel/metal prices are much higher. Do you need that much exhaust? Probably not. Then again, we don't own these old cars (junky money magnets in my case) because we 'need' them.

*Pictures: Blue Wagon TTI header install. Black Fury custom headers built in 1998 before TTI was available for Cbodies.

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I'll buy tti headers and exhaust kits without question, they are the best out there for the money. I have both 2.5" and 3" systems, and will be getting another 3" kit for my Dart, I got used to headers a decade ago. If my cheapo fix doesn't work, I'll get another 2.5" kit for my '68 Monaco.
 
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