Anyone take a 60 Fury dash apart?

[Fast Eddie B]

I’m trying to fix the dash lights of which 0 are working. It was a nightmare to replace the headlight switch and even trying to find all the lights from below will be near impossible.

Anyone have any ideas on taking pieces off to get in behind?

I’m guessing the main slice is bad but can see it yet.

 

[bluefury361]

I took my 61 dash, (very similar), Out of the car with the harness attached. Repaired and replaced everything. I have yet to reinstall it though. You need a second set of hands for that.
Take pictures of everything.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

How did you take it out? Start at the top or the bottom? Does the whole pod come out?

 

[goodneighbour]

I dont know what's up with mine, they are powered thru the key switch...key on, dashlites on! Dont know, previous owner must have done it and I ain't messing with it. Here is a couple of pics that may help you along

 

[Fast Eddie B]

I like that. One big piece. looks like you drop the steering column and unbolt it at either end. One could then reach down from the top and disco everything

I did try the ignition on thing to see if they come on, but no dice. Then I got thinking last night.... Maybe after 59 years all the dash bulbs are just dead!

I had pulled one out and tested it but it didn’t work. Then i tested a new bulb to test my test method and that did not work! Then I began to loose my mind. I couldn’t get any light tested to work. I tried three or four new builds. I put the bulb on the negative post, ran a lead from the bulb body to the positive post and I could not get a single new or old bulb to light up, but my multimeter read 12.5v. How on earth can a light not work?

So after I figure out how to test a bulb, i will check a few more from the dash. It may be they are all burnt out.

But I do have some ideas now about restoring the dash seeing your pic. Thanks.

 

[goodneighbour]

Their is screws under the trim at the windshield, so you do have to remove a bit of trim to get it out.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

‘Nuff said.

 

[goodneighbour]

Where was the problem, incase I have issues?

 

[Fast Eddie B]

Sort of. When they didn’t work, originally I assumed the reostat was bad and bit the bullet on a new $250 switch.

It was a nightmare swapping it out but I got it done. Not much room up there or toom on the loom. When I first pulled the new switch on - no lights! None. Of any kind. Played with it. Nothing. Checked all my wiring. Double checked against the schematic. Bore scoped it to make sure nothing loose. All good.

Tried switch again. Headlights flickered. Worked the switch hard. Before long all lights on including the dome lamp came in reliably. Still no dash lights.

Test the ignition switch. Didn’t help. Pulled a few bulbs I could reach. Not them. Started looking for a break from the switch to the splitter. Didn’t look possible. Factory wiring all still intact.

Just before pulling the whole dash out looking for a break, I thought I would try and get a power probe on the connector coming out of the switch and power the lights manually. Jammed my head up there, got the probe in. Boom. Lights came on. Ergo problem had to be the switch.

Bench tested the old switch. It was bad at the reostat. So it was bad and I started to figured out where to test the new switch in the car if I could get to it. Just before pulling the new switch back out to test it, I worked it super hard on the reostat and they started to flicker. They would come on and off. Eventually they started to come on reliably.

Fixed.

What would I do again? Bench test switch completely - even though it was brand new - and clean all contacts before installing.

Lesson learned. Got about 2 hours on replacing a headlamp switch.