Anyone use a journal sleeve on an axle journal?

Gerald Morris

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I nicked the journal while replacing the axle or "drive shaft" bearings 4+ yrs ago, and now, sure as **** see oil and grease leaking into the brake drum on that side of the rear end. It occurred to me that sleeving that journal sure would be preferable to buying 1 or 2 axles, and sure enough, there are some good looking industrial sleeves from Timken and the UK for the job.

99162 Hardened Stainless Sturdi Sleeve for Shafts 1.622-1.628 inch Simply Bearings Ltd

Since I can't conveniently just flip that axle shaft out and put my caliper on the journal, I've had to consult documents, such as they are. Have I read correctly that the journal diameter is 1.62 inches for the 30 spline shaft? Have any of you ever sleeved an axle journal? I wouldn't care to do such to a crankshaft journal, mind you, but the axle shaft, while heavily enough loaded, isn't in the same league of pressures.

It occurs to me that this leak may arise from pressure unrelieved if the vent is plugged. I'll certainly check this first. Bearing adjustment also may help, as its been 4 yrs after all. Still, that glaring memory of the nicked journal bugs me....

What are your thoughts? I value them, sometimes highly enough to spend our money accordingly even.

(P.S.) I can't do pics until I put Tilly in surgery for this. For the weekend, and near future, its going to be "top up the damned gear oil and pray."
 
These?

https://1ja0pa1tvpl63v04fj2l0oby-wp...020/02/National-Indust-Seals-Catalog_7707.pdf

5454F321-C346-4E6E-BA29-CB6EC8E7A8A1.jpeg
 
I remember installing axle bearing kits into my 84 Crown Vic that used this similar type of sleeve fitted onto the axle shaft.
It actually re-positioned the location of the seal by about 3/16" so the seal touched another.
The new bearing or seal if it failed was an of the shelf seal so it would be easy to replace.
Saved a bunch of money replacing the axles if they were beat up too badly.
 
If the reason for the sleeve is a worn/degraded bearing surface, then the sleeve might work IF all of the diameters are correct. OD of the journal and ID of the sleeve so that a sleeve would work without any machining.

If the reason is only the leak, it might be due to a wear groove on the journal from the old lip seal's contact with the area, in which the seal with the re-located lip seal contact area moved slightly (as mentioned) would work (as some aftermarket brands have been moving that contact area around for a good while now).

CBODY67
 

That's one source. I downloaded that catalogue last night. I like the one's from the UK or the SKF one's I saw too, though the latter are pricey! (Grainger is the overhead I suspect.) The Burning Question of the Moment is: is that journal diameter 1.62 inches nominal? I saw a Mopar catalogue reference suggesting as much, but like to double and triple check such references before committing to buy, ship, pull the axle, then have it come up WRONG!
 
You didn't specify but I'm assuming you're referring to an 8-3/4" axle. They don't have a bearing surface on the axle housing like some later cars but rather a machined seal surface on axle itself which I believe you're referring to. This contacts the inner seal which is responsible for keeping the gear lube from passing through to the pressed on bearing and brake drum. If the nick isn't severe, you can simply dress it down, buy a new seal & insert it to a depth that doesn't contact the nick. I've had good success doing it this way, it works well also with pinion seals where the yoke surface is grooved. If you tried to install a sleeve over the axle seal surface then the increased diameter would require some sort of non-standard inner seal to compensate.
 
If the reason for the sleeve is a worn/degraded bearing surface, then the sleeve might work IF all of the diameters are correct. OD of the journal and ID of the sleeve so that a sleeve would work without any machining.

That IF, sums up my hesitation to buy until damned sure of the OD of the journal. Axles aren't cheap, but a certain point approaches when one might as well get one if too much effort goes into fixing the old one. Throwing down $17 for a sleeve, + ~35 for seals & such won't be bad.
If the reason is only the leak, it might be due to a wear groove on the journal from the old lip seal's contact with the area, in which the seal with the re-located lip seal contact area moved slightly (as mentioned) would work (as some aftermarket brands have been moving that contact area around for a good while now).
CBODY67

I actually moved the seal a bit in hope of avoiding that nick (grinder slipped when then 1 yr old toddled over to "help Daddy.") and I placed a SECOND inner seal downtube in case the 1st got shredded. This held the oil well for at least a couple years, but my discovery 2 weeks ago didn't much surprise me. I figure I'd best attend to this ASAP to prevent further damage to the bearing. I might just get another bearing to be ready. At least I now have a good stock of Lubriplate bearing grease for the job.
 
You didn't specify but I'm assuming you're referring to an 8-3/4" axle. They don't have a bearing surface on the axle housing like some later cars but rather a machined seal surface on axle itself which I believe you're referring to. This contacts the inner seal which is responsible for keeping the gear lube from passing through to the pressed on bearing and brake drum. If the nick isn't severe, you can simply dress it down, buy a new seal & insert it to a depth that doesn't contact the nick. I've had good success doing it this way, it works well also with pinion seals where the yoke surface is grooved. If you tried to install a sleeve over the axle seal surface then the increased diameter would require some sort of non-standard inner seal to compensate.

I tried pressing the seal into the tube beyond where the nick was, did so. Placed a second seal behind it. This apprently worked for a couple years, but this last one, bad **** started happening I wot.
 
I used one to fix the seal surface on a B-body Dana 60 axle over 20 years ago and it's still doing good today residing in my brother's '64 Dodge 440.
 
Any Speedi type sleeve you press onto the axle will require a seal with a corresponding increase in ID to accommodate the new larger OD of the sleeve.

Stemco makes them for big truck applications but I don't know how small they go.

Kevin
 
Any Speedi type sleeve you press onto the axle will require a seal with a corresponding increase in ID to accommodate the new larger OD of the sleeve.

Stemco makes them for big truck applications but I don't know how small they go.

Kevin

I've found a proper dimension sleeve, and the extra few 1/1000s of an inch will still permit the stock seal. I MIGHT, before buying a sleeve, just get one of these fancier seals designed for accommodating problem shafts. After all, there abounds all manner of EXCELLENT OLD MACHINES on this planet built 30-100 yrs ago, still in use, in part because the modern corporate beancounters, hired by degenerate crapitalist management, are hired to squeeze life from all "resources" regardless of whether they circulate blood and lymph, or oil and glycols to keep functioning.

I probably WILL sleeve this axle, and see if it holds its seal longer than 3 yrs. Or, IFF I find an axle i decent shape, I may just get that.
 
I've found a proper dimension sleeve, and the extra few 1/1000s of an inch will still permit the stock seal. I MIGHT, before buying a sleeve, just get one of these fancier seals designed for accommodating problem shafts. After all, there abounds all manner of EXCELLENT OLD MACHINES on this planet built 30-100 yrs ago, still in use, in part because the modern corporate beancounters, hired by degenerate crapitalist management, are hired to squeeze life from all "resources" regardless of whether they circulate blood and lymph, or oil and glycols to keep functioning.

I probably WILL sleeve this axle, and see if it holds its seal longer than 3 yrs. Or, IFF I find an axle i decent shape, I may just get that.
You are probably going to be time, money and frustration ahead by finding another axle.
 
or just weld a bead on it and turn it down---------its been done alot-----original stroker cranks were welded up on one side then offset ground----a weld in that tiny mark is insignifant......
 
or just weld a bead on it and turn it down---------its been done alot-----original stroker cranks were welded up on one side then offset ground----a weld in that tiny mark is insignifant......

Was wondering about this approach. Good to know.
 
You are probably going to be time, money and frustration ahead by finding another axle.

THAT has occurred to me, which is why I'd rather patch this one. If one falls into my lap, then maybe, but I'm not apt to exert myself in this direction....
 
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