Anyone using a fan clutch??

[67440NewYorker]

So ive been trying to improve my cooling system. I have a fan and clutch off of a 73 440 and fan clutch itself is pretty much touching my radiator. Been doing some research and there is the Jag style clutch. And also by what i see Hayden now offers a part #2947 fan clutch which is smaller and seems for us guys running into clearance issues. Just wondering if anyone is running this clutch or not.

 

[3C's & a D?]

If your engine originally had a simple fan you may need to remove the spacer between the water pump and fan in order to accommodate a clutch fan.

 

[67440NewYorker]

Yup i took it off. The original fan with spacer measured somthing like 2.75inches and my the fan clutch i had measured somthing like 3.75inches. I cant remember exact measurements but i tried to fit the clutch anyways and its into the radiator. Ill measure when i get back in the garage

 

[3C's & a D?]

So the clutch fan is out of a '73 440, shall I assume that it's going into a 67 New Yorker with of course a 440? If so that could be the problem, I believe the fuselage models gained a little length over their slab sided predecessors. That being said, what are the cooling issues you are having? Simply changing to a clutch fan won't do anything.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Should have mentioned as well, unless it was never or rarely used, chances are, at 45 years old, it's no good.

 

[67440NewYorker]

The car keeps getting hot after driving into town and back and ive already changed my t-stat (running a 180degree) So i sent the radiator out to get checked out, putting new hoses on, and wanna update to fan clutch and a shroud.

 

[CBODY67]

You might need to knock out the freeze plugs in the block and do a "flush" of the block to get the accumulations out of the water passages in the block. The sediment will usually be greatest on the rear cylinders (as they are lower than the front cylinders). It's a messy job, but more necessary on older vehicles than many might suspect.

The fan clutch will need to match the body, plus the engine. You can download the Hayden catalog and check the dimensions of the "shaft" length for what you need. The fan clutch will make the engine run quieter, after it kicks out upon start-up. Just make sure you have a correct 7-blade fan for your application, too.

Just stay away from a stainless steel flex fan!

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

You might need to knock out the freeze plugs in the block and do a "flush" of the block to get the accumulations out of the water passages in the block. The sediment will usually be greatest on the rear cylinders (as they are lower than the front cylinders). It's a messy job, but more necessary on older vehicles than many might suspect.

The fan clutch will need to match the body, plus the engine. You can download the Hayden catalog and check the dimensions of the "shaft" length for what you need. The fan clutch will make the engine run quieter, after it kicks out upon start-up. Just make sure you have a correct 7-blade fan for your application, too.

Just stay away from a stainless steel flex fan!

CBODY67

WISE WORDS! I advise any and all with hot running motors to take them. Those back expansion plugs likely have all sorts of crap behind them. I replaced some of mine last year and found plenty crap down there. Will likely do the back pair this fall, AND the passenger side front also. I hose out that water jacket but GOOD when I do these now.

Big 10-4 on a 7 blade Mopar fan for the clutch. Hayden makes good ones. When I first changed the 6 blade straight fan for a 7 blade w the clutch, I too had blades just brushing the radiator when I would brake. I purchased fan mounting bolts 1/4" longer than those supplied w the clutch, used 4 nuts which I put in place between the clutch and fan, setting it BACK ~ 5 or 6 mm from the radiator. Haven't heard the blades brush the radiator since then. Likewise, engine temperature topped out at 200 F during the hottest weather this summer past, and that was with a failing tranny slipping and heating things up quite a lot.

 

[BigblueC]

Since you guys are talking about flushing/cleaning your water jackets has anyone tried evapo-rust thermocure?
Summit Racing® EVAPO-RUST THERMOCURE SUM-TC001

 

[Gerald Morris]

Don't

Since you guys are talking about flushing/cleaning your water jackets has anyone tried evapo-rust thermocure?
Summit Racing® EVAPO-RUST THERMOCURE SUM-TC001

I don't know about that stuff, but Tide detergent does the same thing quite nicely for a fraction of the cost. Lime scale is the greatest hazard from tap crap out here. I now use pure distilled water, and Tilly doesn't get over 195 F even in traffic. The hottest she ever got with me was 210 F on a 110 F summer day with me driving in heavy traffic for over an hour. I recall a number of flush products using strong acetic acid concentrations to dissolve ferrous and ferric oxide deposits. I tried one last year. The Tide worked better.

 

[CBODY67]

When using "flush" products, unless you loop the heater hoses so the mixture stays in the engine block, you might also end up needing a new hater core, but the radiator will always be "at risk" too.

If you knock out the rear core plugs and they appear thinner in the middle, the other ones are probably similar, so plan on doing them all and then be done with it. Don't forget about the cylinder heads, too.

Once all of this is done and flushed clean, be sure to put fresh coolant into the system and maintain it correctly. Some of the newer OEM coolants have chemicals which "seal" the metal in the system to prevent/better diminish corrosion, BUT they have to be compatible with an "open" system rather than the current OEM "closed" system (coolant recovery system, some pressurized). Might put the new coolant mixture in, then run it a month or so, then drain/replace it so that any residual "stuff" can be completely flushed out, for good measure.

CBODY67