Are they rollers or bushings? Hood torsion bars 66/300

Fredo

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Well just as I'm getting close to daily driver another probelm popped up.
The left side hood hinge is shot, Also the roller or the bushing on the torsion bar where it rides on the hinge is not looking too good. The weird thing is there was no warning. The hood worked great and in a mater of three opening and closings it took the final ride. For now I can not close the hood all the way without putting a kink in the sheet metal.
I'm figuring I'll need new or a good set of used hinges (might as well do both sides) and see if I can replace the bushings on the torsion bars. Does anyone know if they are available or know of a fix? Any advice or experience will be greatly appreciated.
I have seen the videos of torsion bar removal, it looks scary but I'll get 5 or 6 buddies to hold on while I pry, pull and beat it into place.
 

CBODY67

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What failed on your etxisting hinges and/or hood torsion bars? Just curious.

I believe the end bushings are a slip-on item with outside serrations on them, to match similar serrations on the hinge body? Never had any reason to replace or be concerned with them on our '66 Newport Town Sedan, other than they made noise . . . which made the sliding square blocks on the '74 Chryslers a major improvement, to me.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

WissaMan

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They are rollers, so ideally they should only be lubricated on their inner surface. But that's hard to do and it's not uncommon to see the surface they ride on slathered with grease and the rollers just sliding on it and not turning.
 

CBODY67

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The ones on our '66 Newport always made a noise when the hood was openned or closed. I put some lube on then to hopefully make then work smoother, but they just slid on the serrations. End of THAT bright idea! I took that noise to be "part of the breed".

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

WOT440

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Start by putting a few drops of oil on the rollers. Kroil works best, or WD40 just to get them moving then work them slowly until they are freed up. Oil the INSIDE of the roller as you want the outside to grip and roll on the hinge...not slide. A few drops of Kroil will keep them moving. Oil the hood latch and the door hinges while you're at it. Do this each time you change your oil, makes it easy to remember when it was done last.
AEROKROIL 8 OZ CAN | Aircraft Spruce
 

Fredo

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It looks like the problem isn't the torsion bar after all, but the hinge. It is bent badly so it looks like a replacement is in order. I found a vendor that will sell me a pair of good ones. Mary B park has a set for me. Now I have to get brave enough to remove the torsion bars.
I looked for vids on the YouTube and other interweb areas on how to with zero luck
 

mopar440

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It looks like the problem isn't the torsion bar after all, but the hinge. It is bent badly so it looks like a replacement is in order. I found a vendor that will sell me a pair of good ones. Mary B park has a set for me. Now I have to get brave enough to remove the torsion bars.
I looked for vids on the YouTube and other interweb areas on how to with zero luck
It is DANGEROUS.. i had to use a heavy tie strap tied to the doorhandle, and crank it back to remove from the hood. Maybe someone will chime in with the right way to do it
 

Fredo

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RTFSM! You do have one don't you?
I have 2, and I checked them both. However neither of them have any real world experience or knowledge of what problems may arise. No notes from folks on this board that have done it and know exactly what can go wrong. No real help, a lot like your reply to my post about this issue.
 

WOT440

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When I did mine, the windshield was out and I used a ratcheting strap around the 'A' pillar. Did you research the FSM? Can you share an image of your damaged hinge?
 

CBODY67

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Perhaps the deck lid torsion bar removal procedure might be similar and more documented?
 

stubs300

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I have 2, and I checked them both. However neither of them have any real world experience or knowledge of what problems may arise. No notes from folks on this board that have done it and know exactly what can go wrong. No real help, a lot like your reply to my post about this issue.

Well then, that should tell you just how many times this problem has cropped it's head on people, just like your previous owner's neglect to properly maintain said problem you're having! Have you ever thought of that?
 

68PK21 440.6bbl

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I guess we are all psychic here now and know what and which type of Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge hood hinge there are (pictures, pictures, pictures)...
On my 68 Fury I just held up the hood with a skyhook, vicegripped the rod, strong armed it out of the track to relieve the tension (Oh the paint!)
Undid the rear bolts, loosened front bolts, relaxed skyhook till front of hood was down to grill/radiator support, (use moving blankets if you care to protect anything),
Remove front bolts, go to front of hood and with working gloves on grab both sides of hood bring it to ya and swing it over to a safe wall area that you can lean it upon.
Make sure you have plenty of clean room to work beforehand as you don't want to be juggling it around or tripping over something. I did it many times as a 6' tall stringbean teen, YMMV.


.
 

LocuMob

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As @68PK21 440.6bbl said in a round about way, it's easier with the hood off, if possible. I did that with the last parts car, and used a pry bar on the rod, as I gently pulled the hinge towards the fender. Didn't take much at all, and the rod popped out with almost no tension on it. The other side was just as easy.
 

Mr C

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What failed on your etxisting hinges and/or hood torsion bars? Just curious.

I believe the end bushings are a slip-on item with outside serrations on them, to match similar serrations on the hinge body? Never had any reason to replace or be concerned with them on our '66 Newport Town Sedan, other than they made noise . . . which made the sliding square blocks on the '74 Chryslers a major improvement, to me.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
In 74 they were still splined metal rollers. In 75 they went to the plastic slider blocks.
 
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