Are valve plates available for 71 ac compressor

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Was wondering if i can get valve plates for a 71 dodge ac compresor vtwin reciprocating or just get the remanned compressor for 180 bucks
 
Was wondering if i can get valve plates for a 71 dodge ac compresor vtwin reciprocating or just get the remanned compressor for 180 bucks

You will probably be farther ahead to just buy the reman compressor. The valve plates are obviously still available because 4 seasons and others can still rebuild the compressor. Usually if a valve plate fails it is because either the expansion valve or the EPR valve has failed. This type of failure returns liquid refrigerant back into the compressor bores and beats the valve plate to death. Often if this condition was bad enough to break a valve plate there is damage to the compressor rod and/or piston assemblies as well. Valve plates do sometimes just wear out, but that is usually on very high hour compressors that probably are about worn out anyway. Part number for the valve plates is #2275204 and #2275205. By the time you buy the valve plates and all the compressor gaskets, you will probably have at least $100 in that again, on a well used compressor.

Dave
 
Do your research on the remans first.

That's for damn sure. Do they really reman the thing, or just repaint it? Here's what I found on mine:

1. No check ball and spring for the oil pump. This would have smoked the compressor in short order....no oil pumping action. I sourced the parts and installed, see pic. [Note: Compressors that are newer (like 1972 or 73, maybe?) didn't use this check and spring.]

IMG_0404.JPG


Here's a compressor that DOES NOT use the ball and spring. See the red dot. This unit was on my car when I bought it and it had a 4 Seasons sticker on it. I chose to replace with a new one.

IMG_1294.JPG


2. Baked-on crud in the sump. Not fatal, but questionable and annoying.

3. A short bolt from something was in one of the long bolt mounting holes, held in place by the lovely black paint. (It really is a nice paint job!)

4. Gas seal (on crankshaft behind clutch) leaked from minute one, never "broke in" and sealed. Lost that R12 charge. Had to change it out. Santech PN# MT2034 from Auto Zone. $8. Green stuff is dye I added to the oil during my own "reman".

IMG_1481.JPG
 
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