Axle Bearings

[MightyMats]

Well I finally spent some serious time rewiring the entire engine bay of my 67 Chrysler 300 last week. I eliminated the Ammeter in the dash and eliminated the old alternator wiring sending 14volts back through everything. I wired some 8 gauge wire directly from the alternator to the positive on the starter solenoid and removed all stock electrical tape from the harness. Its all zip tied right now as i wait for my split loom to come in.

Drove it around for a bit, lit the tires up and had some fun. I got in the car this morning to drive it to work and I hear a loud "clunk" "clunk" "clunk" "clunk," coming from the driver side rear axle.

I am thinking with my shenanigans I might have screwed up something, or just made an existing problem worse. I've been fiddling with this car since I bought it six months ago bringing it up to speed and fixing things that just haven't been address in decades.

Who do you guys buy your axle bearings from? I think this is the next thing i will replace and then all the suspension bushings. Are Timken bearings still a great quality bearing? I heard they are made in China now but I cannot confirm that.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Well I finally spent some serious time rewiring the entire engine bay of my 67 Chrysler 300 last week. I eliminated the Ammeter in the dash and eliminated the old alternator wiring sending 14volts back through everything. I wired some 8 gauge wire directly from the alternator to the positive on the starter solenoid and removed all stock electrical tape from the harness. Its all zip tied right now as i wait for my split loom to come in.

Drove it around for a bit, lit the tires up and had some fun. I got in the car this morning to drive it to work and I hear a loud "clunk" "clunk" "clunk" "clunk," coming from the driver side rear axle.

I am thinking with my shenanigans I might have screwed up something, or just made an existing problem worse. I've been fiddling with this car since I bought it six months ago bringing it up to speed and fixing things that just haven't been address in decades.

Who do you guys buy your axle bearings from? I think this is the next thing i will replace and then all the suspension bushings. Are Timken bearings still a great quality bearing? I heard they are made in China now but I cannot confirm that.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Their H.Q. iz still listed az North Canton, OH. I personally have hauled their product out of Sandusky and Tiffin, Oh. plants. but it's been ah few yearz. Go to your local Napa store and have them pull one of their bearings off the shelf for your '67 inner or outer and you'll know. Jer

 

[Zymurgy]

I just replaced the bearings on my 66 300. I only found good Timken bearings at Rock Auto and they were half the price of the now Chinese bearing at NAPA.

I don't know you experience in this area but here is a link of mine which you may find helpful. Rear bearing going bad?

 

[Davea Lux]

If you have had the rear axles out, there is an adjusting screw on the right axle to take up end play. The FSM gives detailed instructions on how to do this. Usually when there is clunking it is because the end play is improperly adjusted and the axles which butt against each other are rebounding to produce the clunk. This can also happen if the bearings have excessive wear.

Auto Zone and other sub standard auto parts sell a lot of bearings with Timken numbers, usually they are not Timken bearings, but crap made in China. Napa and most other first line auto parts still have Timken catalogues (You need to ask for them as most parts guys always try to sell what ever is cheaper) and can supply quality bearings. As noted above Rock Auto is another source of supply.
www.mcguirebearing.com also is a supplier of quality bearings

Dave

 

[3C's & a D?]

I just replaced the bearings on my 66 300. I only found good Timken bearings at Rock Auto and they were half the price of the now Chinese bearing at NAPA.

I don't know you experience in this area but here is a link of mine which you may find helpful. Rear bearing going bad?

Really? That doesn't make sense, unless of course it's in the name of MAGA. I just did mine last summer, my parts guy thought they were going to be Timkens, but when they showed up, they were Chinese equivalents. We both agreed they looked, felt and sounded good, so I picked them up for 50$ each Canadian. He said he'd take them back if I could find others. I managed to find Timkens at another shop, they were 130$ each Canadian, so I installed the cheaper ones. I'm hoping I don't regret that decision.

 

[Zymurgy]

Really? That doesn't make sense, unless of course it's in the name of MAGA. I just did mine last summer, my parts guy thought they were going to be Timkens, but when they showed up, they were Chinese equivalents. We both agreed they looked, felt and sounded good, so I picked them up for 50$ each Canadian. He said he'd take them back if I could find others. I managed to find Timkens at another shop, they were 130$ each Canadian, so I installed the cheaper ones. I'm hoping I don't regret that decision.

I heard some crazy numbers for these bearing. I got make in USA Timken for $26 and change USD from Rock Auto. No brainer.

 

[3C's & a D?]

I heard some crazy numbers for these bearing. I got make in USA Timken for $26 and change USD from Rock Auto. No brainer.

Lucky! Rock Auto seems to be the place to go. At the time I was bitching about this to one of my friends who is a car guy (not our kind of car guy, but does his own work) and he had ordered online, a bearing kit for his five year old lexus that just happened to show up that day. They were Timkens! I couldn't believe it.

 

[Jon O.]

Well I finally spent some serious time rewiring the entire engine bay of my 67 Chrysler 300 last week. I eliminated the Ammeter in the dash and eliminated the old alternator wiring sending 14volts back through everything. I wired some 8 gauge wire directly from the alternator to the positive on the starter solenoid and removed all stock electrical tape from the harness. Its all zip tied right now as i wait for my split loom to come in.

Drove it around for a bit, lit the tires up and had some fun. I got in the car this morning to drive it to work and I hear a loud "clunk" "clunk" "clunk" "clunk," coming from the driver side rear axle.

I am thinking with my shenanigans I might have screwed up something, or just made an existing problem worse. I've been fiddling with this car since I bought it six months ago bringing it up to speed and fixing things that just haven't been address in decades.

Who do you guys buy your axle bearings from? I think this is the next thing i will replace and then all the suspension bushings. Are Timken bearings still a great quality bearing? I heard they are made in China now but I cannot confirm that.

Thanks,
Tyler

Big piece of advice, don't use a torch to cut them off. Use a dremel, or you may kill someone in the future.

 

[CBODY67]

When a rear axle bearing on our '66 Newport needed replacement, back when the car was newer, it didn't go "clunk, clunk", it went "rump-rump-rump" at 55mph. If you swayed the car from side to side, it would get quiet when the bad bearing had little load on it, louder when it had more load on it, which was how it was identified.

I would associate "clunk" with something else than a rear axle bearing. End result, put the car on a lift, rotate the rear tires, and listen/feel as you turn the wheels manually. Also check the u-joints for slop/slack/play while the car is elevated. Bad thing is that you'll need to remove the carrier to look at the axle gears and side bearings, BUT you might end up doing just that.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

The FSM shows the removal of the rear axle bearings by taking the bearing apart, then pressing the remnants off of the axle shaft with a press. Installed the same way, with appropriate holding fixtures around the bearing. NOT just a simple operation.

CBODY67

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Well I finally spent some serious time rewiring the entire engine bay of my 67 Chrysler 300 last week. I eliminated the Ammeter in the dash and eliminated the old alternator wiring sending 14volts back through everything. I wired some 8 gauge wire directly from the alternator to the positive on the starter solenoid and removed all stock electrical tape from the harness. Its all zip tied right now as i wait for my split loom to come in.

Drove it around for a bit, lit the tires up and had some fun. I got in the car this morning to drive it to work and I hear a loud "clunk" "clunk" "clunk" "clunk," coming from the driver side rear axle.

I am thinking with my shenanigans I might have screwed up something, or just made an existing problem worse. I've been fiddling with this car since I bought it six months ago bringing it up to speed and fixing things that just haven't been address in decades.

Who do you guys buy your axle bearings from? I think this is the next thing i will replace and then all the suspension bushings. Are Timken bearings still a great quality bearing? I heard they are made in China now but I cannot confirm that.

Thanks,
Tyler

Wrong, wrong, wrong Timkens are made all over Ohio. I have personally hauled scrap into their plant in Canton to make more bearings.
Auto Zone has a whole index drawers full of Timken bearings, races, and full sets. I know they sell some Chinese junk bearings for specific cars but if you can walk in with a Timken bearing number the can/will have it.
Anbody who is paying $130 for a bearing set is just lazy. Give me 2 weeks lead time I'll sell them to you for $99.99.
Timken is very proud of the fact that they are not just repackaging Chinese crap like SKF and National.
Support companies like these, they have dumped lots of money into plants in Oh. To update, and they are not much of any more $$$.
Also agree that cluncking is not bearings. Bad bearings sound like a cupped tread snow tire

 

[bnz84]

A month ago had these installed (shop with press) with new gear set. And guess what - about $130 Mopar's performance version of green bearings. And all the controversy that comes with them. I'm satisfied with quality and optimistic they will last past my ownership.

Mopar Performance Rear Axle Bearing Sets P5249444

 

[twostick]

For all things diff, suspension and brake related, one stop shopping, Dr Diff.

$105 Timken, both sides with all the seals gaskets etc. $65 for Precision brand.

Mopar Set 7 (A7) Tapered Axle Bearing Package

Kevin

 

[twostick]

A month ago had these installed (shop with press) with new gear set. And guess what - about $130 Mopar's performance version of green bearings. And all the controversy that comes with them. I'm satisfied with quality and optimistic they will last past my ownership.

Mopar Performance Rear Axle Bearing Sets P5249444

Everybody loses their minds about Green bearings. Ford Motor Company seems to sleep OK at night. Sealed bearings OEM on every 9" I've ever had the axles out of.

Kevin

 

[3C's & a D?]

Everybody loses their minds about Green bearings. Ford Motor Company seems to sleep OK at night. Sealed bearings OEM on every 9" I've ever had the axles out of.

Kevin

I considered going the green bearing route, and while doing some basic research, read that the first version had a design flaw which made them prone to failure.

 

[CBODY67]

"Sealed" bearings aren't really sealed. Or as good as it might be suspected.

On our '69 Chevy pickup, with the two-piece driveshaft and center carrier bearing, it uses two deflectors, one on the front and one on the rear, to shield the bearing from direct moisture and such. At one bearing change (after a few years of service), the dealership "tech" claimed the deflectors weren't needed as "it's a sealed bearing". Made sense to me . . . UNTIL we had to replace that bearing one year later. The mechanic took the failed bearing and pried the plastic "seals" off one side. It was fully of sand, from driving in the fields at the farm. New deflectors were ordered, a new bearing was installed, end of problem. So much for "sealed" bearings, to me.

CBODY67

 

[MightyMats]

For all things diff, suspension and brake related, one stop shopping, Dr Diff.

$105 Timken, both sides with all the seals gaskets etc. $65 for Precision brand.

Mopar Set 7 (A7) Tapered Axle Bearing Package

Kevin

I bought the bearing from these guys. I also went ahead about bought a rebuild kit for the drum brakes while I'm at it. I am not to sure what I broke in the rear end and I don't know when the last time everything was gone through so i'm just going to replace everything. I think something may have also broken in the drum itself. I was doing burnouts when I broke whatever I broke so there is a good chance it could be something to do with the drums. But there is only one was to find out.

I also purchased some new leaf springs from ESPO. $320 for two leaf packs plus shipping was a pretty good deal I thought so I went ahead and purchased those. The back of my Chrysler is sagging so much and the leafs are inverted now I believe so I think its time to change out the springs now.