Back in the Mopar Boat, after 25 years!

Big Tuna

Big Tuna

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Dallas, Texas
Hi All! Recently picked up a '77 NYB 2door St. Regis/440. Lean burn bypassed with electronic ignition and edelbrock 14063 carb. Spinnaker White/Blue Leather. 63k miles. I am 3rd owner. Sorting out the gremlins with electrical stuff. The car sat in a storage building of 2nd owner since 1989, and logged only 4000 miles in that time. It's a work in progress, but I am getting there. Current issue is the HVAC blower and trunk release are not getting power. Fuse slot #10 is good, and fusible links are good. Still scratching my head studying the service manual schematics.
So, without further blabbering, here she is:

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Slap Stick said:
Wow! Now that's a nice tuna boat!
Have you applied power directly to the fan motor to see if it works? It may be stuck.
Welcome back in style!
Click to expand...
I did, it works fine. The blower motor and trunk release are on same circuit. It did work, the other day, but now, it is not getting power from battery to that circuit. I worked on it for two hours, but took a break for now. Confused as to why all the areas to check, all tested good. I must have missed a fusible link or circuit breaker somewhere.
 
Chasing electronical gremlins is frustrating, because you just can't see those tiny damn electrons and where they're going or being blocked from going!

But it's Oh-So-Gratifying when you make that simple discovery and suddenly your blower and trunk release works properly. :thumbsup:
 
Nice car. Welcome back to the team!

Is power getting across the fuse in the fuse block? I've seen glass fuses break internally so that it's the same effect as if they blew, but they show no visual sign that its bad. Only way to check for this is to put a volt meter on it.
 
Welcome
I recommend you:
  • Key on, check for voltage at the outside of the fuse. If low or zero, not battery voltage, fuse may be blown or could be fuse box problem. If you have battery voltage at the outside of the fuse, (not the inward side where it get's battery voltage (key on) but the outer side as it's mounted), you know the fuse is OK
  • If voltage at fuse is OK, which it probably is:
  • Disconnect negative battery cable
  • Disconnect connector at trunk release.
  • Ignition key on
  • Using a long jumper wire and your ohmmeter, check for continuity from the outside of the fuse to the power input wire at the trunk release connector
  • Disconnect the blower motor connector and repeat same test.
  • If you have poor continuity (many ohms or infinite resistance) from fusebox to a connector, work your way back toward the fusebox, checking continuity at each connector in succession moving along the wire back to the fusebox. When you get to a connector where you have good continuity to the fusebox, you know you have a problem between that connector and the previously checked connector. Could be abrasion or corrosion or a wire break that's eating up voltage or creating short to ground. I have often this problem at the connector behind the driver side kick panel.
  • If you have good continuity, resistance of only a few ohms: turn key off, reconnect battery cable, turn key on
  • Using an assistant to operate the trunk and blower switches, use voltmeter to check for battery voltage at both connectors.
  • If voltage at connectors is low, you may have a short to ground that it drawing off voltage so that neither system works. Then go back toward fusebox checking voltage at intermediate connectors. When voltage goes up, you know you have a short to ground between that connector and the previous connector. Then you have to trace wire looking for a break in the insulation. That can involve removing a lot of old electrical tape. Often problem areas occur behind the driver side kick panel, under the driver side door sill plate, or in the trunk.
  • Good luck!
 
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