Basecoat/clearcoat or urethane for my 1972 Newport?

Henrius

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My Newport Custom is a blue metallic. I am trying to keep it looking original from the outside. All the shops use basecoat/clearcoat now, but will do single stage on request. What would be the best paint for my car? Big cars get more dings than small cars, so the ability to do touch-ups easily will be a factor in what paint to use.
 
One thing to keep in mind that with the single stage metallics there is no wet sanding or buffing, what they get out of the gun is it. With the basecoat/clearcoat you can buff the heck out of the clearcoat assuming you put enough down.

So it all depends on how good the painter is. I have done two cars basecoat/clearcoat one metallic one not.

As for touchups? Color match will be an issue either way.


Alan
 
One thing to keep in mind that with the single stage metallics there is no wet sanding or buffing, what they get out of the gun is it. With the basecoat/clearcoat you can buff the heck out of the clearcoat assuming you put enough down.

So it all depends on how good the painter is. I have done two cars basecoat/clearcoat one metallic one not.

As for touchups? Color match will be an issue either way.


Alan

Thanks Alan,

There seem to be passionate advocates either way. I will not be doing the painting, so I guess it is better to let the paint shop use what they are familiar with.

I remember when I was dabbling with painting, after taking one course at a technical college. I brought all the material I had bought for class to a local paint shop to paint my hood. It was not the brand they were used to using, and it did not turn out well!
 
I would say most people would do bc/cc no matter what. Given that I have done three of my cars in SS because that is how they should be and they were solid colors. I have partially painted another car, circa 1991 and dark metallic blue, so I am using bc/cc. One could do a SS metallic but I would think you need a top quality gun and a very well mixed metallic paint in order for the metallic particles to lay uniformly. I wouldn't try it myself at home due to the need to get it to lay right and then deal with the fact that one can do no color sanding. With bc/cc the base is pretty easy to lay down once mixed well. The clear coat is where you can do your color sanding depending on how much orange peel you have and provided you have a minimum of three coats.
 
I remember when I was dabbling with painting, after taking one course at a technical college. I brought all the material I had bought for class to a local paint shop to paint my hood. It was not the brand they were used to using, and it did not turn out well![/QUOTE]


did same with gearing in a rear end...l now let them be the proffesionals..lesson learned
 
Technical College may not be the way for everybody. I took a class at Allan Hancock College in Santa Maria CA, within two months I was in the booth painting my Barracuda. I had never painted a car before and it turned out great, people find it hard to believe I painted it myself and it was the first car I had ever painted. Not perfect but pretty darn good.

Wet sanded, not buffed out yet.
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Alan
 
My last shoot waz on my '83 Plymouth Scamp GT Pickup. The fun part of that exersize waz wet sandin' out the mosquitoes that made the mistake of trying to backstroke on my hood too soon, AAARRRGGGHHHH!
 
Youse guys with the painting skills really piss me off. Grrr...
It's not hard. Once you realize that you can repaint it, if things go south, you'll feel better. With base coat clear coat, if it looks bad, go grab another beer & some chips, and when you get done - spray it again. If it looks ok, then shoot it with clear coat. Get a run, wet sand it out. The fumes are the worst part.
 
BC/CC is the best way to go. It will last longer (providing you use a top quality clear) and any future repairs or touch ups will be easier.
 
BC/CC is the best way to go. It will last longer (providing you use a top quality clear) and any future repairs or touch ups will be easier.


Agreed, use a quality clear makes life a lot easier, and if you are only doing one paint job you will not have too much left over just use it all.
 
1967 Medium Copper Metallic, it was available on the full Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge lineup, I think it was the same in 66.
The interior is the same color.
Alan

My '67 GT was Dark Copper Metallic (likeness below) with the Medium Copper interior. Everybody called it brown...

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I agree with the BC/CC guys. Very forgiving. I did my 1st paint job last April, '68 Firebird after extensive body work. I jumped right in, bought plasma cutter, HF Mig and painted in my shop. Came out very nice from all accounts. Talk to your local auto paint dealer and a lot of good info on YouTube. Sold it to buy the Fury which is getting close to paint itself. Just finished up engine bay last night.

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Left quarter.jpg


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Basecoat/clearcoat is the way to go. The shops spray it all the time on newer cars and they are going to be better at it and more familiar with the materials... plus most shops mix their own paint too and they are set up for bc/cc. My car was just done in bc/cc.

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/showthread.php?12192-Finally-in-the-body-shop!

NCM_0653_zpsh018hwuj.jpg

There is that car again. . . I absolutely love that car, the color, the top. I love it all ! You suck vera much.
 
Painted my entire car myself with single stage BASFView attachment 40428. Took it apart,
fixed all imperfections, set up a temporary spray booth and went to work - BMW black.
It's not for everyone but it was for me. After painting I smoothed the finish by machine, glazed the paint and polished it. There's a lot of work to doing this so if it's instant
satisfaction you want get a shop to do it. I like the sheen of single stage because cars
of the late 50's and early sixties had a patina resembling enamel paint with deep
reflective properties when polished and clear wasn't that widely used. I had to do it
in this manner to get a true black and the effects it gives. Each to his own.
 
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