Because I'm Electrically Challenged (Another ammeter thread)

[Dsertdog]

Ok I admit it. Electrical messes aren't my forte' I'm also very nervous about melting or setting things on fire.

For the record, nothing on my '66 Polara is broken at this time. When I took the instrument clusters out to re-bulb them, I cleaned the ammeter terminals real good and reinstalled them.
Things seem to work very well but I think my alternator has weak diodes. So I'm having it rebuilt. I'm not planning on putting aftermarket devices on the car, so the factory output will be fine.

The quandry is this. Of all the threads I've seen explaining the bypass, etc, one post discussed running a shunt from the battery post on the alternator to the battery terminal without removing the ammeter wiring.
The post stated the ammeter would work slower but that the system would charge better and the car would still start if the ammeter malfunctioned.
The quote is from can critters thread...
@cbarge
After experiencing this first hand and rewiring dozens of other Mopars,just do it.
Run a 10 gauge wire from the BATT stud back of alternator to the BATT stud of the starter relay and at the relay end use a 12 gauge fusible link.
This takes away half the load from the ammeter gauge and will eliminate any nuclear meltdowns should the alternator or voltage regulator short out.
Also, if the ammeter gauge take a dump,the car will still run.

First, do these photos circle the correct terminals I should attach the wire to?

 

[dart4forte]

Here ya go

 

[cbarge]

Ok I admit it. Electrical messes aren't my forte' I'm also very nervous about melting or setting things on fire.

For the record, nothing on my '66 Polara is broken at this time. When I took the instrument clusters out to re-bulb them, I cleaned the ammeter terminals real good and reinstalled them.
Things seem to work very well but I think my alternator has weak diodes. So I'm having it rebuilt. I'm not planning on putting aftermarket devices on the car, so the factory output will be fine.

The quandry is this. Of all the threads I've seen explaining the bypass, etc, one post discussed running a shunt from the battery post on the alternator to the battery terminal without removing the ammeter wiring.
The post stated the ammeter would work slower but that the system would charge better and the car would still start if the ammeter malfunctioned.
The quote is from can critters thread...
@cbarge
After experiencing this first hand and rewiring dozens of other Mopars,just do it.
Run a 10 gauge wire from the BATT stud back of alternator to the BATT stud of the starter relay and at the relay end use a 12 gauge fusible link.
This takes away half the load from the ammeter gauge and will eliminate any nuclear meltdowns should the alternator or voltage regulator short out.
Also, if the ammeter gauge take a dump,the car will still run.

First, do these photos circle the correct terminals I should attach the wire to?

View attachment 358751
View attachment 358752

Yes,that is correct. make sure you use a fusible link at the starter realy end for easy repair in the future.
The diagram is great ,but just focus on the one wire under the hood between the alternator and starter relay.
I do not loop the wires behind the ammeter gauge,btw I just leave em connected to the ammeter.It wont hurt..

 

[cbarge]

With the fresh alternator get rid of the old mechanical voltage regulator and go with an electronic one.
Plug n play VR706 from AutoZone..

 

[Dsertdog]

With the fresh alternator get rid of the old mechanical voltage regulator and go with an electronic one.
Plug n play VR706 from AutoZone..
View attachment 358980

I installed an electronic unit on the car several months agothat looks like a factory one. I think I got it from FuryGT on e bay
I like not having to remove the original alternator wire and just shunting to the relay

Thanks for the confirmation. I will build a shunt.

 

[cbarge]

I installed an electronic unit on the car several months agothat looks like a factory one. I think I got it from FuryGT on e bay
I like not having to remove the original alternator wire and just shunting to the relay

Thanks for the confirmation. I will build a shunt.

Basically doubling up on the wire which takes 50 percent of the current away from the ammeter when you leave the factory wiring in place.
FuryGT's regualtor is top shelf and keep it in use.

 

[Dsertdog]

@cbarge
Thank you for your help! I like the idea of keeping the stock gauge. It's pretty slow anyway, probably because the alternator. The solid state regulator helped a little.

 

[cbarge]

@cbarge
Thank you for your help! I like the idea of keeping the stock gauge. It's pretty slow anyway, probably because the alternator. The solid state regulator helped a little.

You can install an aftermarket voltmeter under the dash if you refer an accurte reading on the charging system.
. Hook the positve to a 12 volt switched source in the fuse block,and ground the negative wire to any metal under the dash.
Done.

 

[Dsertdog]

You can install an aftermarket voltmeter under the dash if you refer an accurte reading on the charging system.
. Hook the positve to a 12 volt switched source in the fuse block,and ground the negative wire to any metal under the dash.
Done.

Maybe somewhere down the line. It's not a Mopar without an over-engineered power train and an under-engineered electrical system!

 

[MoparJim]

The electronic voltage regulator I got from Fury GT a couple years back was a huge blessing for me and it solved my weak charging and dim headlights as soon as I installed it. I have been using it for almost 3 years now and I am very happy I got it.