Best replacement for distributor vacuum advance on a 2-bbl 1966 383?

[Gerald Morris]

Having seen ZERO function from the vacuum advance on my '66 2-bbl 383, I'm at a loss to find a replacement. PLENTY meant for FOUR barrel carburetors, but NADA for 2 barrel setups, be they Carter or Stromberg. Any suggestions? Or shall I just order up the new Cardone single point unit for about $90. I've seen NOS vacuum advance pots going for as much or more....... I LOVE my reman from Cardone via VatoZone, but I would love it more if the vacuum advance was working.

 

[halifaxhops]

Got a pic of it where it mounts to the plate might have a used one. There are two different angles and a ton of degrees it can be.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Got a pic of it where it mounts to the plate might have a used one. There are two different angles and a ton of degrees it can be.

Thanx bro. Damn things are common as rooster teeth. I have the OLD Chrysler original still myself, so I might try a look at that. Thank the Lord Chrysler Corp Motor Parts DOCUMENTED their work so well! I found the part number(s) in the 66 catalogue. Looks like I might do just as well to just buy one of the NEW Cardone 84-3817 jobs from Rock. People charge MORE for a damned NOS pot than for a complete distributor rig! That's just crazy. Mathilda just PURRS when I bump that starter over and idle her. She really runs so well even now that it never OCCURRED to me that the vac advance was DEAD. NOW, if I can just get that damned tranny rebuilt.....

 

[CBODY67]

Remember that anything "NOS" from 1966 has a rubber diaphragm in it that's 50+ years old. IF you want something to last, it needs to have newer rubber in it. IF Cardone is selling reman distributors with a vac can, THEY have to be getting them somewhere. Finding that "somewhere" is the trick, but a doable trick. Look in different locations, as Standard Motor Parts and for different model years of Chrysler 383 engines in different vehicles.

If you look at all of the distributor numbers the Cardone item fits, they range from a 1958 part number up to distributor numbers from the earlier 1970s. Compression ratios from 8.7 to 10.5. It might be listed as fitting a '66 383 2bbl, but it's more "will fit/work" than "exact factory replacement". A more generic-to-B block Chrysler engines than having the specific advance curves (mechanical and/or vacuum) a "66 Chrysler 383 2bbl came from the factory with.

I found new vacuum advance controls (Standard Motor Parts and BWD, parts mfg websites) a few months ago, but it was pointed out that only point-style cans are a bolt-in replacement and that electronic ign cans need a little mod to work. Most were under $20.00.

At this time, it's probably more important to have a vac advance that works, not sweating the details of how many degrees advance it might have, per se. IF you can insert an Allen wrench into the vac nipple, turn it and it indexes with a nut inside, you can adjust the vac level the advance starts.

Check the prior thread on this subject where I listed the specific part numbers of SMP items.

CBODY67

 

[halifaxhops]

Here are some of the styles I have if needed, yes a old one is a crap shoot along with NOS Mopar that sell for over 100. Seems like standard stopped making BB ones a few years ago and most rebuilders just clean up what they have and set the distributor to work in a span of around 10 years it seems. Getting one off a parts store shelf can be great or bad if the curve is for a smog motor and yours is a HP application. I know when I gets cores in with no number tag, it is a rebuild and just strip them for parts.

 

[halifaxhops]

these might help. They have been cleaned up since the pic was taken except the NOSS.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks! If they hold their vacuum and pull, thats the main thing. My old 383 is pre-smog, which is the motor I'm immediately concerned with though the 77 400 I got is FULL smog, complete w the little Holley on it. I'll rebuild it by and by, or rather buy and buy I reckon. What do you want for one of those pots?

 

[Gerald Morris]

Remember that anything "NOS" from 1966 has a rubber diaphragm in it that's 50+ years old. IF you want something to last, it needs to have newer rubber in it. IF Cardone is selling reman distributors with a vac can, THEY have to be getting them somewhere. Finding that "somewhere" is the trick, but a doable trick. Look in different locations, as Standard Motor Parts and for different model years of Chrysler 383 engines in different vehicles.

If you look at all of the distributor numbers the Cardone item fits, they range from a 1958 part number up to distributor numbers from the earlier 1970s. Compression ratios from 8.7 to 10.5. It might be listed as fitting a '66 383 2bbl, but it's more "will fit/work" than "exact factory replacement". A more generic-to-B block Chrysler engines than having the specific advance curves (mechanical and/or vacuum) a "66 Chrysler 383 2bbl came from the factory with.

I found new vacuum advance controls (Standard Motor Parts and BWD, parts mfg websites) a few months ago, but it was pointed out that only point-style cans are a bolt-in replacement and that electronic ign cans need a little mod to work. Most were under $20.00.

At this time, it's probably more important to have a vac advance that works, not sweating the details of how many degrees advance it might have, per se. IF you can insert an Allen wrench into the vac nipple, turn it and it indexes with a nut inside, you can adjust the vac level the advance starts.

Check the prior thread on this subject where I listed the specific part numbers of SMP items.

CBODY67

Right, I don't cherish NOS rubber, which, unless its stored in some cryogenic/inert/ 0 entropy env, will have all the snap of my dead gramma's p****. I see a bunch of stuff from Standard on EvilBay. Probably the best stuff I can get. I notice the Standard VC-155 is considered good for 2-bbl 383s.....

Getting some fresh RUBBER for my old pot is the trick. It has occurred to me that Cardone is getting their stuff from somewhere so.... Given that I'm running Tilly as a family ride, I'm not too picky about the advance curve. What I've had for the past year has been dandy, and that likely has been just straight mech advance.

 

[halifaxhops]

25 for the used shipped, which arm do you need the "curved" one or the "straigt" ones, they are stamped 10 l which is actually doubled so it gives 20. I liked up your curve and I think it was 18-22 vac.

 

[CBODY67]

The 400s might be "full smog", BUT when you look at the cam specs, the only thing "smog" is the learner carb calibrations and the dist mechanical advance curve, plus the 8.2 compression ratio. Maybe an AIR pump, too, if needed, and a car converter. More cam than the '66 383 2bbl, or even the 383 4bbl of that year, plus the 1.74" exhaust valves.

The Holley 2245 is the EGR version of the earlier 2210, which started in 1970. It's a much "cleaner" carb than the old Stromberg or Carter 2bbls. After the airhorn warped on the Stromberg, I put the '70 2210 on in its place. Used the thick OEM base gasket and all was better. BUT still prone to the same air cleaner stud over-tightening issues as the Stromberg, except that Holley had a "bridge kit" Chrysler part to fix it with.

When the vac advance on my '66 Newport went out, fuel economy dropped to about 12mpg, from an average of 16mpg in mixed highway/city Mostly freeway. That was in about '75 when that happened.

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

The 400s might be "full smog", BUT when you look at the cam specs, the only thing "smog" is the learner carb calibrations and the dist mechanical advance curve, plus the 8.2 compression ratio. Maybe an AIR pump, too, if needed, and a car converter. More cam than the '66 383 2bbl, or even the 383 4bbl of that year, plus the 1.74" exhaust valves.

The Holley 2245 is the EGR version of the earlier 2210, which started in 1970. It's a much "cleaner" carb than the old Stromberg or Carter 2bbls. After the airhorn warped on the Stromberg, I put the '70 2210 on in its place. Used the thick OEM base gasket and all was better. BUT still prone to the same air cleaner stud over-tightening issues as the Stromberg, except that Holley had a "bridge kit" Chrysler part to fix it with.

When the vac advance on my '66 Newport went out, fuel economy dropped to about 12mpg, from an average of 16mpg in mixed highway/city Mostly freeway. That was in about '75 when that happened.

CBODY67

AH HAH! My city mileage is about 9 mpg, though much of that comes of a dying transmission too. I've got a GoFundMe net panhandle going to raise $$ for the tranny job. After I get that, I'll get on many of the other issues plaguing Tilly. I'm looking forward to building that 400! STRONG block, good heads w hardened valve seats etc, and will drop right in sweet as a replacement for the 383. I'm pondering a 2210 for a replacement for the Stromberg. I'd really like a 500 CFM 2-bbl. That extra breathing should put a little more punch on Tilly, but IFF I get the vac advance, et al righty tighty. So much to do, so few $$....