Anyone on here running DOT 5 brake fluid on their Imperial? I am getting the entire brake system redone on my ‘65 Imperial and thought of using DOT 5. Just wanted to see if other Imperial owners have done the same thing.
Brake Fluid
- Thread starter ab777
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Are you using *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A.made *** Asbestos *** Brake Shoes --- for the softest , smooooooothest braking system known to mankind ---
Or , are you going to use Chineseum garbage--- and rip up V E R Y expensive IMPERIAL Brake Drums to smithereens.....
I also , of course , have Brake Hardware , Wheel Cylinders , Brake Hoses, and *** U.S.A. made *** Front Wheel Bearings and Imperial ONLY Wheel Seals.....
Fortunately for you , if you are intelligent, I have all of that in stock / on hand.......
Or , are you going to use Chineseum garbage--- and rip up V E R Y expensive IMPERIAL Brake Drums to smithereens.....
I also , of course , have Brake Hardware , Wheel Cylinders , Brake Hoses, and *** U.S.A. made *** Front Wheel Bearings and Imperial ONLY Wheel Seals.....
Fortunately for you , if you are intelligent, I have all of that in stock / on hand.......
You realize there are DOT5 and DOT5.1 brake fluids? NOT the same or similar stuff, other than both are "brake fluid".
Might be best to use normal DOT3 and then upgrade to the better stuff at a later date? There is also a DOT4.
Research to see which one might best match your desires.
CBODY67
Might be best to use normal DOT3 and then upgrade to the better stuff at a later date? There is also a DOT4.
Research to see which one might best match your desires.
CBODY67
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I have run DOT5 in my silver ‘67 for most of the 30k miles I’ve put on it. Just replaced it with this years improvements.
Also do not mix them at all. Everything has to be chemically cleaned or the rubber will swell alot!
Pete Kaczmarski
Senior Member
Thirty-six years ago my '59 Imperial was restored using new brake lines etc., with Synthetic brake fluid. The only negative for me was my car had a master cylinder brake light switch. That would fail (no brake lights) about every three years. After several replacements, it was found that the Synthetic fluid would swell the rubber inside the switch. About ten years ago I learned to use a Harley-Davidson wet brake light switch with a standard to metric fitting. I have not had a problem, but I still check the master cylinder every year (single pot). I may have to add 1/8" of brake fluid. I know this system is somewhat different than yours, but I wanted others to know my experience.
Yes I am aware of the differences, and I was intending to use DOT 5 as one of my other cars is running DOT 5.
RemCharger
Active Member
This will sound weird but virtually no mass produced vehicle came with dot 5 syn. They either have great reasons, or all producers are imbeciles.
1962 Crown Conv
New Member
Yes, I have used DOT 5 silicone brake fluid in my '62 LeBaron probably for 10 years. It prevents the metal parts from rusting, does not absorb moisture, so the car can sit for long periods of time and the brakes will still be as good as the last rebuild. I replaced all the lines and cylinders, but if you retain the metal lines, just flush them with air and denatured alcohol. All the rubber parts must be replaced prior to using DOT 5. I also paint DOT 5 brake fluid onto sheet metal to prevent rust, because it penetrates the metal, like on the insides of doors. I have also wiped my whole car with it. It prevents paint oxidation and gives old enamel a nice shine.
I’ve read about the issue with the switch that you mentioned, I am new to Imperials so I am not really sure but would the ‘65 have the same issue with the switch or was that more of an issue on the earlier models?
Originally, DOT5 was cheaper at the motorcycle/Harley shops, back in the 1980s. Nothing was mentioned about purging the lines and such, back then. It could even be used "on top of" normal DOT3, according to Dow-Corning.
A friend changed over his '79 Corvette (with 4 4-piston calipers) as insurance against the "Corvette Caliper Scorn" later on. He just bled it through the system. Pedal was a bit spongy for the first few days, then rock solid like it should be. No other issues with the brakes past that. All OEM rubber lines, too. BUT . . . that was back then, when it was still "The Cat's Meow".
Enjoy!
CBODY67
A friend changed over his '79 Corvette (with 4 4-piston calipers) as insurance against the "Corvette Caliper Scorn" later on. He just bled it through the system. Pedal was a bit spongy for the first few days, then rock solid like it should be. No other issues with the brakes past that. All OEM rubber lines, too. BUT . . . that was back then, when it was still "The Cat's Meow".
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Pete Kaczmarski
Senior Member
Your 1965 Imperial has a steering column activated switch to the best of my knowledge not the master cylinder mounted wet switc
h I have in 1959.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
we restored a 1940 Diamond T pickup for a guy who worked as a mechanic for the Post Office...he wanted silicone fluid and claimed all Post Office vehicles used silicone fluid...I have no way to verify that....after chasing persistent leaks at the banjo fittings on the rear wheel cylinders, I was thankful for the fluid used otherwise the paint on the backing plates would have been ruined...we all know the advantage of silicone not absorbing moisture from the air, which causes corrosion and lowers the boiling point of the fluid...what I've read on the other side is that any moisture that finds its way into the system will not mix with the fluid , but will remain in pockets that will then boil if subjected to enough heat, causing the pedal to go to the floor...I personally don't see how moisture could get into a system unless the resevoir was vented to the atmosphere through the cap (old single masters?) but this is allegedly why the race car segment won't use silicone
The main reason is the DOT5 is slightly more compressible than the glycol based fluids. You may not feel it in a street car, but in a race car, you want everything to be as responsive as possible.
It's harder to bleed too. I found that out the hard way. LOL.
volksworld
Well-Known Member
yes any air bubbles that get in there remain suspended in the fluid ...the last thing you want to do with silicone fluid is pump the heck out of the brakes to bleed them
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