Joseph James
Senior Member
Replaced wheel cylinder. Pre filled with fluid. Installed and bled. Now it pukes fluid. Any ideas what I did wrong? Thanks.
Brake help?
- Thread starter Joseph James
- Start date
"Pukes fluid" out of where?
Joseph James
Senior Member
The new wheel cylinder.
Pretty simple. The new wheel cylinder is bad.
It happens, especially with the China sourced replacements we have now.
It happens, especially with the China sourced replacements we have now.
Joseph James
Senior Member
It is Chinese. From Rock Auto.
Remember that Rock Auto has many different brands of parts they sell. Just an online vendor, like a local auto supply on steroids with an Internet presence. Brand choice, rather than vendor choice is still important.
CBODY67
CBODY67
jason99
Well-Known Member
What manufacturers are preferable when it comes to brake parts, or does it depend on year? Raybestos, Centric, Wanger, other?
I just installed the "reduced diameter" cylinders that Richard Ehrenberg sells. They look very USA, like they just came out of a dealership. I also bought his riveted shoes and "not AutoChinaZone" return springs. He doesn't sell junk, that's for damn sure. His prices for good stuff are reasonable, too.
As for the reduced diameter cylinder, the intent is to REDUCE braking force in the rear to avoid lock-up and the ensuing swapping-of-ends of our long cars.
![IMG_0710[1].JPG](https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/img_0710-1-jpg.250360/ "IMG_0710[1].JPG")
![IMG_0713[1].JPG](https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/img_0713-1-jpg.250361/ "IMG_0713[1].JPG")
As for the reduced diameter cylinder, the intent is to REDUCE braking force in the rear to avoid lock-up and the ensuing swapping-of-ends of our long cars.
Check the taper on the bleeder screw, there has been a problem with ChiCom units being poorly machined to where the bleeder screw does not seat properly into the wheel cylinder. Some have also be noted to have poorly machined cylinders that have no seat for the bleeder screw.
Dave
Dave
Regarding bleed screws, let me add that ChiCom ball joints and tie rod end Zerks can also have this problem. I actually pulled a Zerk out of a lower ball joint the other day with a grease gun, and both threads "looked" fine. Had to put a little rubber plug back in the hole to seal it, as the Zerk wouldn't even go finger tight after I snatched it out.
If I recall correctly, our 66 Newport (and other Chrysler products of that general time frame) were actually shipped with "bolts" in the ball joint lube holes. The procedure was for the dealer to remove the bolt/plug, insert a fitting, lube the joint, then remove the fitting and reinstall the "bolt/plug". Possibly to prevent moisture contamination or loss of lube if the ball/seal might malfunction. When we got the '66 Newport greased for the first time, the option was to install the fittings (leaving them in) or to continue with the bolt/plugs. The normal option was to put the Zerk fittings in and leave them in (at a small additional cost). Seems like the FSM had documentation of that, too?
As for brake items, the only names on that list which are "American brands" are Raybestos and Wagner. Rather than stand-alone companies, both are now part of conglomerates of auto parts companies, by observation. But they both have a robust online eCatalog.
How much smaller are the Eberg whl cylinder bores? A link to his parts-for-sale?
Rear wheel brake pressure bias was always a problem for many cars, on drum brake systems, as all 4 wheel cylinders saw the same brake pressures. The front/rear balance was done via different brake shoe widths and different wheel cylinder bore diameters, f/r, but that balance also had to ensure good braking at max load weights, which many vehicles never had.
Anti-lock braking was completely "foot/analog" with decel sensors in the seat cushion (driver) and auditory (driver's ears) as the driver's foot quickly pulsed the brake pedal manually. A learned situation, unless you went to the default mode of just standing on the brake pedal and letting the tire/road friction interface take over.
CBODY67
As for brake items, the only names on that list which are "American brands" are Raybestos and Wagner. Rather than stand-alone companies, both are now part of conglomerates of auto parts companies, by observation. But they both have a robust online eCatalog.
How much smaller are the Eberg whl cylinder bores? A link to his parts-for-sale?
Rear wheel brake pressure bias was always a problem for many cars, on drum brake systems, as all 4 wheel cylinders saw the same brake pressures. The front/rear balance was done via different brake shoe widths and different wheel cylinder bore diameters, f/r, but that balance also had to ensure good braking at max load weights, which many vehicles never had.
Anti-lock braking was completely "foot/analog" with decel sensors in the seat cushion (driver) and auditory (driver's ears) as the driver's foot quickly pulsed the brake pedal manually. A learned situation, unless you went to the default mode of just standing on the brake pedal and letting the tire/road friction interface take over.
CBODY67
He states that his cylinders are a 13% reduction in bore size from OEM, but what is actually important is the math of the area of the OEM vs. Ehrenberg pistons [pi x r squared], as that's the real reduction in braking force.
Anyway, you can read about his cylinders here, and his eBay store has all sorts of groooooovy parts.
MOPAR: Disc / Drum Brakes Lockup Proportioning Fix Plymouth Dodge A, B, E-Body | eBay
And they're Made In The USA.
Joseph James
Senior Member
Thanks for the info gents. I will be finishing brakes tomorrow. Just got engine running and hood back on.
I gotta tell ya (and we all know this)....modern cars with ABS are amazing to me, having slid around in my 68 Dart in the 70s. My "Grand Sport" Chevrolet Sports Car With Giant Rubber On All Four Corners [I was told to never mention that model of automobile on this forum.
] will cause your dentures to fly out your mouth when I hammer the brake pedal. Other than the stunning deceleration, there's no other drama, even if you're in a sweeper at speed. No screeching, no yaw, no swapping ends....it just friggin' stops right now. Gotta love silicon chips and wheel speed sensors and magnetic shocks and huge rotors and six-piston front calipers.I gotta tell ya....modern cars with ABS are amazing. My "Grand Sport" Chevrolet Sports Car With Giant Rubber On All Four Corners [I was told to never mention that model of automobile on this forum.
Until it screws up and you have to do diagnostics! Great when working properly.
Dave
Diagnostics....so nice....plug that OBD in there and you're an instant professional!
Joseph James
Senior Member
Indeed. I called a local shop about doing the engine swap in my Fury. They run commercials about how great their mechanics are. I was told they don't work on anything made before 1990.
Agreed, at least until a manufacturer does and upgrade and makes your expensive snap on OBD obsolete.
Dave
Taking a car without a computer or OBD port to most shops these days gets you lots of dumb looks and pud whacking.
Dave
Dave
Pud Whacking!
And you're right about OBDs becoming obsolete overnight. In 1996 it was originally for straightforward emissions/fuel mileage stuff and quickly got complex from there. GM now has their Tech II platform for all the stuff that's NOT traditional OBD--engine, ABS, Airbags--such as HVAC, all the body controls and sensors, keyless entry, power windows, magic suspension components, dashboard gages and controls....complex stuff that can't be deduced without a Tech II scanner. And you can't get one at your local AutoNAPAdvancedZone.
And you're right about OBDs becoming obsolete overnight. In 1996 it was originally for straightforward emissions/fuel mileage stuff and quickly got complex from there. GM now has their Tech II platform for all the stuff that's NOT traditional OBD--engine, ABS, Airbags--such as HVAC, all the body controls and sensors, keyless entry, power windows, magic suspension components, dashboard gages and controls....complex stuff that can't be deduced without a Tech II scanner. And you can't get one at your local AutoNAPAdvancedZone.
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