brass exhaust nuts

jct

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i know for oem nuts it's 30 ft lbs, but for brass no clue what to torque them too? they will be slathered in copper anti-seize
 
The anti-seize, if not factory OEM, can make that factory torque easier to hit and be too much, due to the lube factor of the anti-seize. The factory torque specs usually call for a lightly-lubed threads situation, rather than "dry" threads. That friction plus the stretching of the stud are what makes the final torque reading. Might need to use just enough anti-seize to cover the threads, rather than "slathered"? Then torque in segments until the final level is achieved.

CBODY67
 
since i left out some important infomation on the thread size (3/8-24) and torque of 212 in-lbs/18 ft-lbs
 
tried to torque them down to 20ft-lbs striped the threads out of one nut
 
Just don't use Stainless Steal boltz 'n nutz 'cuz it's ah one way trip. And you won't realize it 'til you try and remove them. Ever heard of the word Galling? The materiel of the threads will actually move as you tighten the nuts. Nylock nuts we all know about but they are forgiving. Stainless Steal nuts, NOT. Cutoff Wheel, Saws-all, Fire Wrench and they'll come off, Jer
 
So the studs won't break off when you try to remove the nuts

Also wanted to see what it would do when it did happen ._.
 
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It worked every time on our 210k mile Volvo 240 with already four sets of gaskets changed. Sometimes one stud came out with the nut, still intact.
 
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German specs... Gooden-tite.

Around here specs... tighten til' stripped, back off a 1/4 turn.:rofl:
 
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