What might be being missed is that the various oil filter media does not filter ALL of the microscopic "things" from the oil, just down to a certain level and ONLY a percentage of that, according to what I've read on
www.bobistheoilguy.com. With continued "passes through the filter", the filter will possibly get MORE of the smaller stuff, but still not all of it.
As mentioned, "break-in" really means that all of the microscopic jagged suerfaces left from the abrasive action against the cyl walls is "worn away", leaving a more-defined hone pattern on the walls. Things which you can ONLY see under a microscope. An article in a British car magazine detailed these facts back in the middle 1980s.
I fully suspect the new Corvette engines are assembled in one of the most automated engine facilities in the world, in Lansing, MI. That facility is completly CLEAN and everything has a computer record for that particular engine build. FAR better than anything to date and many private high-end shops, by observation. There is probagbly a YouTube video of Richard Rawlings "building" an engine up there for his COPOP Camaro race car, from a few years ago. FWIW.
It's that CLEAN engien build that will allow fror the full 7500mile first oil change. But that recommendation has been in GM literature since the middle '70s, too. And it obviously worked then, as now. Be aware, also, that the production engines get a 30-min run-in on a dyno stand before they go to the vehicle assy plant. BTAIM IF there are any issues later on, obviously they are well-calibrated by the perp to not happen immediately, but later. My machine shop operataive was a line mechanic for a larger Chevy dealer and he's told me of some incognito, harder to figure out, things of that nature.
Certainly, the high zddp race and break-in oils are purpose-built products. When the zccp levels get really high, as the Gibbs race oil, keeping a good and active detergency package becomes harder to do. Detergency is a minimal worry if the engine will only run for 600 miles total before tear-down.
IF you want to see how clean an engine build is, install an Oberg oil filter inline. Run it the engine for a good "break-in" period, then pull it apart to see what it's "caught". Right down to red rag lint, usually. Plus other smaller stuff.
To me, changing the oil filter after the first 100 miles or so might be a good idea, adding an appropriate amount of the initial oil fill. Then continuing on as long/short as you might desire.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
If GM thinks 7500 is okay (and I'm betting they've done their homework) why would they allow themselves to be shot in the foot with the warranty work on tens of thousands of dead engines? 
