Buck up lights wiring question

GoneLoco99

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I am using a 68+ 727 transmission with the 3 peg NSS/Reverse lights.
I installed a Cheetah Turbo Action floor shifter and I’m not using the factory column shifter. Working on a 68 Imperial.

I ran the MIDDLE peg on the switch/NSS to the negative side of my starter relay and that is working.
I unhooked the 2 purple wires on the factory “back up light” switch at the bottom of the steering column and wired those 2 purple wires to the 2 out side NSS pegs on the transmission. Put transmission in reverse on the backup lights are not working. Would anyone know why? I also checked the fuses too.
Thank you
 

CBODY67

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Were there no instructions with the "hot rod" floor shifter you installed?
 

1970FuryConv

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One of the NSS original wires went to the fuse box, backup light fuse. The other went to the backup lights. Both thru the bulkhead connector. Do you have 12.6 volts at 1 purple wire and continuity to the reverse lights through the other?
 

GoneLoco99

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One of the NSS original wires went to the fuse box, backup light fuse. The other went to the backup lights. Both thru the bulkhead connector. Do you have 12.6 volts at 1 purple wire and continuity to the reverse lights through the other?
I have nothing when the wires are hooked up. I even tried to switching the wires around, and still got nothing at the reverse lights.
 

GoneLoco99

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Were there no instructions with the "hot rod" floor shifter you installed?
No sir. And transmission is brand new with a 3 speed manual reverse valve body. Thus why I needed the “hod rod” floor shifter.
 

Big_John

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1968 trans does not work with the 69 and later nss with reverse lights.

You have to change the rooster comb on the valvebody to make one work.
 

Big_John

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You need the one on the right. The 68 trans has the one in the center.
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GoneLoco99

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1968 trans does not work with the 69 and later nss with reverse lights.

You have to change the rooster comb on the valvebody to make one work.
The car is a 68, the trans is a 68+ with the 3 peg style NSS.
It’s a brand new transmission & engine I put into a 68 Imperial.
 

Big_John

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It might have the 3 pole nss, but does it have the correct rooster comb? Its worth popping out the nss and looking in the hole.
 

Big_John

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You can also check for continuity between the two outside poles on the nss with the shifter in reverse.

If no continuity, the switch is bad or incorrect rooster comb.
 

CBODY67

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No sir. And transmission is brand new with a 3 speed manual reverse valve body. Thus why I needed the “hod rod” floor shifter.
So, you needed a reverse-action shifter when you will always be shifting away from "N", which was the main reason for the reverse valve body in the first place?
 

thethee

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Sorry if this is too obvious, but have you checked the wires at the factory backup switch at the base of the column for power? Were your back up lights working before you made the swap?
 

GoneLoco99

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Sorry if this is too obvious, but have you checked the wires at the factory backup switch at the base of the column for power? Were your back up lights working before you made the swap?
The “white” wire coming from the bulkhead area is “hot” the “purple” wire is not.
Those “white & purple” wires plug into (2) purple wires that is @ the factory reverse switch.

There is obviously a “hot” peg on the 3 peg NSS.
Does anyone know which is the “hot” side?
The left or the right? Or does it not matter?
 

GoneLoco99

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So in a nut shell & bottom line….
I wanna wire a 3 pegged NSS into a 1968 C body car.
That has 1 “hot” wire (white) & 1 “negative” wire (purple) @ the old backup switch.
To get backup lights.
Thank you in advance
 

1970FuryConv

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I have nothing when the wires are hooked up. I even tried to switching the wires around, and still got nothing at the reverse lights.
Have you used a volt/ohmmeter to be sure you have voltage at 1 outside prong and continuity to the reverse lights from the other outside prong? Since you are not using factory wiring, I don't think it matters which outside prong is input power and which is output power.
 

Big_John

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The “white” wire coming from the bulkhead area is “hot” the “purple” wire is not.
Those “white & purple” wires plug into (2) purple wires that is @ the factory reverse switch.

There is obviously a “hot” peg on the 3 peg NSS.
Does anyone know which is the “hot” side?
The left or the right? Or does it not matter?
Doesn't matter.

All the nss switch is (regarding the lights) is a simple on-off switch. One side is power, one side goes to the lights. It doesn't matter what pole is what.

As i said, continuity between the two poles is what you need to check. Put it in reverse, hook a multimeter to the outside prongs and see if you have continuity. If you need to learn how to do this:

 

GoneLoco99

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Doesn't matter.

All the nss switch is (regarding the lights) is a simple on-off switch. One side is power, one side goes to the lights. It doesn't matter what pole is what.

As i said, continuity between the two poles is what you need to check. Put it in reverse, hook a multimeter to the outside prongs and see if you have continuity. If you need to learn how to do this:


I am getting a 28.8 - 29.6 reading on the ohm meter.
Not sure what is “good” but I done it 4 or 5 times and that was the readings
 

Big_John

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I am getting a 28.8 - 29.6 reading on the ohm meter.
Not sure what is “good” but I done it 4 or 5 times and that was the readings
You should get zero or close to it.

Check for any change when its not in reverse, if it shows open, then its the switch.

If no change, bad switch or incorrect rooster comb on valve body.

Pull the switch and look in the hole to be 100% sure on rooster comb since you'll have to pull the switch anyways.

FWIW, I went through this with a bad new switch. Some of the replacements are junk.
 
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