burnt ignition wires.
- Thread starter 3C's & a D?
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Need a wiring diagram specific to your car to see what what circuits each of those wires are on.
traintech55
Senior Member
That looks like the main power feed into your ignition switch. This could be caused by a number of problems that were probably repaired already. Two main things to look for, after you repair the connector. Make sure all your connectors are clean and tight at the bulkhead connector, Dash harness to steering column connector, (pictured), and ignition switch. Clean and repair as necessary. Next have your charging system checked, A bad voltage regulator can let the system get maximum voltage. Your system should be between 14.5 and 15 volts with the engine running.
That's a pretty typical problem for the Fuselage cars. It's the battery feed for just about everything. It was a poor design to begin with and I've never seen a Fusey that didn't have the burnt connection here.
The best repair is to bypass the connector with the red wire. Snip the wire on both sides of the connector and connect them together with a crimp on butt connector or solder and heat shrink. You may need to cut the wire back and add a short piece of #12 wire.
The other wires and circuits through the connector don't have this problem.
If you want to take that connector apart and repair, you'll still want to bypass the connector for this red wire. Too much current passes through it and the problem will reoccur.
The best repair is to bypass the connector with the red wire. Snip the wire on both sides of the connector and connect them together with a crimp on butt connector or solder and heat shrink. You may need to cut the wire back and add a short piece of #12 wire.
The other wires and circuits through the connector don't have this problem.
If you want to take that connector apart and repair, you'll still want to bypass the connector for this red wire. Too much current passes through it and the problem will reoccur.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
A lot of splicing went in down there. Not good.
The connection is over stressed as it is... Then you add a couple accessories and it's a recipe for exactly what happened.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
THAT is nasty and scary. I had something like that happen. Nothing burned (there), but the insulation around the wires dried up, shrank and eventually pulled away over time allowing the wiring to fray just before going into the connector.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
So you're saying that the actual connection (two thin brass barrel terminals) is the weak link in the large twelve gauge wire run? That makes perfect sense! Thanks for the help. For the record I have owned several fuselages and have never had this problem, though most of the others are/were not so optioned out. I'm guessing power windows/seats are the main culprits.
I'll have to say that yours is just about the worst I've seen, but I've always encountered some sort of issue at that connection. My 70 300 vert looked pretty good until I tried to disconnect it. The connector had melted the plastic, but hadn't discolored it.
traintech55
Senior Member
One thing I forgot to ask, does your car have a tilt or standard steering column. If you have a standard one, then this harness is part of the ignition switch and you will have to repair it with a new connector to be able to replace the switch. If it is a tilt column, then you can just splice the wires as this is an adapter harness for the ignition switch.
That's true that if you have to replace the switch, you'll have to do something to get the new connector to plug in to the old one. Even getting the old one apart is going to be difficult. I would still strongly recommend doing a splice for that red wire even with a new connector.
That said, I don't know if anyone makes a replacement connector for this. I don't think I've ever seen one.
That said, I don't know if anyone makes a replacement connector for this. I don't think I've ever seen one.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
A 6 pin (3x2, not 6x1) 10-12 guage M&F Molex, AMP, et al, connector is all you're going to find.
Myself, I used two 3 pin pairs.
Caution: Radio Shack Molex connectors are 14-16 I think. power. 10-12 are internet items.
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I'd seriously consider a Delphi Weather Pack instead.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Thanks for the advice traintech55, sorry didn't mention it is a tilt/tele column, as for the aftermarket stuff, I prefer to stay stock even when no one can see. Parts are available, just not new. The bypass will be done without question, thanks to the information gained here.
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