Buying 68 Three Hundred help...

Steve Warden

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Hi Guys,

So I am looking at buying a 1968 300, the car has not been started in 10 years, but has been dry stored until 2 months ago. there is rust on the body - but not too bad.
What I am hoping for is some advice on what to look for when buying it - does the chassis fall apart in any particular places? any help will be appreciated.

Thanks
Steve

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Davea Lux

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Car with vinyl tops were prone to rusting out under the vinyl. Check the rear window channel, the A-Pillars and cowl. Check the lower quarter radii and the trunk floor. Check the C-Pillars and rockers and the lower part of the door posts. Check the passenger floors and the area under the rear seat. Check the frame rails, check especially the stub frame and it's attachment points. A car that has been sitting for 10 years is going to need a complete brake system rebuild, belts, hoses and probably a complete fuel system rebuild as well. You should also figure on replacing all tires.

From the photo supplied, it looks like this car has rust on the top of the windshield channel and possibly the passenger side A-Pillar. If the cowl is rusted at the base of the A-Pillar or in the area under the cowl vent, this is probably a parts car. Be sure to also check to be sure that the engine will turn over as a seized engine will need a complete rebuild in most cases. Check the wiring under the hood and dash for critter damage.

Daave
 

cbarge

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Welcome!
Where in Ontario are you and the car located??
Dave pretty much covered the critical areas.
I would add to see if the headlight doors work.

Having owned a few 68's including restoring my current Newort Custom I know all the bad areas,LOL!
Rare color combo silver with white guts and top
Does she have bucket seats/console floor shift?? Disc brakes?? other options??
Make sure you take a pic of the fender tag and share it here,please.
 

Cazman

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I had to replace the stub frame (front sub frame) in mine. Apparently, the batteries used to leak and the acid would run into the frame rails below the battery and then collect in the end of the frame under the drivers seat. That is the rear frame attachment point. It is hard to see and I missed it when I inspected my car (also not driven for many years). I might have gotten away with a patch and weld, but I was pulling the motor anyway and decided to replace the stub frame. Good Luck.
 

cbarge

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Other common areas that you have to look closely..
Couple areas were uncovered after taking things apart.
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cbarge

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Canadian cars tend to rot along the rear crossmember behind the bumper...
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Steve Warden

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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the replies, I have a lot to think about. I will be going back on Saturday to jack up the car and see what the chassis looks like. I will check everywhere you have sugested. I know it needs tires and brakes. He is asking 3k CAD for the car, which seems not to bad. the Windscreen is bothering me - when you look up at the screen from inside the trim has rust around all the screws!

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PH27L7

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81 = 440TNT! (correction, 81=350HP 440, 83 = TNT)
The frost green & some other things don't seem to add up, further investigation required.
300 data plate.jpg
 
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detmatt

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Had a black stripe too originally. Sometimes the Frost green can look silver but this one looks very silver and has a red stripe.
 

Steve Warden

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So I have looked on line to figure oot the fender plate and had no luck, I was told it was 68 - is that correct?
 

PH27L7

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So I have looked on line to figure oot the fender plate and had no luck, I was told it was 68 - is that correct?
Definitely '68 data plate, built 6-3-68. Maybe mistaken but I'm looking at frost green body & roof with no vinyl top. Maybe data plate for a different car, perhaps inner fender was replaced?
 

James Romano

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I'll play the devil's advocate here...
If this is your first car, and it's what you've been looking for, make sure it's something you want to get into. Buying a car that needs work is always a crap shoot. If you have the knowledge and tools, it's time expense. If you have no idea how to fix it and are considering paying someone .. well... This will be expensive.

But again... It's your car and your dreams. If this is the car you've been looking for and you're prepared to handle all that it will toss at you (maybe motor work, electrical, brakes...etc). Then go for it.

If this is going to be a flip, I'd say walk away because if the color isn't correct...you have no idea what else might be wrong.

I paid 16k for my 65 Sport Fury...which by all means is insane... However... I have found a happiness in owning this car like none before. Everything on my car was original except the paint. And owning it has been a blast. That's what you want... In the end, it's not the price....it's the value you get from owning it.

Good luck.
 

Lincsmoparmike

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Check out my garage for more rusty C body pictures - mines a 68 Dodge Monaco and it came from Canada - I'm in the UK so just just fitting another stub isn't an option - but the sheet metal is mostly the same as the 300 so I would think the rust will be the same. I'm just working from the front to the back fixing as I go! Awesome cars though. The vinyl roof on mine appears to have been stapled to the roof at the front and the back - is that normal?
 
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