C body brakes
- Thread starter Okie Joe
- Start date
mrfury68
Senior Member
Nope.
No
barnfind
Old Man with a Hat
Ahhhh no
If you look at your C Body suspension, and then that of a B Body, you will see the HUGE difference! I remember the first time I climbed under a B Body, my friend's '68 Charger. I was amazed how much smaller its components were compared to my Newport.
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"B" and "E" body parts are TOYS compared to "C" body parts...
I believe you are getting the idea that the answer is:
NO.....
I believe you are getting the idea that the answer is:
NO.....
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
There are disc brake conversion kits and used c-body disc brake sets out there, if the goal is drum to disc conversion.
An example for my car:
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/B...y+III&option=Base+(Drum+Brake)&axle=Front+Kit
An example for my car:
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/B...y+III&option=Base+(Drum+Brake)&axle=Front+Kit
Some reading on the subject.
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
Of course, well maintained drum brakes with quality linings will perform quite well. The Mopar drum brakes are nothing to sneeze at. Just saying...
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
Of course, well maintained drum brakes with quality linings will perform quite well. The Mopar drum brakes are nothing to sneeze at. Just saying...
69_topless
Member
I will continue with this thread since it's on topic. I have power drum brakes all around on 69 Polara and checked the shoes in front drums today while changing the tires before the new season starts. While the brakes perform equally and the car does not pull to either side, they are not exactly grabby and the pedal is quite soft at the beginning, especially compared to new daily drivers.
Reading in the other thread, there exists arcing of drum shoe method, something I probably should benefit from. Checking the shoes today, they seem to work with just a partial area available. I switched from the finned drums to standard drums a while ago because of Magnum 500 wheels and shoes were replaced also. All parts sourced from Rockauto, the drum shoes are likely WAGNER PAB336. Not sure if they are good or junk, just what was available. I can still lock all 4 wheels if intended and passed a roller brake tester all OK last year.
Please check the pictures below and confirm, the shoes arcing need to be adjusted, don't they? The only black parts of shoes, are getting in contact with the drum itself, correct? Or is it the drum not being round? Thanks for your advice.
Reading in the other thread, there exists arcing of drum shoe method, something I probably should benefit from. Checking the shoes today, they seem to work with just a partial area available. I switched from the finned drums to standard drums a while ago because of Magnum 500 wheels and shoes were replaced also. All parts sourced from Rockauto, the drum shoes are likely WAGNER PAB336. Not sure if they are good or junk, just what was available. I can still lock all 4 wheels if intended and passed a roller brake tester all OK last year.
Please check the pictures below and confirm, the shoes arcing need to be adjusted, don't they? The only black parts of shoes, are getting in contact with the drum itself, correct? Or is it the drum not being round? Thanks for your advice.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
It appears that they are not arched properly...
69_topless
Member
Thanks for the confirmation, will address it.
69_topless
Member
I´m considering buying a new hardware kit (springs,etc) for the front drum brake 11x3 but all I can find on Rockauto is a front set for the 11x2,75 DORMAN HW7132 kit. Does it makes any difference for the width of the shoes being larger 11x3 or shall I stick with the kit following the springs color I have now? It's blue and brownish?, is there any chart confirming its correct color? I found no info in my 69 service manual, thank you for advice.
69_topless
Member
I was adjusting the front brakes recently (11x3 drums) and noticed there is a spacer ring with the holes for the studs fitting the bolt pattern, which is good 1/8 inch thick. Perhaps it's leftover when the car used finned drums many years ago, which do not fit well with my Magnum 500 rims. I now realized I should try to rotate with the drum to see/feel any interferences without this spacer in place, but it's worth asking there first. What could be the reason to use this spacer, other than not allowing the drum to slide in way too deep? Service manual does not indicate any usage of spacers. Below are pictures with and without the spacer. The adjusting cable on one picture is out of the track but I fix that. Thanks for your tips 
I often wonder about B-van or pick up front disc brakes being used on Imperial to make for an easier source for rotors and calipers. The vans and pick ups used the same calipers 70/73 as Imperial and C-bodies. I have done disc swaps for A, B and E bodies using M body spindles and the 74/75 A body spindles (A-body spindles are being reproduced)
Just thinking. Maybe time for some measuring.
Just thinking. Maybe time for some measuring.
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