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Found this recently. Very disheartening. Under driver door area.
A few more pics would be helpful, how large of a area? Depending on how large of a area you may have to find another stub frame.
Replacement front stub would be best I think.
It is under driver seat area. I thought stub frame was ahead of firewall? Am I missing something?
I would replace the stub frame and replace all the suspension parts from PST while you have it apart. You'll never have to worry about it again.
Yes, it’s a unit that starts at the rear of the torsion bars.
This is for '69 and up but is a good illustration.
Here's a shot of one, don't know what year...
Thanks much! I misunderstood what the stub frame actually was.
Are the new ones being built a good choice?
Nobody makes new replacements, used is the only way to go.
You can't really tell how bad the rest of the frame is. If it is just that area I would repair it and keep driving.
I found this but the wife won’t go for me spending that much
Mopar C-Body Transformer 2x4 Frame and Suspension
I would agree with her.
Frames are out there, and for a few hundred you can find a decent one. @Wollfen has a good tutorial on how to replace it without pulling the motor. @71Polara383 might have something.
Start by reading this thread.
1969 - 1971 C body Stub Frame (subframe)
Different year but the concept is the same. I would be surprised if there was that much of a difference between 69 an earlier.
You found it! I was going to say, there is actually a new replacement, however they aren't cheap. If you're going to spend that much for the 2x4 one you may as well shell out the extra two or three grand for the tubular model. I also agree with your wife. The only thing I don't like about those is that they do away with the torsion bar system, and the price. It's nice to have the option though. I have to wonder how many, if any they've sold, for c bodies. How does the rest of the frame look? If that's the only bad spot, it can probably be repaired. Used stubs pop up from time to time on this site.
What Make, Year, and Model. Give us something to work with here Joseph. Good stub frames are out there for fair prices. Even if you have to travel for them, you're still out way less then 20% of what that guy wantz for new and it should still be clean of the rust worm, Jer
You should also check the attachment points at the base of the cowl and under the drivers seat, often the attachments on a badly rust stub are rusted as well. If the attachment points are still solid the stub can be replaced, it is a big job and a PIA but it is doable. Go with a solid used stub. If you can find a suitable donor car that would be ideal so you have everything in hand before you start. As mentioned above, this would be a good time to replace the rubber parts in the suspension and any worn ball joints etc. Much easier to do with the frame out of the car. You can rebuild the replacement stub while you drive your car. Good time to strip and paint the replacement stub as well. Also a good time to install the replacement steel brake lines if needed.
The rest isn’t too bad except for the front cross member where a brace is bolted in. It is really bad.
I may weld in new steel. Area is about 6” long.
68 Sport Fury.
That one spot is the worst.
But here are some pics of a bad place passenger side. A strut bolts in here and attaches below sway bar at other end. Pretty sure this car sat in a field for a while.
The front cross member is pretty vital to maintain alignment and steering stability. If that is rotted out you need a new stub.
See photo I just posted. Attaching one more.
How good are you at fabrication? I would go after the stub frame with a hammer and knock all the loose rusty metal off and see what you really have to work with. See how thin it is and how far it goes.