In many cases, one kit will cover a multitude of carburetor numbers as the gaskets and such are common to at least that many carb numbers. What generates the carb numbers is the carb's "calibration" (jets, metering rods, metering rod springs, choke pull-off setting, etc.) rather than changing the body items on the carb's architecture. In some cases, there CAN be some different holes in some of the gaskets, which is why you get several different ones in each kit, sometimes.
With those commonalities involved, the QUALITY of the kit becomes important for best long-term durability. What I term "OEM Level" durability. When Carter (who built the carb) was in business, I always got their kits for their carbs. Just as using a Rochester kit for a Rochester carb, or similarly with Ford. For the base gaskets, I'd always lean toward the thick, OEM-spec gaskets rather than the thinner ones most of the kits had in them, back then. Even if I had to get one from the dealer. BUT . . . that was when all of that stuff was "common" and readily-available.
In general, other than cleaning/soaking, all you'll be really improving is the gaskets (and how they might have deteriorated over time). By this point in time, I suspect there might be some wear on the throttle shafts/carb base plate interface. Which would mean that a clean/soak/re-gasket might not really address your suspected issues. This is where Dana@Woodruff would come in so that they can professionally address any possible other issues which are outside of the function of "a kit". There might also be some deposits deep in some of the fuel or air calibration circuits which might be restricted, which the normal soak/spray with carb cleaner night not remove, too.
You know how the engine's acting or not acting, so your judgment call.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67