carter 2bbl OEM replacement PN# 5-599 manual or vaccuum choke ?

[saylor]

Todays project - R&R the fuel delivery system from the mechanical fuel pump to the carb, including installing a reman carb.
Standard issue carter 2bbl 5-599. going on top of a stock '68 383 motor.

So the one I took off has a manual choke, on a wire, to a control under the dash - all addon stuff.
The new carb has a vacuum choke (I think,, its in the spot where the manual choke wire hooked up before - a little round diaphragm thing with a hose going to a carb vacuum port).

do I leave it - or remove it and go back to manual. does it matter?

Anyone?

Bhuler?


Thanks all -
- saylor

 

[commando1]

A manual choke with that tacky 98 cent pull/push knob under the dash looks kind of bush league whenever I see one.

< Sent from my tablet >

 

[tallhair]

A manual choke with that tacky 98 cent pull/push knob under the dash looks kind of bush league whenever I see one.

< Sent from my tablet >

Push / pull chokes may be bush league however they have their place and are extremely effective and I prefer them to other types of choke in certain situations but a weakness in the system is if the bracket is attached to the dash by a cheap, lightweight bracket that moves toward the driver when you pull or or moves away from driver when you push in on it. If you have a good solid bracket that doesn't move, or hardly moves it allows precise adjustment and control. Of course the rest of the system should be installed correctly and firmly to allow for positive movement in both directions and full control of opening and closing the choke correctly. Weak link IMO is the bracket under the dash or not having the cable move smoothly through the cable/hardwire casing.

I would agree that it shouldn't be necessary or desired on a nice luxury cruiser but on a hotted up 383/440 Mopar it has a place.

 

[saylor]

this is where the fuel pump goes... is that thing in there the pushrod? how on earth do I get the fuel pump arm under there? im not 100% sure that's a pushrod... I need some advice-for-dummies level advice please. it didn't feel like the old pump was under that thing,, old unit removed easily, and I didn't hear anything clunk or move or anything...

 

[saylor]

ok after a bunch of study,, that maybe is the pushrod. remove allen bolt, and pushrod is supposed to come out. check for wear. I expect mine is gonna be wore out. airtex PN # FP1021 and mopar MP P529569 pushrod ( 3.242").
I cant find one locally . .. gonna try some hot rod shops tomorrow I guess after I get this thing out of there.

 

[saylor]

oh yeah. its so shiny!

 

[70NPORT]

Just out of curiosity, why did you go with the 2bbl carb?

 

[saylor]

a few reasons:
my snorkel air cleaner will fit for sure
totally stock motor - not planning on a loper cam or anything like that
that 2bbl should be enough - im never gonna have this thing at 6k rpm or anything like that either.
cost of 4bbl carb + intake + headache vs. bolt on replacement

 

[70NPORT]

a few reasons:
my snorkel air cleaner will fit for sure
totally stock motor - not planning on a loper cam or anything like that
that 2bbl should be enough - im never gonna have this thing at 6k rpm or anything like that either.
cost of 4bbl carb + intake + headache vs. bolt on replacement

Gotcha. You forgot something else...gas mileage, that 2bbl will be stingier on gas. The ultimate revenge against OPEC.

 

[saylor]

good call there on that too! I was looking around on the interwebs before I bought this, and some site I saw had a bunch of maths with a bunch of volume calculations at various RPMs and CI size of the motor- how much volume of air you are displacing at X RPM,, and the 2 bbl fed a 383 c.i. pretty well until it got like over 5k RPM or something.

im headed outside now to see about that allen head bolt under the fuel pump . . .

 

[70NPORT]

good call there on that too! I was looking around on the interwebs before I bought this, and some site I saw had a bunch of maths with a bunch of volume calculations at various RPMs and CI size of the motor- how much volume of air you are displacing at X RPM,, and the 2 bbl fed a 383 c.i. pretty well until it got like over 5k RPM or something.

im headed outside now to see about that allen head bolt under the fuel pump . . .

Yeah, I hear you. I got some outside work to do that I've been putting off for awhile........for no good reason other than being lazy.

 

[commando1]

a few reasons:
my snorkel air cleaner will fit for sure
totally stock motor - not planning on a loper cam or anything like that
that 2bbl should be enough - im never gonna have this thing at 6k rpm or anything like that either.
cost of 4bbl carb + intake + headache vs. bolt on replacement

Finally. Common sense rises above the tide of insanity.

 

[saylor]

thanks commando . i ran my fuel lines the OEM route, but still wrapped it in 1000* sleeve . . .
carb is on, fuel pump is on, lines are run, no leakys.

For the fuel pump pushrod - it does not lift 'UP' vertically - it slides on the horizontal plane. dont ask how long i tried to pull up on it....
i was able to catch it with my thumbnail and slide it back, fuel pump dropped right in.

called the dodge shop for a replacement, and they ended up sending me to summit :/


right now im trying to learn about the 2bbl carb adjustment - it wont idle. it will run rough-ish, starts alot easier, but wont hold a low idle.

which screws do i start cranking on ??


also - after changing the fuel pump, the fuel stays 'up' now and does not drift back,, it was draining itself, like the fuel filter would go empty with the motor off. no mas problemo there.

 

[theos911]

The two screws from the front of the carb are idle fuel mixture adjustment. Whatever you do to one, do to the other. Counterclockwise/left is richer, clockwise/right is leaner.

 

[saylor]

we were out adjusting everything,, and when the engine got up to temp, it started starving again... i guess there is no way around the pushrod issue... ordered one from summit racing,, will be here next week. sigh.

CCA-4646

[h=2]COMP Cams 4646 - COMP Cams Fuel Pump Pushrods[/h]

 

[70NPORT]

we were out adjusting everything,, and when the engine got up to temp, it started starving again... i guess there is no way around the pushrod issue... ordered one from summit racing,, will be here next week. sigh.

CCA-4646

COMP Cams 4646 - COMP Cams Fuel Pump Pushrods

One thing I like about Summit (and Jegs) is that if you order something on a Monday morning before 11am 9x out of 10 it is on my doorstep by Wensday 5pm. Once I ordered a part 9:30am in the morning and it was delivered the next day with no extra charge. Gotta love that.

 

[saylor]

the old carb coming off...

 

[saylor]

the old fuel pump

 

[commando1]

we were out adjusting everything,, and when the engine got up to temp, it started starving again... i guess there is no way around the pushrod issue... ordered one from summit racing,, will be here next week. sigh.

CCA-4646

[h=2]COMP Cams 4646 - COMP Cams Fuel Pump Pushrods[/h]

Just for laughs, do it again and when it starts to starve, remove the gas cap and get back to me.

< Sent from my tablet >

 

[saylor]

ill try that in the morning for sure. the cap is not breathing, is that what you're thinking?

another something I learned. we were trying to make our idle and mix adjustments with an open carb. then for whatever reason my helper says 'what if we put the snorkel on?'

it revved up 1-2k before we even got it totally on there... who knew??!?

so we started adjusting the carb screws with the air cleaner and snorkel on the car. got it a lot smoother, but then it was surging for fuel,, and we packed it in, figuring that I needed the fuel pump pushrod.

with it surging we couldn't get it to keep an idle, and we were trying to set the damn idle screw, so we punted.