cbarge, the main conductor in the ammeter

[rsh1966vip]

cbarge, where do I find this "main conductor" that burns "open" on the ampmeter? Is it under the dash. Send a pic if possible. By the way we lived in Napanne for two years working for Goodyear. I would have sent this as a private message, but I cannot figure out how to do it.
thanks
rsh1966vip

 

[azblackhemi]

@cbarge This will alert him to this thread.

 

[cbarge]

cbarge, where do I find this "main conductor" that burns "open" on the ampmeter? Is it under the dash. Send a pic if possible. By the way we lived in Napanne for two years working for Goodyear. I would have sent this as a private message, but I cannot figure out how to do it.
thanks
rsh1966vip

The amneter gauge itself is the main conductor so to speak.
All battery power flows through it and when it shorts out the car is dead.
The bypass which I linked in your other thread you dont need to pull or crawl under the dash at all.
It will get her back up and running if that was the problem.
As others mentioned double check all battery connections and the bulkhead connector at firewall as process of elimination.
I have been around 66 67 68 Chryslers since I was 10 years old and had a few and still have a few C's at the shop.

To message me click on my avatar and click private message.
My settings have been fixed by moderators since the site glitch a while back.
More than happy to help.

 

[rsh1966vip]

Update on electrical problem. Most all of the information send to me was correct. The problem was a loose connection at the black wire under the dash at the ammeter. Very hard to get to, but once tighten we had power. My concern is that it will happen again. I quess I will wait and see. I am not crazy about the work around for the alternator to the relay to the battery, but I might need to use that fix if I have a re-occuring issue. Thanks for all the comment and good usable information.

rsh1966vip

 

[SPF Required]

Glad you are back on the road. FWIW, I don’t think the ammeter bypass is just a work around, based on my research, it also helps keep your car from becoming a smoldering pile of ash on the side of the road (at least that was my conclusion). There are lots of good discussions on this forum about this topic, reading other’s experiences might sway you into doing it as a proactive measure. But your call by all means.

 

[cbarge]

The problem was a loose connection at the black wire under the dash at the ammeter. Very hard to get to, but once tighten we had power. My concern is that it will happen again. I quess I will wait and see.

The loose connection tells me somebody was in there before.
Yes it is a ***** to get at even with or without pulling the dash---- and one of the reasons to do the simple underhood bypass.
Don't wait because the next time you may see smoke or even worse flames from that area.
I am not joking.
I know this all too well and seen cars burnt and junked that could be avoided from a simple add on.

 

[rsh1966vip]

OK, you guys have convinced me. I will drive it to my electrical experts shop and have him to the fix. That should remove all the electrical problems associated with the ammeter.
Now, I can look at other opportunities like improving the brake lights and turning signal intensity. Are you guys using the new LED bulbs?? Do they just slide in the old socket?
I would have posted my 67' running after the electrical fix however I do not think that I can upload a video...where is stated...upload a photo.

thanks
rsh1966vip

 

[SPF Required]

This will get you going on the led upgrades.

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/exterior-led-lighting-upgrade.

I am close to having done almost all the light bulbs in my ‘68 300. Inside and out (except the head lights). I even did all the instrument cluster lights when I had that out of the dash in 2020. I am really impressed with the results.