Change ignition 68 Fury

[CaravelleMan]

Hey guys,

I think my ignition went out, one day on a cruise we stopped to let another's car cool down, and went to restart and got nothing. We jumped the solenoid relay with a rod and that's the only way we are able to start her up. I replaced the solenoid relay and that didn't fix it. So now I have a new ignition, but I can't figure out how to free it from the dash, I can't remove any metal below it. Do I have to take pieces of the dash off?

 

[CaravelleMan]

Bah crap I put this on the wrong area, could a mod move it please? I won't make a duplicate one.

 

[Clover]

It’s a combo of reaching up behind for the switch while unscrewing the nut on the front. Loosen the nut first. Are you sure the switch is bad? It could be the neutral switch.

 

[Clover]

If you get +12v from the yellow wire at the relay, when ign switch is in “crank”, then the ign switch is good.

 

[CaravelleMan]

Well when I put it in neutral it doesn't start either. I heard that's how to tell, is that wrong? And thanks, I'll try to unscrew it like that. I do have a new neutral switch handy as well if that doesn't solve it.

 

[CaravelleMan]

If you get +12v from the yellow wire at the relay, when ign switch is in “crank”, then the ign switch is good.

Nice I will check that out!

 

[Clover]

The way to test the neutral switch (and its wire) is to ground the relay terminal at the terminal where the brown wire connects. That simulates a good switch.

 

[CaravelleMan]

The way to test the neutral switch (and its wire) is to ground the relay terminal at the terminal where the brown wire connects. That simulates a good switch.

Thank you! I was wondering how to test that too

 

[live4theking]

When you jump the relay to start it does everything else work fine; lights, turn signals, wipers...?

 

[Ccas]

If you are taking the ignition switch, cylinder and keys out, you first need to remove the cylinder and keys. There's a little hole in the face of the cylinder. You need to stick a paper clip in there and push while rotating the ignition cylinder counter clockwise and pulling back on the cylinder by holding the key. When the cylinder pops out, then the chrome nut on the dash will be able to unscrewed from the switch.

 

[CaravelleMan]

Everything does, except brake lights I got a burnt out fuse. I gotta order them.

 

[Big_John]

Wait... Just wait... Before you start throwing parts at it...

Do you have a starter problem or an ignition problem?

Ignition problem won't be solved by replacing the starter relay and vice-versa.

 

[CaravelleMan]

Already replaced the relay cause it was pretty cheap. The starter itself starts just fine when the relay is jumped. When I turn the key I dont get anything. It will only start with the key in run and the relay jumped.

 

[Clover]

If you are taking the ignition switch, cylinder and keys out, you first need to remove the cylinder and keys. There's a little hole in the face of the cylinder. You need to stick a paper clip in there and push while rotating the ignition cylinder counter clockwise and pulling back on the cylinder by holding the key. When the cylinder pops out, then the chrome nut on the dash will be able to unscrewed from the switch.

The ‘68 Mopars don’t work like a GM product. There is no little hole in the front. You have to remove the switch assembly before you can pull the ignition.

 

[Clover]

Nice I will check that out!

Run this test first.

 

[1970FuryConv]

If you get +12v from the yellow wire at the relay, when ign switch is in “crank”, then the ign switch is good.

Agree, you can save a lot of money with electrical testing before swapping parts. If you're wondering, I'm just like everybody else. Same mistake throwing parts at problems and then learned to save $ as I went along and started doing the right tests. Best of luck!

 

[Ccas]

The ‘68 Mopars don’t work like a GM product. There is no little hole in the front. You have to remove the switch assembly before you can pull the ignition.

what!? yikes. I have had hundreds of these switches and cylinders in my hand. I never noticed they didn't have the hole.

Sorry guys!

 

[Ccas]

I have a new 1968 switch if you need one. I'd send it to you for free if you want to at least eliminate it as a problem.

 

[Clover]

I’m sorry I’m not there to help. This problem literally takes five minutes to diagnose if you know what to do. Run the two tests I gave you and report back.

 

[Big_John]

Already replaced the relay cause it was pretty cheap. The starter itself starts just fine when the relay is jumped. When I turn the key I dont get anything. It will only start with the key in run and the relay jumped.

Semantics.
When you said "ignition", I thought "no spark".

As described, two very simple tests will tell you where to start looking. The neutral switch is a very likely culprit.