Chrysler 300 C 5.7 Hemi donor

BLIMP

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Last week I picked up a 2006 model that was in an accident with a deer. It's been sitting 2 years. Was told it ran and drove normally with no issues before the accident. 168k on the odometer. With a fresh battery I can hear the fuel pump prime in the ON position, but turning the key to START does absolutely nothing. No starter noise or clicking. I can spin the engine manually with a breaker bar.
I guess I'm starting this thread because I'd love to hear opinions on this drivetrain. Not even sure what I plan on doing with it yet. More than likely stuff it in a fuselage wagon or coupe. I'm not very educated about this subject, so any threads/pics/articles/links shared here would be greatly appreciated.
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On a side note, a fuselage Imperial trunk lid makes a nice hood LoL
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440Chrysler

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I hear that modern cars will shut off the ignition or the injectors if the computer senses that it was in an accident. You might need to give the computer a reset, if it gives you the option. A scan tool might give you the option.
 

CBODY67

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Seems like that Mopar Perf had 4bbl intakes for those motors when they first appeared. Plus an ignition kit for it too? Allegedly full-street rod-able with no computers?

Many of the newer motors seem to have less low-end torque than the prior V-8s, which makes the 5-8-speed automatics (with their generally 4.5+ low gear) a needed thing for best performance. There have been a few Gen III Hemi transplants, as in the '68 Fury III that a then-current forum member did. I PM'd him about what it took to do it and it sounded pretty easy. Just need the mounts for the engine and a TF with a LA-motor bolt pattern on it. The radiator mount was easy to do, using current Cherger mounting. The worst thing was that the modern cooling system uses a pressurized coolant jug, which is where the pressure cap is. Unless you do something else in that area.

There are also a few threads in here on using manual pressure switches with the 8-speed automatic rather than using a powertrain module to run transmission things. BUT there are some expensive adapters for B/RB 8-speeds, as I recall. Seems like somebody makes a GM THM700 automatic to go behind the Gen III Hemis? Or a beefed THM200R-4?

Think of the FUN you could have with a carb'd and distributor'd Gen III Hemi in that fuselage wagon, as cruise attendees didn't know what kind of engine it was! It would probably take up about as much space in that fuselage engine bay as a LA motor might, I suspect.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

65sporty

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Get a scan tool and check codes. Is there a theft light on? That will be a great drivetrain donor to a project car, with the whole car you can swap as little or as much as you want. I would use the engine, trans, computer, harness, try to fit radiator and fans, but I work on modern car every day. The way Cbody67 suggested is a easier method. I look forward to seeing what you do with it.
 

savoy64

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look at the shifter plate----if it is ajar look inside to see a rod with a pink swivel------i got a similar unit the pink plastic had broken and it is common to break-----move the rod forward or back and try the key-----the same breakage will make it difficult to shut off thereby draining the battery-----drove it around for a while by jiggleing that rod and disconnecting the battery later.....
 

bigmoparjeff

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A friend of mine is going to be installing a Gen III hemi in a 1969 Sport Satellite convertible. It will be a slow process, as the car needs extensive rust repair before it's ready for any of the mechanicals to be installed.

According to him it's pretty much a bolt-in affair with all the aftermarket support that's available for the swap. Holley makes everything he needs from wiring harnesses to a complete exhaust system. Much of that should work just fine on a C body too. I think he's planning to use a 1990's four speed overdrive trans that won't require much modification of the trans tunnel. The 2006 trans probably requires a bit of trans tunnel surgery.

Jeff
 

440Chrysler

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I think he's planning to use a 1990's four speed overdrive trans that won't require much modification of the trans tunnel. The 2006 trans probably requires a bit of trans tunnel surgery.

Are The block for these engines is fairly backwards compatible? What transmission is the 1990s transmission that he's using? I wonder if it could bolt up to the small block 727s.
 

polara71

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These modern Hemi engines really makes you consider a transplant. The reliability with the power they create is terrific. Throw on efficiency and its hard to stay old school.
 

BLIMP

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Thanks for the replies and suggestions so far. Like I said I really need to educate myself on this, all comments are appreciated.
These modern Hemi engines really makes you consider a transplant. The reliability with the power they create is terrific. Throw on efficiency and its hard to stay old school.
Especially when a person is acquiring a solid roller that's worthy of being put back on the road :D
 

bigmoparjeff

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Are The block for these engines is fairly backwards compatible? What transmission is the 1990s transmission that he's using? I wonder if it could bolt up to the small block 727s.

I believe that 3rd Gen Hemi uses the small block bell housing pattern.

I don't know if you need a special flex plate or special torque converter.

Jeff
 

bigmoparjeff

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These modern Hemi engines really makes you consider a transplant. The reliability with the power they create is terrific. Throw on efficiency and its hard to stay old school.

The only real negative that I can think of with these engines is that they aren't all that attractive. With the dual plugs per cylinder there's nothing you can do to clean up the valve covers and make them look a bit like an older engine, and the plastic intake is really lacking in the style department too. You have to rely on covers to hide all that stuff and make your engine compartment look nice. I haven't really looked into it, but I would guess that there are some off the shelf parts available to dress things up. Of course, for someone just looking to build a reliable driver, the looks shouldn't be a big deal.

You do need to be wary of the cam and lifter issues on the 3rd Gen. I don't know if it's all years or just certain ones with the ticking problems. It's probably best to get your engine from a running vehicle so that you know you have a good one. My friend bought a cheap and rusty, 47K mile Durango as a donor for his project.

Jeff
 

BigblueC

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You do need to be wary of the cam and lifter issues on the 3rd Gen

There were cam wiping issues that I think was associated with the early VVT engines, which this one might be. The early 5.7 had valve spring issues 03-04. Then all 5.7s up to '09 had common issues with dropping seats. My '05 (non-VVT) has had no issues so far.

The good news is that the aftermarket has stepped up lately with Holley getting into the gen III Hemi, and the above issues can be addressed fairly easily during the swap.
 

savoy64

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the only issue with a early small block flex plate is the offset hole----the 5.7 has 4 equal spaced holes------elongate one hole and you are in----there is a flexplate made to adapt for $$$------the 5.7 is a small block the old 392 also a small block the big hemi heads just make them look really big....its bolts up to any small block tranny--727--518--500--46re
 

CBODY67

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From youTube videos on such, lifter issues on 6.4L due to extended idling (think fleet use), the cam lobe issues are specific to certain model years with VVT, but the VVT can be disabled, and the valve seat dropping issues are related to running the engine after it gets too hot (as in coolant level low or coolant lost). Each gen has a code name, too, as "Eagle" for one", which can also relate to engine size, possibly.

A good bit to educate yourself on, it seems, but I also understand that many of the issues only affect a small percentage of the total engines built in each generation.

Happy shopping!
CBODY67
 

BigblueC

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the valve seat dropping issues are related to running the engine after it gets too hot (as in coolant level low or coolant lost)

My cousin had this happen. He ran his '06 5.7 hot (unchecked coolant leak) and it dropped a seat. That's how and when I learned about the issue. There are factory service bulletins from the mid-late 2000s warning of the issue. Apparently the pre-eagle heads were machined wrong (slightly too large seat pocket) and these heads are prone to dropping the seat with excessive heat, or once the head has been pulled the seats are likely to shift and start falling out. At least that's what I remember reading.

This issue covered all three pre-eagle head ('09) 5.7s. Basically, it seems if you do any significant work to one of these engines you need to pull the heads and have the seats reworked for safety. Other wise they seem to be good engines.
 

75LandYacht

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Good to know readings.. I don’t own a newer hemi or an older one for that matter, but it’s good to know the Achilles of these engines.
 

polara71

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Good to know readings.. I don’t own a newer hemi or an older one for that matter, but it’s good to know the Achilles of these engines.

That timing chain was a recall on those. They mentioned it in the article but not real clear. My 2010 5.7 was a beast, would lightem up from a stand still and sometime get a little sideways shifting. Obviously no 6.1 or 6.4 but a great all around street car and engine.
 
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