Coil Going Bad? Voltage Regulator?

Electrical & Ignition

  1. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    '65 Chrysler 300 with 383, Petronix Ignitor I Module and Coil. Ballast Resistor is in place with the guts removed and a correct gauge wire soldered in place effectively bypassing the Ballast. Solid state Voltage Regulator.

    I was driving the other day, got on it a little and the car just died. No sputtering, just died. I pulled over and it fired right up. Went about my drive but the car seemed a little sluggish. Today, I was getting the car ready for a car show tonight and put my volt meter on both sides of the ballast. I'm getting 13.3-13.4 volts in and 13.1-13.2 out to the coil. Those seem high to me. Battery is charging at 14.2. Initially, I thought I had a coil that was starting to go. Now i'm thinking I may have a faulty Voltage Regulator. Thoughts?
     
  2. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    I would say a coil.

    Doesn't hurt to have a spare anyways.
     
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  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    That voltage sounds about right to me.
     
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  4. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Thanks, guys!
     
  5. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    If it is not the coil, most likely the petronix module is starting to short after it starts to warm up. The throttle position should have nothing to do with the ignition crapping out. For your own piece of mind, also check the fuel filter as you could also have sucked the carb dry when you cracked the throttle.

    Dave
     
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  6. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Thanks, Dave. I thought about that but wouldn't it have sputtered and not flat out died if it was was fuel related? I've drained the bowls on the GTO's Tri Power before and the symptoms were much different.

    The increased throttle could have certainly been coincidental.
     
  7. polarus

    polarus Senior Member

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    If you haven't already check all connections to make sure they're tight. I had a similar problem that was a loose wire + side of coil.
     
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  8. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Well-Known Member

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    The coil might be overheating. You're not supposed to short across the BR terminals to bypass it when using an Ignitor-I unless you're running a high resistance coil.
     
  9. rapidtrans

    rapidtrans Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I had two Pertronix units and coils quit on me the same way. Car cold started fine but as motor warmed up car became sluggish eventually quitting as motor reached normal operating temperature. No spark trying to restart it leaving me stranded miles from home. Started cold in the morning then quit again as it warmed up.
    Installed the old points, condenser and coil and have had no problems since.
     
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  10. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Wouldn't the Ignitor Coil be high resistence?
     
  11. 413

    413 Active Member

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    Why do so many of the drivability threads all have a pertronix ignition? Is there a correlation? Seems like it

    Your voltage regulator is fine.

    You are better off with points anyway. Just make sure they are good and the cam is lubed up and not dry. Many trouble free miles with points
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019
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  12. Mike66Chryslers

    Mike66Chryslers Well-Known Member

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    They sell both, a 1.5 ohm and a 3 ohm model.
     
  13. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    If the coil is the wrong one it will probably get hot enough fry eggs if overheating is the issue. A lot of the after market electronic ignitions fail, I personally think two issues cause it: 1.) Cheap ChiCom electronics. 2.) Poor connections to the ground or on the hot side. Electronics hate static.

    Dave
     
  14. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Most of the time an engine that is sucking the carb dry will start to sputter or misfire, but not always. A clogged filter will starve the engine enough to make it quit. If the filter is not completely blocked, enough fuel pressure remains with the engine off to trickle thru and fill or partially fill the carb bowl so the engine will again start. This is mostly for diagnostic purposes to eliminate fuel as a potential cause. Most likely the module or coil is failing.

    Dave
     
  15. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I just got off the line with Pertronix Tech Support and gave them the rundown on my setup and they confirmed I have the correct coil for my application; gutted Ballast and all.
     
  16. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Do I see points back in your future?

    Dave
     
  17. rags

    rags Well-Known Member

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    my crappy '65. DSCN0573.JPG runs perfect. DSCN0574.JPG running or not, yours is still beautiful.
     
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  18. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    It does not look that bad to me. You also have a quality low tech ignition that is easily repaired miles from home. I carry a spare set of points and condenser plus a screw driver, pliers and a feeler gauge in a plastic bag in the glove box of my C-Bodies.

    Dave
     
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  19. rexus31

    rexus31 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Nope. Drove it to a local cruise tonight without issue; ran perfect. I doubt the coil is overheating as it was 165* with the infrared thermometer when we parked. It's possible it was just a fluke thing that happened. Who knows.

    Side note, first cruise I've been to in years and I won "Ruby's Best" which I guess is their best car of the night. Cool that it can still get recognition even 10 years after it was restored.
     
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  20. Kern Dog

    Kern Dog Member

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    Good for you, man!
    Most of us are not trophy hunters but it is nice when one finds us!
     
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