Constant 12v feed for distributor

[GoneLoco99]

Am I able to use the “battery” peg on the solenoid, as a 12v power source for my distributor?
Pictures show my wiring diagram for my distributor.
Thank you

 

[CBODY67]

The distributor power should be "switched" rather than "constant". "Constant" would mean it was hot all of the time, rather than only when the ignition switch made it hot.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[GoneLoco99]

The distributor power should be "switched" rather than "constant". "Constant" would mean it was hot all of the time, rather than only when the ignition switch made it hot.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

I thought that too. So would you have a good recommendation? Thank you

 

[CBODY67]

The 2nd posted wiring schematic seems to indicate what you might need. End result is that the distributor electronics are only working when the engine is.

In reality, to me, you need to use a (probably supplied with the distributor) harness which goes to the ign coil from the distributor, attached as indicated. Then ground that harness to the intake manifold, possibly with the same bolt which holds the coil/bracket to the intake manifold?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

You can also use the battery lead off the starter relay if you run a second relay that is activated by the ignition circuit and powered by the battery lead if you are worried about getting clean power to the electronic ignition. Most of the time as Willis has suggested, use the supplied harness that hooks to the coil lead. The electronic ignition usually does not draw all that much power. You need to determine if the electronic system you have is designed for continuous operation at 12v. The factory setup used a ballast resistor that was bypassed for a 12v start and ran lower voltage with the key in the "run" position. It would fry itself running at a constant 12v. If the system is designed for 12v continuous operation, just bypass the ballast resistor to the electronics, you still need reduced voltage to the coil or it will over heat.

Dave

 

[macr0w]

You should already have a dark blue wire running from your key to your coil via the resistor.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

You should already have a dark blue wire running from your key to your coil via the resistor.

Not hot during cranking, the brown is. If you don't need the ballast (per the original posters drawing), then you could jumper them together.
Even with a ballast you will get a reduced voltage to the blue back-feeding through the ballast.


Alan

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

Not hot during cranking, the brown is. If you don't need the ballast (per the original posters drawing), then you could jumper them together.
Even with a ballast you will get a reduced voltage to the blue back-feeding through the ballast.


Alan

At the BR is a common place to connect power for an electronic ignition system though. My Mopar ECU is powered from a tap off the BR. Heck, the Pertronix I on my other car is powered right off the coil, so that's after the BR under normal circumstances. (I didn't wire it that way, previous owner did, but it always works fine so I didn't change it.)

 

[GoneLoco99]

Not hot during cranking, the brown is. If you don't need the ballast (per the original posters drawing), then you could jumper them together.
Even with a ballast you will get a reduced voltage to the blue back-feeding through the ballast.


Alan

I do not need, and won’t be using the ballast. So I will be wiring those 2 wires together.
After I do that, do I run a wire from that point, to the positive side of my coil?
Thank you.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I do not need, and won’t be using the ballast. So I will be wiring those 2 wires together.
After I do that, do I run a wire from that point, to the positive side of my coil?
Thank you.

At that point it doesn't matter where on the blue/brown wires you tap into.


Alan

 

[GoneLoco99]

At that point it doesn't matter where on the blue/brown wires you tap into.


Alan

But I will get the 12V I need, to supply my coil/distributor?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

But I will get the 12V I need, to supply my coil/distributor?

The brown/blue wires will have full system voltage with the key on.


Alan

 

[GoneLoco99]

The brown/blue wires will have full system voltage with the key on.


Alan

Thank you sir. Much appreciated