Converting for power brakes to manual

Pana.Mopar

Pana.Mopar

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Hi All,
I want to convert my 68 Polara from Boosted Brakes to Manual brakes (it is a disc/drum car). What is needed? I'm assuming an adjustable brake pushrod. Anything else required to do this?
 
lead-boots.jpg


But seriously... A parts manual would be your friend here. The ratio on the pedal is generally different so the pedal assemblies may be the place to start comparing part numbers. You basically have a longer "throw" for more leverage, so looking at what's different and how that is achieved is what you want. Remember that they didn't offer a manual disc brake option (to my knowledge) so you are going to have to sift through the drum brake sections to get what you want.

Download a parts manual here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Parts & Accessories Books
 
The pedal and its mount plate are different. Standard master cylinder usually has a smaller bore as this makes braking easier. The next question is why would you want to do this? Factory setups were power assisted for a reason. Discs take a lot more hydraulic pressure to stop the car effectively. Ford offered manual discs on the Mustang and they stopped like they used ball bearings instead of brake pads, it took extreme pedal pressure to stop those cars and one's leg got really tired driving one of those cars in traffic.

Dave
 
Davea Lux said:
The pedal and its mount plate are different. Standard master cylinder usually has a smaller bore as this makes braking easier. The next question is why would you want to do this? Factory setups were power assisted for a reason. Discs take a lot more hydraulic pressure to stop the car effectively. Ford offered manual discs on the Mustang and they stopped like they used ball bearings instead of brake pads, it took extreme pedal pressure to stop those cars and one's leg got really tired driving one of those cars in traffic.

Dave
Click to expand...
I own a 65 Mustang that has factory manual disc / drum brakes and I don’t think it is terrible to stop.
I have changed the master cylinder to a 2 chamber unit, but it is still manual.
I have changed the rotors to slotted / perforated and the pads to newer materials, but am still using the Kelsey-Hayes 4 stainless steel pistons. I like the performance and have ran it on several open track events at Willow Springs big track.
 
Good luck with this and please update us on how it feels.
A parts list of all the components would be helpful to the members wanting disc brakes without having to swap over to power setup.
 
O.K.
Couple of Points.
1) Mustang is Roughly Half ? the Weight.
2) Mustang is Far More Manoeuvrable, Throwing a C Body about in an Emergency is Not an Easy Matter.
I owned an Unboosted 65 Mustang 50 Yrs ago & from Memory it wasn't All That Brilliant in the Braking Department (Comparing similar Falcon Sedans w/ Boosted Discs)
And Lastly I'll Repeat Davea Lux's Question WHY ?
For the Last 50 + Years Boosted Discs have Been Pretty Much Satisfactory and in some Cases Excellent.
I have Owned a Number of 69-72 Dodge / Plymouth Furies & in My Opinion the Boosted Kelsey Hayes Single Piston Sliding Caliper Set Ups are as Good as Most Modern
Braking Systems. (Plus Simple, Cheap & Easy to Maintain).
(My 2c Worth) Tony.M
 
69PHOENIX said:
O.K.
Couple of Points.
1) Mustang is Roughly Half ? the Weight.
2) Mustang is Far More Manoeuvrable, Throwing a C Body about in an Emergency is Not an Easy Matter.
I owned an Unboosted 65 Mustang 50 Yrs ago & from Memory it wasn't All That Brilliant in the Braking Department (Comparing similar Falcon Sedans w/ Boosted Discs)
And Lastly I'll Repeat Davea Lux's Question WHY ?
For the Last 50 + Years Boosted Discs have Been Pretty Much Satisfactory and in some Cases Excellent.
I have Owned a Number of 69-72 Dodge / Plymouth Furies & in My Opinion the Boosted Kelsey Hayes Single Piston Sliding Caliper Set Ups are as Good as Most Modern
Braking Systems. (Plus Simple, Cheap & Easy to Maintain).
(My 2c Worth) Tony.M
Click to expand...
My Mustang weighs about 3200 lbs, about 75 - 80% of a C body.
Agreed on the manueverability, except I have added the Shelby quick steering arm, which coupled with the power steering box, reduces the steering ratio to 19:1 overall (stock power steering Mustangs had an overall steering ratio of 22:1 and manual steering was 27:1).

I agree that the big piston calipers on the power disc C bodies is comparable to modern vehicles.
 
Why ask why? This question comes up every now and then, as it did recently with an all drum car, and it's always, why, why, why? Stubs answer is always the answer (in this particular case).
 
3C's & a D? said:
Why ask why? This question comes up every now and then, as it did recently with an all drum car, and it's always, why, why, why? Stubs answer is always the answer (in this particular case).
Click to expand...

I hope that means I wasn't being a smart *** about it? It's hard to read sarcasm in words.
 
I harvested a manual pedal set-up from my parts car. Power brakes are good, but I plan on modding things enough that vacuum at idle will be a concern. With poor idle vacuum, manual brakes are superior. So there is one reason I can think of...
 
Room for turbo plumbing is another...:thumbsup:

I've run manual disc for years. Yes you need to plant your foot when needed. I always found the oem system over boosted and touchy/twitchy.

I even ran manual disc for a few years with the power pedal until I found a manual one. You do want some muscle in that operation, wouldn't suggest it for most.
 
I won’t even tell you my first experience with manual drum brakes 4 speed car, then switching to 71 PDBs auto car.
 
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