converting to dual piston Master Cylinder

newport64

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so I am in the process of getting the brakes fixed on my newport and in the process learned about the risks of running a single piston master cylinder.

So I decided to make a new thread to get input/advice on the recommended and easiest way to upgrade my system to a dual piston system while keeping my manual drum brakes on all 4 wheels.

As far as I have learned from several members, to upgrade I need:

a 1967+ Master Cylinder with the same bore size
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=131323M&p=rock
question about this is will my current push rod mount to the back of this fine? anyone done this?
this is the 1964 single MC that my car would need, see mounting for comparison...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=309029&cc=1327328


separate the brake lines using this
http://inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK241.htm
this will allow me to run the front brakes separate from the rear.
question on this is, I dont need a proportioning valve since I am keeping manual brakes, correct? I assume this is used for power brakes, if not what does the proportioning valve do?

found this sketch from another user, credit to 300rag
http://s22.photobucket.com/user/300Rag/media/assorted/9f59f9f7-1.jpg.html
if I follow his method, will the brakes work correctly as his method doesnt use, the valve posted in the link above.

I havent ordered any parts yet as I want to double check with the experienced users here. let me know if Im pretty on point here or if I am missing anything.

thanks!
 
just bolt it up and re run the brake lines. ur car already has that distribution block. run the front line into the existing block. plug the port there the rear line was. run a new line for the rear brakes and with a coupler contect to the orginal rear line
 
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just bolt it up and re run the brake lines. ur car already has that distribution block. run the front line into the existing block. plug the port there the rear line was. run a new line for the rear brakes and with a coupler contect to the orginal rear line

Or, he could use one of these...:

http://inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK241.htm

...so he doesn't have to run a new line.
 
Personaly I'd get a dristubution block out of a 67+ car and put it in and fit al lthe lines like the factory, these are brakes, not a place to be cheap or adapt or have unnessasary fittings and parts.

Just my opinion.

Alan
 
Personaly I'd get a dristubution block out of a 67+ car and put it in and fit al lthe lines like the factory, these are brakes, not a place to be cheap or adapt or have unnessasary fittings and parts.

Just my opinion.

Alan

I agree.
Just get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-72-Mopar...Brass-Block-Proportioning-Valve-/190820454867

$T2eC16R,!)8E9s4l7c75BR(EcSdz8Q~~60_35.JPG


and this:

01.jpg


and do this:

25frqeh.jpg


If you have front disk brakes, you need a disk brake master cylinder.
If you have front drum brakes you need a drum brake master cylinder.
 
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I agree.
Just get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-72-Mopar...Brass-Block-Proportioning-Valve-/190820454867

$T2eC16R,!)8E9s4l7c75BR(EcSdz8Q~~60_35.JPG


and this:

01.jpg


and do this:

25frqeh.jpg


If you have front disk brakes, you need a disk brake master cylinder.
If you have front drum brakes you need a drum brake master cylinder.

what is the difference between this http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-72-Mopar...Brass-Block-Proportioning-Valve-/190820454867 and this http://inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK241.htm

if they essentially will accomplish the same thing for my needs, which will separate the brake lines correct?
 
The factory one has the brake switch and depending on which one you get also be setup for disc brakes.
The other one may require other parts to make it work.
You can't go wrong with the waty the factory did it and will be virtualy a bolt-in project, yes it cost more but it is the right way to do it.

Alan
 
what is the brake switch for? also my newport will not have disck brakes at least for now, it will be all manual drum brakes.
 
The brake switch is for a warning light to tell you that you've lost pressure on front or rear systems. It works on a little shuttle type valve that connects both systems. When pressure fails, the shuttle goes to the low side and trips the light. If all is right, the shuttle stays in the center and doesn't trip the light.

It can give you a little early warning if you're having a failure. It's really the only reason for the distribution block.
 
The distribution block Stan has pictured is a combo valve because on the left side is the proportioning valve, the section to the right is the switch. Check on your line to rear and see if it has one, this is suppose to get the fronts to lock first if the rears lockfirst ca.will spin. if you don't have one you might not need it depends on wheel.cyl and swept areas of lining. In truth all cars could probably use one if you have to run a new line to rear I would put one an adjustable proportioning valve in, summit less than 40, if your not going to replace line to rear and there is not one or a factory one is in there leave it plumb straight to front port on master I.e. union to a short piece coil near cylinder for body flex. Unless you really want the light that comes on after the pedal goes to floor you really do not need switch.
 
They make Factory distribution blocks for all drums, basically the same across all Chrysler products.

Alan
 
I haven't had any issue using the Inline Tube distribution block for my application on my '65. I believe proportioning valves are only used in disk/drum combo set ups.
 
On my 65 Newport w/ power drum brakes, I changed to a dual MC, and the same for my 65 Dart & 64 Valiant. I did like the schematic above (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/300Rag/media/assorted/9f59f9f7-1.jpg.html ), re-using the factory "distribution block".

Details: The fittings you need are all "inverted flare", which you can buy in bubble packs at Autozone. Install a "1/4 M to 3/16 F" adapter in the top port to use a new 3/16" tubing (all later brakes). Your MC tube is 1/4". Do not screw a 3/16" tube directly, even though there are tube nuts that will fit that port. It would leak. Install a 3/16" M plug in the rear port. Connect a new 3/16" tube to your rear line w/ a 3/16" F coupler.

All manual MC's I have seen come with the pedal rod. You can even use a modern aluminum MC, using a "2-bolt to 4-bolt" adapter ($35 ebay). I used one from a 95-99 Breeze w/ ABS on my 3 Mopars, to stay consistent (2 on boosters, one manual). Mine has a 7/8"D bore, which works good for manual brakes. I recall that 1"D was used in 65 for both power and manual, but check rockauto.

The comments above are correct that you only require a proportioning valve for a disk/drum setup. Without one, the rears will lock up first and the rear can spin around. Manual brake cars (my 69 Dart) had a pressure imbalance switch in the distribution block. It lights a lamp on the dash (you don't have) if the spool ever gets off-center. My pedal went to the floor in my 69 Dart and I never saw a light. I suspect the spool rusted into place in most cars. Disk cars had a "combination block" with the imbalance switch, a rear proportioning valve (decreases line pressure) and "metering valve" (held off front disk actuation to give rear shoes time to expand). If you ever change to front disks, you can add an adjustable prop valve in series with your rear tube (<$30 ebay).

A few photos of my 65 Newport. Not sure if my distribution block is correct. It wasn't bolted to the frame and the hole doesn't seem to orient it correctly. I could have just used a 3/16" flare T instead.

While attaching the photos, I noticed that I previously posted my setup (I should have searched first).
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...adng-brakes-to-dual-reservoir-master-cylinder

Distribution block.jpg


alum MC.jpg
 
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The rod pulls out of the piston the is a rubbergrommit that holds it into piston may take some tugging by the lots of your stuff. The rusty part pulls out of greenish looking part
 
What's the reco on brand for MC? Rock auto has Cardone, Dorman and Raybestos for around the same price
 
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