Cooling liquid type?

[Istvan]

Hi Guys,

I read a lot of comments on other places. Could you tel me the cooling liquid type for 1972 Chrysler Newport 440 engine type and materials? I need an exact type, because I am in EU and need to find the brand for that type. Other question, what can I use for engine cooling system cleaning and flush? Do you have a suggested video or doc that I can read or watch?

Thanks

 

[FURYGT]

Hi Guys,

I read a lot of comments on other places. Could you tel me the cooling liquid type for 1972 Chrysler Newport 440 engine type and materials? I need an exact type, because I am in EU and need to find the brand for that type. Other question, what can I use for engine cooling system cleaning and flush? Do you have a suggested video or doc that I can read or watch?

Thanks

As for coolant, you MUST use the standard green coolant made for older cars. The modern and long life coolants are not compatible with the brass heater core in your car and will cause it to leak.

For a coolant flush, Prestone may still make a tee that you install into the inlet heater hose that comes with a spout to put on the radiator opening. There are a number of coolant flush/cleaning additives that you can buy including one made be Prestone and another that is called something like Evap-o-rust. You will need a water source with a garden hose that has good pressure to do this right and you will a coolant drain pan and many large jugs to fill with the old coolant and what gets flushed out. By using the inlet to the heater core you get a complete coolant system backflush. I am sure that you can find a video on You Tube if needed. You may want to buy a 1972 Chrysler Factory Service Manual on a CD as this should give you instructions.

Good luck.

 

[CBODY67]

Yes, just the basic "green" ethylene-glycol coolant. As other "better" and brand-specific coolants have emerged, even "universal" coolants, the old green coolant has kind of been forgotten about, it seems, but it's still around. I suspect you can find that in Europe.

The green coolant needs to be changed every 1-2 years, as a part of normal maintenance. Reason is that E-G "eats" the solder that holds the radiator and heater core tanks to their cores. So it has an additive package to keep that from happening. As the additive package ages, it loses its ability to prevent the solder being degraded. So yearly changes to keep things fresh. I found that in a BASF pamphlet in the earlier 1980s, at a Lincoln-Mercury dealer (as Mercury was using the German Ford Capri for its captive import line, back then), which theu sold.

As to "flush" operations. Remember that when the scale is removed, it might have degraded the block core plugs, such that when the scale/rust is removed, a thin spot is left, which can then later seep/leak. Similar with heater and radiator cores. So, you might use it gently rather than aggressively. If the block is very bad, might be best to remove the block core plugs, after the flush, and further clean the block passages and then install new core plugs. As the rear of the block is the lowest point of the block, as installed, that's usually where most of the accumulation will be. Brass core plugs are available for further durability improvements.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

As to "flush" operations. Remember that when the scale is removed, it might have degraded the block core plugs, such that when the scale/rust is removed, a thin spot is left, which can then later seep/leak. Similar with heater and radiator cores. So, you might use it gently rather than aggressively. If the block is very bad, might be best to remove the block core plugs, after the flush, and further clean the block passages and then install new core plugs. As the rear of the block is the lowest point of the block, as installed, that's usually where most of the accumulation will be. Brass core plugs are available for further durability improvements.

Yea, I'm not one for doing the reverse flushes or worse yet, the flush with some caustic compound.

If the coolant looks dirty, I think drain, refill with water, run it around the block a couple times and repeat until the drained water is clear. Then refill with antifreeze and call it a day.

 

[RemCharger]

As mentioned, best case scenario is to pull the rear L+R frost plugs and clean the crap out.

 

[Istvan]

As for coolant, you MUST use the standard green coolant made for older cars. The modern and long life coolants are not compatible with the brass heater core in your car and will cause it to leak.

For a coolant flush, Prestone may still make a tee that you install into the inlet heater hose that comes with a spout to put on the radiator opening. There are a number of coolant flush/cleaning additives that you can buy including one made be Prestone and another that is called something like Evap-o-rust. You will need a water source with a garden hose that has good pressure to do this right and you will a coolant drain pan and many large jugs to fill with the old coolant and what gets flushed out. By using the inlet to the heater core you get a complete coolant system backflush. I am sure that you can find a video on You Tube if needed. You may want to buy a 1972 Chrysler Factory Service Manual on a CD as this should give you instructions.

Good luck.

Thanks for the help! I found the coolant here.

 

[Istvan]

As mentioned, best case scenario is to pull the rear L+R frost plugs and clean the crap out.

Thanks for the help, I will do that. I have already ordered the new plugs. Thanks.