crushed oilpan

swisherred

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The previous owner pushed a jack up through the bottom of the oil pan in my 67 newport 383. They JB welded the hole shut and it doesnt leak, but I am pulling the engine for other work as well...so do I hammer it out and weld up the hole (I am a fabricator/welder) or should I order a new/used pan? If replacing it....which one do I need? Im assuming I might need to replace the oil pickup as well...its pushed in about 1".
 
187 2532186 1967-1972 C 383 400 440 Strainer 2532264 is what info i can find, but this doesnt tell me much for aftermarket suppliers
 
Mopar had different pans for different style bodies. It should be stamped on the pan, 3 digits. I'm sure your pan will be body style specific. Good Luck
 
Stock, nothing special 383? If the pan is in overall good condition, beat it back into shape and weld it up after you clean out all traces of the JB Weld.

Make sure the pickup didn't get bent and be sure to check the pickup to bottom of the pan clearance.

Kevin
 
any idea what the clearance is supposed to be?
With a stock Mopar pickup, the pickup should touch the bottom of the pan. Emphasis on the word "stock".
MN1075.jpg



An aftermarket pickup with the strainer screen on the bottom needs a 1/4-3/8" clearance.

305s.jpg
 
Don't forget to add a Mopar Perf windage tray kit while things are apart. For good measure.

CBODY67
 
In not so many technical terms, Windage trays basically reduce the swirl of the swirling air and oil vapors/spray that are caused by the fast-moving components in the lower end of your engine. It helps with a whole number of things, but typically they're installed in the name of HP and heat reduction.
 
As above, there's a whirling vortex of oil mist which is in the crankcase when the engine is running. The "circulation" caused by the spinning crankshaft counterweights within that environment. The windage tray (and related "scrapers") funnel that whirling oil/air mixture back into the oil pan so it's available for the oil pickup to send to the oil pump.

Historically, the B/RB engines were (in their earlier times, from what I heard back then) for "kicking out" the first quart of oil after an oil change. After that, the oil level would remain somewhat constant. In more recent times, I learned that this must have been when the normal B/RB oil change was 6qts w/filter, rather than the later 5qts. Some claim the depth of the oil pans didn't change, just the dipsticks to read correctly for the 5qt oil w/filter change.

I remember that when we got the '66 Newport (when the '67s came out), that we were cautioned to not get excited if the first quart was quickly used, but then the oil level stayed at "Add 1 Quart) from then on out (for the rest of the 4000mile oil change). When the factory windage trays appeared, with the explanation in the magazines, it made more sense then. As it all worked out, our 383 didn't exhibit that "first quart' situation. So all was well . . .

In the later, 1st Gen Chevy LS engines, they ended up adding "windows" at the bottom of the cylinder castings to decrease crankcase windage. Which allowed the engines to rev higher without a power loss. Might not have decreased windage, but decreased the related turbulence by letting the oil/air mixture swirl with less restriction.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Yep, that's bent, but looks to be worth fixing. Also, if I was you I'd take the time to clean and degrease under there before you pull that pan. But I just like my stuff to be clean.
 
Don't forget to add a Mopar Perf windage tray kit while things are apart. For good measure.

CBODY67
I concur with the windage tray idea. However, if using a Mopar P4120998 tray, modify it before installing. Hammer a cold chisel into the side louvers on the tray to open them up. As stamped, the openings are so small that oil which is flung off the crank tends to pool on top of the tray (not good) instead of draining back into the pan.
 
Yep, that's bent, but looks to be worth fixing. Also, if I was you I'd take the time to clean and degrease under there before you pull that pan. But I just like my stuff to be clean.
The whole engine/trans is getting pulled and everything will be cleaned up then. This is just how I got it. Most of it is power steering fluid and oil from a bad valve cover gasket.
 
Looks more like someone used the pan for a place to place the floor jack a few times. If anything, once it's out you could probably take a 2x4 or similar and pound most of that out. The only thing is if it's tweaked the wrong way it may leak at the plug. Good Luck
 
Some of those bend radii look a little small, so getting them all round and smooth again might require some real body work (hammer and dolly stuff). A good used one might be a quicker option? With a matching pickup tube?

One thing about it, with that concave section of the pan's sump area, when you drain the oil, no residual hanging around in the bottom of the pan.

CBODY67
 
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