Curious on value of rare car. Need input

Chad

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hey gentleman. I got a lot of grief on the 72 yellow Polara build, and I am grateful and a bit nervous posting here anymore.

What I have is quite rare.
It’s a 63 Plymouth Sport fury, 426 wedge, and yes it’s a manual transmission. Dark blue poly body color, 2 tone light metallic blue interior.

Anyways I’m curious what the value is.
No rust, very very original car. Hasn’t been driven in over 50 years.
Last licensed in 1965.
I’m not super familiar with these types of 60’s Classic Mopars. Any idea on the value? Not looking for Barrett Jackson money, but don’t want to leave too much on the table.

Thanks for ANY input

I’ll take tons more pictures after the tow truck driver gets here

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No rust, very very original car. Hasn’t been driven in over 50 years.
I won't believe the no-rust claim until it's released from the Earth which seems to want to reclaim it.
Hasn't been driven in fifty years?
So we have zero knowledge of its condition. Zilch. None.
A dollar ninty-eight with what we have so far.
Until then, it only is worth an investigation by a person wanting and knowing this kind of car.
And it's a B-body....
 
First of all its a 1964. Member GlennB has extensive knowledge of these as he has owned several 63/64's and yes one max wedge car. He is on vacation this week but I will forward your blog and most likely will get back to you on this topic.
 
A reliable source for estimates:

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M A R K E T R E V I E W Pricing Reference Classifieds Subscribe Advertise Exotics 1984-2017
Collector Car Value Report
1964 PLYMOUTH MAX WEDGE 426-425hp (V8-2x4V) AT


#5 #4 #3 #2 #1
Post/Htp 15600 29125 45950 63475 86800
Fury 2dr Hardtop 15775 29400 46425 64100 87650

Be sure to read the condition guide - it is more stringent than you might think just based on the scale:

Condition Guidelines

These are condition guidelines to help assess a vehicle's condition. Keep in mind that there are many factors that affect value. For example, a "barn find" may on the surface look like a #4 or #5 vehicle, but it's time capsule character often means it is worth far more than it's condition would normally warrant.

#1 Excellent: A close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been extensively detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at and any flaws are trivial and not readily apparent. Everything works as new. All equipment is original, NOS, or excellent quality reproductions. Note: cost no object concours restorations should be considered 1+ condition.

#2 Very Good: An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas (chassis not required) have been fully detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly below a #1 vehicle.

#3 Good: Presentable inside and out with some signs of wear. Not detailed but very clean. Body should be straight and solid with no apparent rust and absolutely no rust-through anywhere. Shiny, attractive paint but may have evidence of minor fading or checking or other imperfections. Runs and drives well. May need some minor mechanical or cosmetic work but is fully usable and enjoyable as is.

#4 Fair: runs and drives OK but needs work throughout the vehicle. Body shows signs of wear or previous restoration work. Any rust should be minimal and not in any structural areas. Cosmetics, body, and mechanics all need work to some degree.

#5 Poor: In need of complete restoration, but is complete and not a rust bucket beyond repair. May or may not run. Not roadworthy.

Parts or Salvage: Incomplete vehicle most useful for parts. Generally, take 50-60% of the #5 value
 
63 and 64 Sport Furys are still hot and a big block 4spd is a big plus.
Could be worth a lot if underside is solid as others have said.
Hose it off and shoot some more pics. Maybe post it over on the B body site too.
I like the color combination.
 
These cars with the 426 wedge are a hot ticket item, particularily for folks building max wedge clones. As others have pointed out, the value will have a lot to do with the condition of the car. If it sat outside for a long period of time, the engine is likely stuck tight. When you get it home, put some diesel in each of the cylinders and let it sit for a week or so. Then put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and see if you can move the crankshaft. If it will move, that would be a good thing. I would suggest pulling the engine and doing a thorough inspection so that nothing is ruined in the process of trying to get it running. Valve guides tend to rust up on cars that have sat for this long, as do cylinder bores. The gas tank is most likely junk, pull that out and see if it can be cleaned. The rear axle should be disassembled and checked also, at the very least, the rear wheel bearings will need to be repacked. Often, the top half of the ring gear will rust from sitting without lubricant, so pull the 3rd member and check it. The full brake system will be junk, replace all linings, wheel cylinders, brake hoses and the master cylinder. Carefully check all steel tubing for rust out, I would suggest replacing all of the steel tubing and doing a careful inspection of the frame rails and floor pan while you are at it.

While you have the engine out, check the casting dates to see if they are consistent with the production dates for the car, an original engine is a big plus for valuation purposes. The car still has decent looking chrome and I do not see a lot of obvious exterior rust. Northwest cars typically do not have the salt induced rust so common on rust belt cars. It does rain a lot in the northwest, and floors tend to go fairly quickly, trunk floors go first. Foot wells tend to next, so pull the carpets and check them as carpet tends to hold a lot of moisture. As long as the frame rails were not in contact with the dirt, they usually do not rust out in the northwest.

I can not give a value for this car because there are too many unknowns. You will have some significant costs just to get this car road worthy. Most people do not park a car that is only a year old (Last Licensed in 1965) suspect either the story is fishy or the was something bad wrong with the engine.

Dave
 
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No, let @Chadsell it to one of us, we will love it more than a pesky B body guy! :lol:
 
hey gentleman. I got a lot of grief on the 72 yellow Polara build, and I am grateful and a bit nervous posting here anymore.

I think the price guide info will shed some light on the car's value once you can fully assess it's condition.

As for your yellow 72 Polara build, anyone who gave you grief is likely not a true car enthusiast. I'm not sure if I am familiar with that car or not but the bottom line is that it's your car and therefore you get to build it the way you want to. If in fact it is a factory yellow car then it has a rare color and should be kept that color. Don't let anyone give you grief - put them in their place and ask them for pics of their car(s).
 
but i belong to the b bodies only as well as here , but there are more 64 fury guys there for a true value of the beast . i myself am gathering enought parts to build one , just need an un wanted shell . thought i had one but a day to late again , lol . so the hunt goes on . this one is a cherry would hate to cut that one up for a racer .
 
but i belong to the b bodies only as well as here , but there are more 64 fury guys there for a true value of the beast . i myself am gathering enought parts to build one , just need an un wanted shell . thought i had one but a day to late again , lol . so the hunt goes on . this one is a cherry would hate to cut that one up for a racer .
I know Paul, I was just trying to keep it in the FCBO family. I'd still love a '63 Dodge.

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This is a car any Mopar guy would be proud to own. Looks like it was rode hard and put away wet for the year it was on the road.
As is and from what you have described I would place it at condition #4.
I think a true matching 426W 4 speed car will rival a max wedge in value.


Collector Car Value Report
1964 PLYMOUTH SPORT FURY 318-230hp (8cyl-2V) AT



MOBILE
#5 #4 #3 #2 #1
2dr Convertible 2700 7025 13900 19575 29850
2dr Hardtop 1975 4650 9925 15500 25175

Add:
361-265hp (8cyl-2V) 5%
383-330hp (8cyl-4V) 25%
426-365hp (8cyl-4V) 70%
4spd manual trans 5%
Air conditioning 10%
Power windows 3%
Deduct:
3spd manual transmission -10%
 
A true and complete 426-S four speed is worth a pretty good amount, regardless of body condition. The body is likely to be rustier than it appears, judging from the debris on the cowl.
 
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