Dash lights in a 60 Dart

Sixpactogo

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The dash lights have stopped working in my 60 Phoenix. I suspect it is a blown fuse but can't seem to find where it is located. All of the other dash and dome lights are working. I noticed my gauge illumination unlit while doing a check to make sure all bulbs were working. I don't drive the car much at night so not a big problem but it is the first time I noticed there doesn't seem to be a fuse panel. Only inline fuses on some circuits. I ordered a wiring diagram since the diagram in my service manual requires a magnifying glass for my 76 year old eyes. Anyone know where the fuse would be off the top of their head?
 
I'm not real familiar with these cars, but IIRC, there's no fuse block or anything like that. '
'
If this were my car, first thing I would try is twisting the light switch a few times (instrument light dimmer) and see if that cleans up the rheostat switch on the headlight switch.

The white colored piece on the end of this switch is the rheostat.

1653319621053.png
 
I'm not real familiar with these cars, but IIRC, there's no fuse block or anything like that. '
'
If this were my car, first thing I would try is twisting the light switch a few times (instrument light dimmer) and see if that cleans up the rheostat switch on the headlight switch.

The white colored piece on the end of this switch is the rheostat.

View attachment 532999
That was the first thing I tried with no success. I suppose it could be in the switch or rheostat. Mine looks exactly like that. I did notice there is nothing plugged into the yellow pigtail wire exiting the switch but guessed it was for something my car doesn't have since there is no loose wires available to plug into it. It just seems to me there should be a fuse somewhere.
 
There is NO "fuseblock" on a 1960 Dodge.

At least the kind that you're most likely thinking about that contains "individual fuses" for each circuit.

There will be a junction box or connector block (for lack of a better term), mounted to the underside of the dashframe. See attached picture for reference.

The power comes into this junction box and there is ONLY 1 lead with an in-line fuse. All of the circuits are directly connected into this box.

I agree to check the headlight switch as the contacts get worn, dirty or corroded.

IMG_8414.jpg
 
There is NO "fuseblock" on a 1960 Dodge.

At least the kind that you're most likely thinking about that contains "individual fuses" for each circuit.

There will be a junction box or connector block (for lack of a better term), mounted to the underside of the dashframe. See attached picture for reference.

The power comes into this junction box and there is ONLY 1 lead with an in-line fuse. All of the circuits are directly connected into this box.

I agree to check the headlight switch as the contacts get worn, dirty or corroded.

View attachment 533003
I think I found the fuse holder you show in your pic. It has an unblown 20A fuse. It appears as if the red wire would be the feed with maybe a 30A fuse while the black fuse holder would be one of a few feeding smaller loads similar to a fuse panel. My stiff old body frowns on the contortionist moves required to do much of the under dash research needed so I think I will wait for my wiring diagram before more probing. Thanks for your efforts.
 
Scanned the wiring diagram for the dash from my 1960 Dodge shop manual.

60_Dodge_Wiring-Diagram.png
 
Scanned the wiring diagram for the dash from my 1960 Dodge shop manual.

View attachment 533016
Thank you! That is what I should have done but didn't think of it. At least I can blow it up large enough to read now. However, I ordered a color coded one from Classic wiring that will work much better. At least with your scanned one, I can see there doesn't appear to be any fuse for the instrument lights so that is telling me my rheostat is no longer playing by the rules since the switch is working properly. E-2 is the instrument light circuit and is direct drive off of the rheostat to all instrument lights with no fuse. Thanks again!
 
I'd recommend pulling it out of the dash and spraying the rheostat with electronics cleaner (can be found at your local hardware store) while rotating the rheostat to help clean the connections. You may end up rotating it back and forth 50-100 times to get a good cleaning. It still might not work after this, but I have had some success reviving these using that method. While it's out, you may as well clean all the plug connections too.
 
I'm not real familiar with these cars, but IIRC, there's no fuse block or anything like that. '
'
If this were my car, first thing I would try is twisting the light switch a few times (instrument light dimmer) and see if that cleans up the rheostat switch on the headlight switch.

The white colored piece on the end of this switch is the rheostat.

View attachment 532999
The most common failure on these switches is the dash light rheostat. On the switch above it would appear that power come in (for dash lights only) on the single terminal attached to the switch with the 2 rivets. Make sure you have power there all the time. It goes through the rheostat and comes out on the 3 spade terminal closest to the ceramic part. If you have confirmed power at the single terminal (I can't see the number on the diagram) you can jump it to the orange wires on the 3 spade terminal. That would bypass the rheostat and power up your dash lights.
If shopping for an NOS switch make sure you get a pic of the rheostat (spring) area. Most are corroded (green blue) here from the moisture in the air
 
The most common failure on these switches is the dash light rheostat. On the switch above it would appear that power come in (for dash lights only) on the single terminal attached to the switch with the 2 rivets. Make sure you have power there all the time. It goes through the rheostat and comes out on the 3 spade terminal closest to the ceramic part. If you have confirmed power at the single terminal (I can't see the number on the diagram) you can jump it to the orange wires on the 3 spade terminal. That would bypass the rheostat and power up your dash lights.
If shopping for an NOS switch make sure you get a pic of the rheostat (spring) area. Most are corroded (green blue) here from the moisture in the air
Looks like my rheostat is the culprit. It looks ok to me but probably needs some work. Do you have the parts to rebuild it. It looks identical to the one Big John shows in post 2. It has the pigtail with the yellow wire but I don't need that wire.
 
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