Dash pad pre swap questions - cracking

The Goose

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Going to replace the dash pad in my 69 Fury. My experiences from e body ownership had me pull the speaker grill hardware and just silicone the grill in place. Seemed like if you pulled the hardware you had a better chance of the dash not splitting.

Looking at my destroyed pad I’m thinking about pulling the speaker and speaker support. Looks like a major crack starting spot. The other spots are where the bolts hold the dash pad to the cowl. There are a few tiny cracks that haven’t gone anywhere yet. Wondering the best way to nip them in the bud. I figured drill the end of the crack or I could burn a hole with a soldering iron. Anyways just looking for ways to prolong the inevitable.
 
Tiny cracks by the bolt holes.

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Here’s the mess on the underside. I have no need for the under dash speaker so it’s getting evicted.

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personally, i would try krazy glue on the small cracks around the bolt holes. it's naturally going to crack along the weakest (speaker holes) and most stressed areas (defroster vents). not much you can do except keep it conditioned, as was said above.
 
Hi Goose,
I recommend applying this stuff, rubbing it across the entire dash pad, enough to leave the surface wet. Let it soak in overnight. Repeat process many days in a row until black, softened, and lustrous. Meguiar's M4016 Mirror Glaze M40 Vinyl/Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner - 16 oz. | eBay
The proof is in the outcome, Ben
View attachment 427487
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Happy 70 Fury
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well I can’t argue with your results. I’m buying that stuff. Thanks!!!
 
personally, i would try krazy glue on the small cracks around the bolt holes. it's naturally going to crack along the weakest (speaker holes) and most stressed areas (defroster vents). not much you can do except keep it conditioned, as was said above.
I was going to try and eliminate them by cutting them out or drill burn them to deadhead the crack.

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I was also wondering if nylon bolts would prevent the heat build up that starts cracks better than the iron bolts. The pads only 3 or 4 pounds so I don’t think you’d need the strength of iron. Just a thought.
 
i think you are going to be chasing your tail. the vinyl shrinks overall , it's stressed more at edges whether a factory edge or one you created. if anything , maybe rubber washers to cut down on the stress of the sharp edge of the metal bolts/washers.
 
i think you are going to be chasing your tail. the vinyl shrinks overall , it's stressed more at edges whether a factory edge or one you created. if anything , maybe rubber washers to cut down on the stress of the sharp edge of the metal bolts/washers.

It’s like trying to hold the ocean back with a rake...
 
Hi Goose,
I recommend applying this stuff, rubbing it across the entire dash pad, enough to leave the surface wet. Let it soak in overnight. Repeat process many days in a row until black, softened, and lustrous. Meguiar's M4016 Mirror Glaze M40 Vinyl/Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner - 16 oz. | eBay
The proof is in the outcome, Ben
View attachment 427487
View attachment 427488
Happy 70 Fury
View attachment 427489
You and Mr Fury440 have always been my inspiration to get my dash up to snuff. Yours and the one in his red Fury convertible are beautifully presented. 10 out of 10 sir!!!!
 
It’s like trying to hold the ocean back with a rake...
**** the ocean and the rake. The sun is the enemy.
My dash has lasted 4 years.
#1 The car is garage kept. Shade is KEY. There is no better shade than a garage.
#2 Once you've got the vinyl softened, apply the Meguiar's at least once every 3 months to keep it that way. More, the more you drive the car. I put less than 1000 miles a year on mine, so extrapolate.
Bottom line: I believe you can make a dash that has no cracks soft and then keep the vinyl soft. I admit, it took over a month (maybe 45 days) to get mine soft, but what's so little time in the life of a 50 year old car? And who's going to notice tiny cracks at screw holes that can't expand because the rest of the dash is OK? Just my 2 cents, Ben
 
Maybe some clear RTV in the recessed areas?

We tried glues etc back in the day but once a crack started you were toast. And good luck finding a good one in Phoenix. Back in the 80’s you had a nice dash or a dash matt. It doesn’t get that hot out here but the car is no show pony. It sits in the sun for hours at a time sometimes all day. I was just thinking if I cut out the crack where it doesn’t even matter then with the softener I could put off the inevitable for a good long time.
 
I have not done this but you could try black polyurethane roof sealant, maybe 1/2" high plug's worth around the mounting hole. Let it dry and then put a black washer and flat head screw through it. I have used this stuff as seam sealer on metal. Works great. Since it dries harder than RTV but still flexible and heat resistant it my spread out like a rubber plug when you tighten the screw and glue/grip the sides to spread out the stresses. I am planning to use this or another flexible caulk for the cracks on my 69 dash pad. I have 2 so will be experimenting. Just an idea.
 
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