Dashboard unknown A/C wire '68 Newport

Metalmarty

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Hi all!,

I'm working on tidying the wiring in the dashboard of my '68 Newport.
All the wires are exactly like in my FSM , except for one unknown wire...

My '68 Newport has basic A/C from factory.
I've added a picture from my '68 Newport FSM.
It doesn't have the dual blower motor or the roof mounted A/C.

For some reason it doesn't have the 16LGN wire (noted with red). Looks to be from factory.
And the 16DBL and 14T wires are connected to eachother (noted with yellow). Which was done later.

Does anyone know why i'm missing the LGN wire and why the T and DBL wires are connected?
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I've tried to take some pictures but it's pretty hard to get a clear image. Hopefully it helps.

Fan switch connectors has 1 LGN, 1 DGN and 2 TAN wires. One of the TAN wires looks to be cut and reconnected with a yellow wire crimper going to a black wire.
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Here you can see the black wire from the yellow crimper, looping around the vacuum lines and going to the left (in the picture)
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The black wire continues here and connects to the DBL wire. This wire is going to the A/C clutch and Time Relay. Looks like this wire was cut in two and reconnected like the TAN wire also.
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Is there a reason for this?
Hopefully someone can help me with this.
 

live4theking

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It is good that you're investigating your wiring. I don't remember if your car is running or not. In the least you're going to have to ohm some of the wires.

16LGN - is there a wire from the fuse block to the blower motor in its position? I'm only seeing the two 14T wires. Your blower motor shouldn't work without this wire. You'll find more wiring diagrams on 8-92.

I have no idea why they would've connected 14T and 18DBL.

I'm beginning to wonder if air conditioning and heater vacuum switch or blower died switch are bad. Causing them to do some of this to circumvent the switches.

You've got some wire packing in your future.
 

cbarge

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Wish I was there..
My Newport does not have A/C so other than the FSM I have nothing to compare your concern to.
Sorry.
 

Metalmarty

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It is good that you're investigating your wiring. I don't remember if your car is running or not. In the least you're going to have to ohm some of the wires.

You've got some wire packing in your future.

Thanks for the reply. I will give some more context off what I've done and where I'm at below. Might make it a bit easier to understand?

The car is not running at the moment. Engine, trans and diff are not mounted atm :) (1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL))

Wish I was there..
My Newport does not have A/C so other than the FSM I have nothing to compare your concern to.
Sorry.

Thanks anyway :)


Ok, now to give you some context.
I'm rebuilding my '68 Newport, whole front is in pieces and I wanted to get piece of mind wiring wise, so I'm checking everything to make sure it doesn't burn to the ground at some point.

The reason behind this is that pins J and P on the bulkhead connector were melted. Some previous owner bypassed the AMmeter when this happened in a not very nice way. I'm not scared of wiring so I decided to replace the bulkhead connector and check all wiring since I'm busy anyways.

I've pulled most of the dash apart, and after thinking "What did I get myself into" I carried on with comparing the wiring with my FSM. And to my surprise, 95% of the wiring is original and in way better condition than I've expected. Wires are still bendable without breaking and have little to no corrosion.

The only not original parts are :
- Ammeter bypass patch (not done in a neat way)
- Dimmer switch was broken in the back (I have a replacement one) and the connector was cutoff...
- Radio wiring patches, I've cut the non original wiring out and I'm returning it to original according to the FSM.
- Unknown black wire connecting Tan blower switch wire to DBL A/C clutch wire.

The rest is fully original, in good condition and all according to the FSM :thumbsup:


(picture looks worse than it actually is...)
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Repinned bulkhead connector with original wires and patched J and P pins (made sure the copper didn't have corrosion).
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Quiet the difference.
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Now back to the problem.

My wiring loom has the 16LGN wire from the fusebox to the A/C vacuum switch (left side of picture). It doesn't have the 16LGN wire from fusebox to blower motor switch. (right side of picture) I'm now thinking this might be an extra power wire for the roof mounted A/C L&R blower motors?
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16LGN - is there a wire from the fuse block to the blower motor in its position? I'm only seeing the two 14T wires. Your blower motor shouldn't work without this wire. You'll find more wiring diagrams on 8-92.

I have no idea why they would've connected 14T and 18DBL.

I'm beginning to wonder if air conditioning and heater vacuum switch or blower died switch are bad. Causing them to do some of this to circumvent the switches.

The blower motor has a 14DGN wire like in the FSM diagrams. From Blower motor switch "High" to Ballast resistor "High" to the 3 pins connector (together with the 18DBL A/C clutch and 16BR Time relay wires) and out through the bulkhead to the motor.
I can't use the blower motor/vacuum switch diagram from 8-92 since it's really different (even has a 4 pin blower switch instead of 3)

I can't check the blower and vacuum switch until later this week. I don't have my garage next to my house and we have corona curfew...

Is there an easy way to pull the vacuum and blower switch plate from the dash? It's pretty hard checking the back of the vacuum switch with it in the dash...

I'm tempted to just remove the back jumper wire, tidyup the 14T and 18DBL wires and go from there... But I'll try to find a logical explanation first.
 

live4theking

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The only way to pull the switch is to remove the vacuum switch is to remove the ash tray. Be ever so careful removing the vacuum lines. I broke the nipple off of mine in the 90's. That switch is 25 years older now.
 
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