Disc brake conversion 65 Monaco

65--880

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Hello, I was told the Steering knuckles, rotors, etc from chrysler 5th avenue will fit a Monaco with very little mods. Does anyong know if this it true? I was also told I could not use a drum power brake master cylinder for the disc brakes?
 

Davea Lux

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You will need the disc parts from a '70-'73 C-Body to make the conversion(Fury,Monaco or Chrysler). Some '69 Furys and Monacos also have the same disc setup. You will need the disc brake booster, master cylinder, spindles, calipers and rotors. You ill also need to install a brake proportioning valve to rebalance the brake system. Disc brake hoses are also different. Avoid the '66-'69 Budd brake system as parts are expensive and hard to find. Lower ball joints for that system have been out of production for 30 years or more and they are unique to Budd brakes.

Dave
 
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65--880

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Thanks Dave. Do you think it would be better to just buy a Leed kit than to piece something together?
 

68 4spd Fury

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Thanks Dave. Do you think it would be better to just buy a Leed kit than to piece something together?
I have never done this so for what it's worth, I would go with the aftermarket conversion. Although the out of pocket cost would be higher. Even with a doner car with all the components you need, they're still 50+ years old and would need to cleaned and rebuilt to be reliable. Good luck!
 

Isaiah Estrada

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There are many threads here regarding this conversion. @Ross Wooldridge is a pro on this subject and has taught me a thing or two about this setup!

The main issue with aftermarket kits is that they were not designed specifically for our powerful 4,500+ lb C-Bodies effectively. They’re a combo of Ford and GM parts that “fit” but again, aren’t meant for a car so big.

Your best bet is indeed a 1969-1973 C Body disc brake setup. You will need: Spindles, Calipers, Caliper Bracket, Rotors and the respective bearings depending on what year you’ll get. The 1973 spindles are unique, as they use a larger bearing that allows for use with rotors that Chrysler used for longer on their production cars (well into the 80s IIRC.) EVERYTHING will bolt up to your factory setup. Spindles and steering knuckle will fit like a glove. The hardest thing to find will likely be the 1965-68 Bendix disc brake booster. The factory drum brake booster will NOT provide enough assist to safely operate this braking system. Same goes for aftermarket boosters, they might work but it’s not a good idea to bet your life and others on a booster that is probably not strong enough to stop these cars.

There is a thread with a more in depth explanation. I referred to it when I myself converted my New Yorker to discs: 65 Fury disc brake conversion advice
 

fury fan

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Yes, you need a disc booster to work with discs. A drum booster will give enough boost for normal driving but not enough in a heavy stop - when you need it most.
Also - if you currently have manual drums, you either need to swap to a power-brake pedal or install as manual discs (which I have done and I love).

5th Ave (depending on the year) is either an M-body or an R-body - neither of those will bolt in.

69-73 C-body discs are the *only* factory parts that are bolt-in for 65-73 C-bodies. (ignoring the 65-68 4-piston Budds that have been mentioned)

69-73 calipers have gone non-available at the parts store in teh last year or so.
Many drum-to-disc kits seem to use a common GM caliper - so that's a benefit for parts sourcing.

FWIW - lower balljoints are difficult to find in non-chinese style.
So using a drum > disc kit avoids the need to unfasten the LBJ nut from the LCA - which might be stubborn - because you are not removing the spindle.

Also avoids needing to do a suspension alignment afterward - so there's $75+ saved. (whether you need an alignment after swapping the spindle is up for debate)
And no matter how tight your suspension is, they'll try to convince you something is worn and needs replaced.
I once went for an alignment with a car I believed was pretty tight. Got a call that I needed 4 (!) new tierod ends. Went to visit to see for myself, and the manager let me discuss with the technician. It was on the frame lift already so they would lose no time getting into my pocket.

He showed me the *one* bad tierod (manager's special upsale, I guess) by putting channel-lock pliers on it to show me the play that it had.
Was squeezing with everything he had and I couldn't verify any play because the whole suspension was moving.
Told him I couldn't afford it right now, and to align it as best as he could.
I should've told him to stop squeezing before he broke a blood vessel.
 

1970FuryConv

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Ditto: 5th Ave (depending on the year) is either an M-body or an R-body - neither of those will bolt in.
 

65--880

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Yes, you need a disc booster to work with discs. A drum booster will give enough boost for normal driving but not enough in a heavy stop - when you need it most.
Also - if you currently have manual drums, you either need to swap to a power-brake pedal or install as manual discs (which I have done and I love).

5th Ave (depending on the year) is either an M-body or an R-body - neither of those will bolt in.

69-73 C-body discs are the *only* factory parts that are bolt-in for 65-73 C-bodies. (ignoring the 65-68 4-piston Budds that have been mentioned)

69-73 calipers have gone non-available at the parts store in teh last year or so.
Many drum-to-disc kits seem to use a common GM caliper - so that's a benefit for parts sourcing.

FWIW - lower balljoints are difficult to find in non-chinese style.
So using a drum > disc kit avoids the need to unfasten the LBJ nut from the LCA - which might be stubborn - because you are not removing the spindle.

Also avoids needing to do a suspension alignment afterward - so there's $75+ saved. (whether you need an alignment after swapping the spindle is up for debate)
And no matter how tight your suspension is, they'll try to convince you something is worn and needs replaced.
I once went for an alignment with a car I believed was pretty tight. Got a call that I needed 4 (!) new tierod ends. Went to visit to see for myself, and the manager let me discuss with the technician. It was on the frame lift already so they would lose no time getting into my pocket.

He showed me the *one* bad tierod (manager's special upsale, I guess) by putting channel-lock pliers on it to show me the play that it had.
Was squeezing with everything he had and I couldn't verify any play because the whole suspension was moving.
Told him I couldn't afford it right now, and to align it as best as he could.
I should've told him to stop squeezing before he broke a blood vessel.
Sorry about your experience at the alignment shop. The main issues with my car are the brakes and the front end is shot. Everything is worn out. Luckily I have a lift and mechanical experience. I think Moog makes a complete front end kit for Monaco. I know from experience they make good parts. I think Proforged are made overseas but built to very high standards. Thanks for filling me on used parts. I will have to decide what to do. BTW, about brakes I just watched a video about a complete restoration of a 63 Falcon/ Futura. They were driving it in traffic and lost brakes, rearended a minivan at 40 mph and completely totaled it. The guy filming ennded up needing new teeth. The driver blew out his elbows. Its on You Tube
 

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You will need the disc parts from a '70-'73 C-Body to make the conversion(Fury,Monaco or Chrysler). Some '69 Furys and Monacos also have the same disc setup. You will need the disc brake booster, master cylinder, spindles, calipers and rotors. You ill also need to install a brake proportioning valve to rebalance the brake system. Disc brake hoses are also different. Avoid the '66-'69 Budd brake system as parts are expensive and hard to find. Lower ball joints for that system have been out of production for 30 years or more and they are unique to Budd brakes.

Dave
Thank you very much Dave, I appreciate all of the information.
 

65--880

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There are many threads here regarding this conversion. @Ross Wooldridge is a pro on this subject and has taught me a thing or two about this setup!

The main issue with aftermarket kits is that they were not designed specifically for our powerful 4,500+ lb C-Bodies effectively. They’re a combo of Ford and GM parts that “fit” but again, aren’t meant for a car so big.

Your best bet is indeed a 1969-1973 C Body disc brake setup. You will need: Spindles, Calipers, Caliper Bracket, Rotors and the respective bearings depending on what year you’ll get. The 1973 spindles are unique, as they use a larger bearing that allows for use with rotors that Chrysler used for longer on their production cars (well into the 80s IIRC.) EVERYTHING will bolt up to your factory setup. Spindles and steering knuckle will fit like a glove. The hardest thing to find will likely be the 1965-68 Bendix disc brake booster. The factory drum brake booster will NOT provide enough assist to safely operate this braking system. Same goes for aftermarket boosters, they might work but it’s not a good idea to bet your life and others on a booster that is probably not strong enough to stop these cars.

There is a thread with a more in depth explanation. I referred to it when I myself converted my New Yorker to discs: 65 Fury disc brake conversion advice
Thank you very much, I greatly appreciate your help. Have a nice evening!
 

fury fan

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Sorry about your experience at the alignment shop. The main issues with my car are the brakes and the front end is shot. Everything is worn out. Luckily I have a lift and mechanical experience. I think Moog makes a complete front end kit for Monaco. I know from experience they make good parts. I think Proforged are made overseas but built to very high standards. Thanks for filling me on used parts. I will have to decide what to do. BTW, about brakes I just watched a video about a complete restoration of a 63 Falcon/ Futura. They were driving it in traffic and lost brakes, rearended a minivan at 40 mph and completely totaled it. The guy filming ennded up needing new teeth. The driver blew out his elbows. Its on You Tube
With a lift and experience, sounds like you can tackle the front end. If it's a new task, be aware of a subtle trick that bolts/bushings should be tightened when the car weight is on them, not to tighten when the suspension is in droop, which would put a residual twist in them later.

According to reports on FCBO, Moog hasn't made the LBJ for a C-body for ~20 years.
I haven't seen any specific user reports on FCBO that the overseas LBJs are bad, I've only seen some comments that they must be bad simply because they are Chinese.

Swaybar bushings (on the bar itself and the ones going on the strut rods) are reportedly getting scarce also.
 

Davea Lux

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Not everything made in China is crap. They do however have serious issues with quality control. They sell most of their auto parts well below the price set by US manufactures. That is good if the parts are good quality. My luck with China parts has not been good, so I do not use them.

Dave
 
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