Disk brakes are these rebuild able

[Wonderwagon]

These look rusty, but usable. Disks look like they have plenty meat on them, and are turnable. Calipers look salvageable as well, opinions?

 

[pomonamissel]

just looked rained on .

 

[65sporty]

I would use the calipers as cores and have someone mic the rotors to see how thick they are. I am not sure how much would need to be removed to get to virgin metal.

 

[Davea Lux]

Rotors can be turned a maximum of .060. Have your machine shop Mic them to determine status. Calipers are probably cores. You can rebuild them but as they are a relatively low cost item you might be farther ahead to turn them in for factory rebuilds.

Dave

 

[Wonderwagon]

thanxs, all. The .060 or more would be each face, correct. In advance thanks again. If I purchase will also get the proportioning valve, for possible use.

 

[Davea Lux]

Drum and rotors are the same are the same, max .060. you can go .030 on one side and .030 on the other but no more than .060.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Unless you are having trouble with the portioning valve, I probably would leave it alone. It is a $100 item that does not usually go bad.

Dave

 

[Wonderwagon]

Getting parts together for a conversion, and stumbled upon these

 

[cantflip]

Getting parts together for a conversion, and stumbled upon these

Best of luck to you, please read around the forum and see how much fun others have had before starting... I'm not saying don't do it... but reseaerching the pains of others may help save you from similar issues.

Drum and rotors are the same are the same, max .060. you can go .030 on one side and .030 on the other but no more than .060.

Dave

Thank you... and just to clarify .060 from new to garbage... don't even bother to cut scale rust... you're unlikely to do anything but dull the bits on the lathe.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I would get a adjustable proportion valve. You can have a lot of pressure to the rear brakes before they lock with all that *** of a station wagon, you want the fronts to lock first or the car will come around on you.
Rebuild the caliper yourself, buy a seal kit and a brand new piston and bleeder then clean the housing out with some good brake clean like red CRC, clean the groove out well put the new seal and piston in and get the dust boot pulled down and you have a rebuilt caliper.

 

[Wonderwagon]

Looking through the replys, thanks. More questions, looking at my FSM, it apears that this is a large single piston caliper. Why on the belvedere and coronet, is it a 4 piston caliper, seem 4 piston would apply pressure more evenly, and stop faster on larger C's?

Double checked Rock auto, disks, calipers, pads and rebuild parts are avaiable for factory calipers, piston, seals, pins, bushings and bleeders. If the factory calipers are rebuilt, are the positioners reused? Bearings, seals on spindles not commenting on.

 

[cantflip]

Looking through the replys, thanks. More questions, looking at my FSM, it apears that this is a large single piston caliper. Why on the belvedere and coronet, is it a 4 piston caliper, seem 4 piston would apply pressure more evenly, and stop faster on larger C's?

You are right in that the 4 piston caliper design is superior (when it works), but not by a big margin. The single piston design is cheaper to produce, which is why it is so common. As this stuff ages, single piston calipers are much easier to work with (rebuild), 4 pistons are much more expensive to rebuild and often require machine work to of some sort to be saved. It's not a Italian supercar... single pistons will do nicely. The amount of pressure is not at issue, that is determined mathematically by the surface area (diameter) of the master cylinder piston vs. the surface are of the caliper piston(s).

Double checked Rock auto, disks, calipers, pads and rebuild parts are avaiable for factory calipers, piston, seals, pins, bushings and bleeders. If the factory calipers are rebuilt, are the positioners reused? Bearings, seals on spindles not commenting on.

I'm not entirely certain what you mean by "positioners". Rebuilt calipers might get new pistons, but reusing the old is acceptable if in good condition. The slide mechanism should get new hardware, if pin type calipers, the bolts can be reused if in good shape. The caliper mount on your spindle will be untouched, or if in bad condition should be replaced (a few have been repaired, but that's not ideal).

BTW, pet peeve, they are DISC brakes... IDK why that one bothers me, I usually am not the spelling police (thankful for spell check).

Also, before you get started down this road... please read through the many threads in the forums about all the fun you are getting into... It's not rocket surgery, but it's not so simple as you think(hope) it will be.

 

[detmatt]

Dr. Catnip to Rocket surgery, STAT!.

 

[Wonderwagon]

Started on the cleanup of the spindles, curious is the blue paint on the edge of any significance, top of photo. Found it under all the rust and dirt. Second photo less the caliper, preliminary cleaning.

 

[Davea Lux]

I guessing here, but I suspect the blue paint might be over-spray from body work. Is the car by any chance blue? Spindles look like they are cleaning up real nice.

Dave