Don’t wanna, but need to pull IP to modify regulator

Electrical & Ignition

  1. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Now that I am running after 12 years I already need to pull my Instrument Panel on my ‘68 Polara. As I posted on another thread I was getting some pretty large bounces on my fuel gauge and Temp gauge. Both which are fed from a voltage regulator limiting to 5 volts built into the fuel gauge.
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    I did notice the bounce when I bench tested, but wrote it off to my cheap power converter. But I don’t think that was case. Per some forum wisdom I ordered a solid-state 5 volt regulator. But it requires the old voltage regulator be taken out of play which means the IP comes out. I am going to test on my spare panel and gauges first.
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  2. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    And I'm glad if I have any lights on my speedometer! It's always the tools fault, isn't it?
     
  3. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Tested it on my spare gauge cluster. Seems to be working better. This one was pulsing pretty good as well.
    Now I should quit procrastinating and pull it out. The only reason to pull it out is to bend the regulator and out of play.

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  4. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    This type of voltage regulator pulses normally, a set of points opens and closes to maintain the reduced voltage. They do go bad if the points fuse or start sticking. You might also want to check the ground connection for the cluster as well since a poor ground will sometimes cause erratic gauge readings.

    Dave
     
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  5. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Yes I even added another ground on the back of the cluster to the horn ground on the steering column. No difference. On the bench you could see it opening and closing when the gauge fluctuated. It fluctuated about 1/8-1/4 tank. Have it installed and almost back together now.
    About 45 minutes to get it out.
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  6. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Not as bad as I expected. The LH bezel was difficult. The new dashpad was kind of thick in the corner. Gas gauge is at least shows above 3/4. And is steady now.
    image.jpg
     
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  7. Turboomni

    Turboomni Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm about to do the same thing,,both the fuel and temp are dead. I did order an electronic one,we will see.
    Not looking forward to it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2019
  8. Joseph James

    Joseph James Well-Known Member

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    That fuel gauge coil has obvious heat damage from current it carries. Might be time to rewind it. A coil is just math -matching wire size, number of turns, etc.

    I had a loose battery cable that fried my temp gauge. I plan on rewinding it next Friday when I’m off work. So, I feel for you. It is not fun pulling the instrument panel out.

    I did install a 7805 regulator in mine (I have a lot of electronic components laying around). I didn’t find it any better than the old school version and plan on putting my old style regulator back on.

    Just what I noticed and my experiences. Hope it helps in some way.
     
  9. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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    Might wanna see if the printed circuit card is available for your IP, since you'll have it out. When I did my IP a few months ago (I needed "winter" weather in Florida to keep from passing out from heat) I acquired every switch, bulb and other gizmos in there to replace EVERYTHING at one time.

    After all, it's not something you're looking forward to. Twice. :(
     
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  10. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Well-Known Member

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  11. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I have two dash panels including circuit board. The better of the two and gauges are in my car. In the first part of the thread I did my setup and testing on my secondary IP. It works fine but as a couple people noticed the gauges have been hot. However they are still calibrated.
    I had cleaned my good one and replaced all the bulbs before I put it in the car the last time. What I didn’t anticipate was my voltage regulator causing that much fluctuation. I have all good wiring and circuits now so should be good for another 50 years.
     
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