Door Lock Question

wihaltom

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
108
Reaction score
14
Location
Baytown, TX
I have an issue with the driver's door lock system.
I can't lock the door with the key.
If I push the lock down and close the door, the lock pops back up.
If I go inside the car and lock the door, then go outside the car and push the door handle button, the lock pops up.
What is causing this and how do I correct it?
 
I really can't help you but I took some pictures of the lock mechanism and can see if at some point someone didn’t re-install them correctly or as you can see from the photo that the lock linkage can not be switched but maybe it is some how twisted around the door button linkage.

door linkage.jpgdoor linkage 2.jpg

door linkage 2.jpg


door linkage.jpg
 
Thanks for the pictures, Z.
I'm going to pull the door apart as soon as I get my knee fixed.
I can't work on anything for a while.
I appreciate the help immensely.
 
i was reading through the manual for my 69 fury last night and according to that, the drivers door will not lock with the button. as a feature to prevent locking your keys in the car, the button will pop up when the door is shut. it must be locked from the outside with the key. if that is accurate for your car then the problem is with the key lock.
 
I can only lock my '65 with the key. I would suspect an issue with your linkage. It either isn't connected or it is configured improperly.
 
I got a new set of lock cylinders from RockAuto.com.
I am getting them rekeyed to match my existing keys and then I will install them.
At that point, I can get the linkage arranged correctly and hopefully, I can lock my car!!
Thanks for all the help, guys.
 
Good point to know that RockAuto has them. I didn't know that and I wouldn't have thought of them.
Thanks.
 
Good point to know that RockAuto has them. I didn't know that and I wouldn't have thought of them.
Thanks.

Since I wrote that post, I have had time to get into the door.
The new locks DO NOT fit my door.
The lock on the left is the original lock. The one on the right is the new one from Rock Auto.
Notice the huge difference in the diameter of the bezel and the diameter of the lock body. The hole in the door will not accomodate the new lock.
I have already sent a message to RockAuto to tell them of the issue.
The worst part is that I have spent another $40 to have the new locks re-keyed to use my existing key so I have about $55 tied up in a set of locks I can't use unless I start modifying my door lock opening.
I have done some preliminary searches for OE locks without much luck so far.
What would you guys do?


IMG_0022 (800x534).jpg
IMG_0023 (800x534).jpg

IMG_0022 (800x534).jpg


IMG_0023 (800x534).jpg
 
Do you have part numbers and where did you search for door locks?
 
It may not be as simple as enlarging the hole.
There are 4 lugs on the replacement lock that look like they may need to lock into something.
If the hole is bored out large enough to accomodate those lugs, there isn't anything to hold the lock in position to keep it from rotating when you turn the key.
The old lock has some markings "AAKC" and "CJ144" that don't bring up anything usable in a Google search.
I may just take the old lock to a locksmith and see if it can be made functional.
 
It may not be as simple as enlarging the hole.
There are 4 lugs on the replacement lock that look like they may need to lock into something.
If the hole is bored out large enough to accomodate those lugs, there isn't anything to hold the lock in position to keep it from rotating when you turn the key.
The old lock has some markings "AAKC" and "CJ144" that don't bring up anything usable in a Google search.
I may just take the old lock to a locksmith and see if it can be made functional.

Or bore the hole to the right size and use a file to file the notches....easy.
 
What's wrong with your original locks? I don't think your issue was with the locks themselves. Maybe you can take them to your locksmith so he can have a look at them. I wouldn't be boring out holes in my door. Worse case scenario is you get a set of good originals from Murray Park or National Moparts and have them keyed to match your ignition key. I know you are already into these replacements for some $$$ but in my book, there is only one way to do things: the right way. I'd be willing to bet your originals are in good working order or your locksmith can fix them is they aren't.
 
I have taken the original lock to the locksmith to see if he can repair it.
I would much rather have the original lock or a correct replacement if the original can't be made functional.
I hope to hear from him today.
So far, I'm only into the whole mess about $65. That's nothing when we are fooling with these old cars so I'm not worried about that.
I just want it to look and work right.
 
I got my original lock back from the locksmith.
It works pretty well.
I got the door re-assembled and I still have the problem of the door unlocking when the button is pushed outside the car.
I'm wondering now if there is something wrong with the door latching assembly.
I can see a small tab that pops out when the pushbutton is pressed.
Its like the lock mechanism isn't really latching in fully.
Maybe I need to peruse the Items For Sale and see if anyone has any door latch mechanisms.
This is really pi$$ing me off.
 
I got my original lock back from the locksmith.
It works pretty well.
I got the door re-assembled and I still have the problem of the door unlocking when the button is pushed outside the car.
I'm wondering now if there is something wrong with the door latching assembly.
I can see a small tab that pops out when the pushbutton is pressed.
Its like the lock mechanism isn't really latching in fully.
Maybe I need to peruse the Items For Sale and see if anyone has any door latch mechanisms.
This is really pi$$ing me off.

Have you taken the door panel off the opposing door to see if there something different or hooked up differently?
 
I used the pictures that Zymurgy had posted. Mine looks exactly like the pictures. I tried manually locking the latch with the rod disconnected. Same result. I did verify that the lock goes all the way into lock mode with the rod attached or disconnected. The pictures don't show it, but there is a small tab that seems to be somewhat rounded off that is the part of the lock system that holds the latch in place when the lock is activated. I know that isn't a very good description but it's the best I can come up with.
 
Back
Top