1. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Well it cooled enough to look under the car for the drain plugs as a core plug over the starter is leaking. Found it at 9/16" size but WTH! Does one ever get those things out? I've always managed to get them out of my Ford blocks to replace with petcocks but this one is a whole other thing. Hmm, wonder if I can get my electric impact wrench in there?

    Also noticed while under the car what looked like the remnants of what was two rubber halves that comprised a transmission mount at the tail shaft. That definitely needs to be replaced and this seems easy with one single blot through the middle and oil on it. Took a look on Rock Auto and saw several that don't look like mine at all and then a polyurethane one that was two halves. Any opinion of what can be used here?

    Last I got that special 727 pan gasket but I was unsure of the torque value. FSM says 150 in/lbs but that was before this gasket type ever appeared. I used 120 in/lbs and while under am completely dry front, back and left side but some leakage on the right side.
     
  2. Yatzee

    Yatzee Active Member

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    Forget the block drain plugs because you can do more damage than you can imagine with an impact - they have square heads? You should install a quality pan gasket and start at 8 ft-lbs and if it doesn't leak leave it at that. In the future it will be reusable. Make sure the rails of the pan are flat and no sealant needed.
    Fel-Pro Transmission Pan Gaskets TOS18583

    59 Chrysler Royale pans are the same as yours. Where to get them is beyond me and you may have to have them custom formed. Try Andy's Auto Sports or Google them. I'm sure they're out there.
     
  3. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    My drain plugs are 9/16-6pt. heads so a 6pt. socket fits just right.

    My gasket is the Mopar black plastic with the silicon seals all around the perimeter and bolt holes. I did trace the leak to the dip stick tube so that means a new o-ring.

    I decided to use the poly bushings to replace the shredded rrubber bushings.
     
  4. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Well I just learned that it is a huge waste of time trying to simply replace the bushing in the tailshaft transmission mount. No way in hell is that coming out short of melting it out. Guess that means buying an complete new mount with the poly bushing already in.
     
  5. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Ha, ha I finally got that mount apart. Went down to the Hornet today and got Tom along with his Sawzall. That took care of that bushing quickly and was able to slide the new one in.

    Took care of the last leak under the transmission by replacing the old o-ring on the filler tube. Now no more drops of trans fluid.

    Incredibly enough I got the block drain plug out after reading all the horror stories about them being frozen. Three days in a row I used my 50% acetone/50% transmission fluid mixture to dribble a couple of drops on the exposed threads with a pipette. Size wise the head is 9/16" but does have some play to make me nervous using even a 6 pt. socket and stripping it. Turns out a 14mm socket is a very nice snug fit and with a standard 1/2" breaker bar was able to budge the plug immediately. Transferred over to a 3/8" ratchet and it came right out. The plug didn't match up to any of my thread chasers which was very strange so off to a hardware store for a petcock. Ironically, after getting it out no water came out of the block.
     
  6. 65sporty

    65sporty Senior Member

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    Is the hole plugged with rust? I have taken drains out before and nothing comes out so I take a punch or screwdriver to punch a hole through the rust.
     
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  7. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    I didn't think of that although the plug end was black. I'll check it out with a probe.
     
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  8. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    You were right there was a solid wall of a plug inside. Took a few good stabs from a pick to open up and drain it did.
     
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  9. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Knocked out the bad core plug and ugh the stuff behind it. Dark brown mucky grit and stone like pieces. So I knocked the one next to it out to find pretty much the same thing. Spent time digging it all out with a tool and then put a hose in the radiator and flushed the block clean. The other side is ok but will still knock out the middle plugs and do the same thing before closing up and then putting a cleaner in and running the car for a few hours before flushing it out.

    The drain plug on this side came out with the 14mm socket and breaker bar with nary a problem. I was pleasantly surprised.
     
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  10. 65sporty

    65sporty Senior Member

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    I did a 96 Dodge 1500 one time that had a leaking freeze plug and upon removing the plug found the same thing, just full of rust. I removed all the freeze plugs, dug out what I could and washed out the rest.
     
  11. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Well I think I screwed myself by taking out a plug I really didn't have to. I have spent 5 hours on trying to get one brass plug in and have been unable. Done it in 1/2 spurts so as not to let my frustration lead me to doing something really stupid. Even tried putting it in the freezer for awhile and then pressing it in by hand as best as possible before tapping it in. First, tapping is a waste of time as it needs some good whacks. Yet after some whacks the brass plug just falls back out when you remove the socket to see your progress.
     
  12. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    May have solved the problem. Spent some web time trying to ascertain that the plug size is 1 5/8" or 1.625". I then went out to mic the marked 1 5/8" brass plug. They all measured 1.815" while the old steel plug measured 1.625" exactly. So it will never go in and now down to the auto parts store with my micrometer.
     
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  13. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Just fricken great. So my car now gets laid up for lack of two core plugs. No matter what parts store I go to the plugs are made by Dorman. They are all stamped 1 5/8" (1.625") but everyone measures 1.825". That translates to more than 1 6/8" and will never go into my block. Doesn't matter brass or steel it is the same problem. I rather not use rubber since I do have a clear shot at getting two metal plugs in if they even exist anymore.
     
  14. BIGBARNEYCARS

    BIGBARNEYCARS Senior Member

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    Mike. Two things I'd try.(1) A company called McMaster-Carr, you can find on the web @ www.mmcmaster.com and I believe their catalog can be accessed on the web also.(I have one that'z 12 yearz old and 3 1/2" thick but part #'z don't change just the prices ah bit) Their like Grainger only big and better AND way less expensive. AND almost without exception the stuff they sell iz MADE IN AMERICA. I think they have EIGHT warehouses scattered around the country? I deal with them out of Cleveland, Oh. and my shipments arrive from Atlanta, Ga. usually within 24-48 hours UPS. the phone# in Cleveland iz 1-330-995-5500 Your side of the planet iz on Norwalk blvd. in Santa Fe Springz @ 562-692-5911. The only other suggestion would be to find a tap for the larger Dorman plug and in large the hole? Tapping cast iron iz not difficult az long az you go in and out very slowly. lol Theirz that D*** DORMAN NAME AGAIN. Like ah "civil service rocket" you can't fire 'um and you can't get 'um to work. G.L. with finding the correct plug. Keep us posted, Jer
     
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  15. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    I'm going to take a trek over to a Chrysler-Dodge dealer as I located part # 04556022 core plug 1.625". You would think straight from the source would be accurate.
     
  16. Big_John

    Big_John Old Man with a Hat

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  17. rags

    rags Active Member

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    just checked my '65 383. did plugs last year. plugs are stamped 1 5/8 1635c. crosses to dorman 565-030, but i sure don't recommend dorman. crosses also to napa #3813041 probably a better bet.
     
  18. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    To be safe I ordered a group of 5 from Rock Auto that Big John recommended. No one anywhere near me had any in stock or even listed on their computers. I'll still check out the Dodge dealer on Wednesday.
     
  19. rags

    rags Active Member

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    i checked napa's website for a location near pleasant hill ca. they show as "available in store" at the walnut creek store.
     
  20. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    Now there is a store that is not even on my radar screen since I have never used a NAPA outlet in my life. Oh well, Rock Auto is costing me $4 a piece for these plugs.