WANTED Drivers side frame rail for 1966 Chrysler

Mopar Parts Wanted

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  1. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    Looking at the crumbling remains of the drivers side rail on Mathilda. I plan to "splint" it this weekend, just for short term until I can get a good rail to replace it.

    Gratefully,

    Gerald
     
  2. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    I have some, but it will take me a couple of days to get pics, will get back to you.
     
  3. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    EXCELLENT! I might need a new tranny X-member also. Take your time.

    Thanks for such a prompt reply!

    Gerald Morris
     
  4. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    For your Arizona car?:wtf::poke:
     
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  5. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Snowbirds must have brought it with them. :lol:
     
  6. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    VERY odd, but since the car first got sold in Indiana, I figure the initial corrosion started there. Its been here the last ~30 yrs, most of those in a residential garage, partly assembled. Anyway, after driving it near 4 yrs, the damned driver side rail under my seat to the tranny crossmember has rotted very badly. I HAVE taken a punch around both rails, hunting other tumors, but want to do so more rigourously. Crossmember probably should be replaced too.. Found good "splint" material in a 4 ft length of 2.5" square tubing, 3/16" or so thick, so I can probably make something ugly and serviceable short -term. Attaching this to the good portion of the rail up front and using some heavy plate under my seat to support several big bolts through the pan and square tube, to the cross member should lend decent connectivity and support. I now understand some of my suspension troubles better......
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2020
  7. moparsteve

    moparsteve Member

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    I have this 1966 Chrysler New Yorker with perfect rear rails and very nice trunk floor and probably lots of other rust free parts you could use. I am located 13 miles from the Oklahoma - Arkansas border and right on I-40. I was going to sell this car to a demo derby guy but if you could use the parts you can have what is there for 250. I am super busy with my business so I have no time to remove or ship big parts so you would need to arrange pickup. PM me for my number if interested.

    IMG_4967.JPG

    IMG_4968.JPG

    IMG_4969.JPG
     
  8. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    I have the pics of the rails here for you, check them out, they are solid unit with the passenger side showing surface rust only from exposure to the weather. chassis.jpg chassis1.jpg chassis2.jpg chassis3.jpg chassis4.jpg chassis5.jpg
     
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  9. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    This most generous offer I can't take, simply because of logistics. Pity too, as there are indeed QUITE a few good looking bits visible in the pics you've posted, but I haven't the means to get to the Ak/Ok border on I-40 for now.

    Having now poked extensively over my frame rails with a sharp, hard metal punch and hammer, I found the rest of the frame sheet metal to be quite sound, except the corner of the rear crossmember and the first 24" up the driver side frame rail. Having tapped out plenty of dried mud from that rusted out section, I now believe it must have laid for some time w that corner in contact with earth, front slightly down-slope to pick up ground run-off water. The floor-pan is good and solid just above this mess though, as is the forward portion of the rail beyond the critical back 24" from the cross-member to the first upward bend, at the big bracket facing out to the side bolted into the floor pan.

    The 5" width at the back, which tapers down gradually while the height of the rail increases permits a nice bit of reinforcing square tube to be inserted into the rail, which then can be joined to it by some 1/2"x13 all-thread, several bolts through the top, and a little welding at the back as well as another 1/2"x13 bolt to secure the crossmember to the square tube, using a big nut welded in place on the back side of the cross-member, already present. The square tube consists of 3/16" sheet, which is thicker than the original 14 gauge sheet of the rail.

    Sooooo, I believe I can and will contrive this "splint" for the near-term future, and see what can be acquired for a more elegant, permantn fix to be effected when the engine is replaced. (That not being necessary for some time I hope.)

    Ergo, if you need to be rid of that NY'er, don't hold it for me. My wife and I both thank you for your thoughtful, generous offer all the same.

    Gerald Morris
     
  10. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Gerald, my buddy in Goodyear has a 68 300 parts car that I sold him that is rust free. I can ask him if he'll cut the rail out of it for you.
     
  11. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    Goodyear is definitely closer than Ak/Ok! Sure, ask your buddy. I've worked in Goodyear. Ask him about the rear crossmember too. That's as badly eroded as the frame rail.

    Many Thanks,

    Gerald
     
  12. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I will talk to him in the morning.
     
  13. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    Those are nice looking rear rails, but what I need is that front driver side one and probably a transmission cross member with it. I think I can contrive a good short term fix for mine, but am keeping eyes open for good sheetmetal on this from now on.

    Muchas gracias,

    Gerald
     
  14. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    ++COOL!
     
  15. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    Are you meaning the front sub frame which unbolts from the car?
     
  16. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I think that's what he's talkin' 'bout, yeah.......
     
  17. Wollfen

    Wollfen Old Man with a Hat

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    It would be so much easier to simply unbolt the old one and bolt in a new one and know you have got it right rather than spend time welding cutting repairing etc. It can be done in a weekend too. Plus a whole chassis will only typically set you back $200.
     
  18. azblackhemi

    azblackhemi Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Just want to confirm exactly what you need. It's sounding like you want the front stub frame, not the rear frame rails. Correct? Need to know what I'm asking my buddy for.
     
  19. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Kinda like this, maybe?? (From the sale ads here, 67 Chrysler front sub frame.)
    upload_2020-1-20_12-10-14.png
     
  20. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Well-Known Member

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    Right, the front driver side frame rail and transmission crossmember are the only parts of the stub frame compromised, as far as I can tell. Pity is that is just the rearmost 24" of the rail and the left corner of the X-member.
     
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