Duracool

[66MonacoWagon]

Hey folks,

I'd like to start a new thread on Duracool. I took the wagon last night to Chrysler night at a local cruise-in (Saw 2 beautiful 300s, I think a 60 F and a 61 G). While talking to some local Mopar guys, I mentioned that I'd like to get the AC charged one day, and I had 2 separate guys just tell me to use Duracool. Up until last night I had not heard of it. I've done some searches on here and see some folks use it.

Opinions?
Does it do damage that limits me in the future?
What do I have to do to try it?

Thanks in advance!

Joe

 

[pomonamissel]

i've used it , and so has my buds . it works great . about half the head pressures and it don't leak down like the others do . works with any oem or aftermarket a/c systems as well . this duster puts out @ 56 deg temps from the outlets . and its been done for years .

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Truth be known I use it too. It's pretty good and easy to buy (Walmart) and do yourself.

I've done the R134A thing and it's probably better performance wise and at least the feds can't say anything, but finding a shop to convert your car to R134A from R12 and charge it and maintain it can be a pain as you've discovered.

I've used it for 10 years at least now and no problems. Keep in mind it's butane based and quite flammable. Just use your head.

I get 32 degrees out of the vents but I gotta be moving... 50 degrees sitting around on a hot day.

 

[66MonacoWagon]

And there is no need to change the oil like with 134a?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I never changed mine - but I switched to Duracool AFTER an R134A conversion. The original oil was changed out to proper oil for R134A - and I think it's compatible with Duracool.

 

[commando1]

I use it. It's R12a. In fact just this week I dumped a couple of cans into my R134a '06 F150 (first recharge in its 12 yrs ). It's damn cold!!!!!
Highly recomended.

 

[Davea Lux]

There is no question that Duracool or R12a is a highly effective refrigerant. There are some significant downside risks to it however.

Duracool is a hydrocarbon refrigerant that is a blend of several hydrocarbon gases, among them, Propane and Butane. This all works fine as long as the A/C system is not breached in some way such as in an accident. The Propane and Butane are highly flammable. If the condenser or a hose gets a hole punched in it, there is a high potential for a fire in an accident.
The second major risk is that if the vehicle is placed in closed storage such as a garage and the system leaks, the enclosure is now full of a potentially explosive mix of Propane, Butane and Oxygen from the air. The same holds true if the evaporator of the vehicle springs a leak and fills the car full of flammable and explosive gasses.

See: www.epa.gov/snap/unacceptable-substitute-refrigerants

We evaluated the risks associated with this refrigerant and decided the potential liability from fire or explosive events made this a choice that was too risky for a commercial fleet shop.

There are still some of the test videos available where Duracool was allowed to leak into the vehicle interior and exposed to a spark. Made for some pretty spectacular explosions.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Hey folks,

I'd like to start a new thread on Duracool. I took the wagon last night to Chrysler night at a local cruise-in (Saw 2 beautiful 300s, I think a 60 F and a 61 G). While talking to some local Mopar guys, I mentioned that I'd like to get the AC charged one day, and I had 2 separate guys just tell me to use Duracool. Up until last night I had not heard of it. I've done some searches on here and see some folks use it.

Opinions?
Does it do damage that limits me in the future?
What do I have to do to try it?

Thanks in advance!

Joe

Also see:
www.autotechac.com/ac-facts-and-myths

This has a pretty good video attached.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

"Sparks" . . . like a dome light switch making contact when opening a door? Like the factory clock "re-winding" when the contact points in it touch? A spark across the ignition points? OR that light switch on the wall?

I believe that many or most of the "drop-in" gasses for R-12 systems are actually modified R-134a gasses? But work in the environment filled with R-12 with good results.

Seems like R-12 itself is flammable. But not in the "flash point" orientation of butane or propane-enhanced refrigerant gasses.

Low speed cooling can be an issue with a R-134a converted system. One reason that most OEM R-134a systems had larger condensers than the prior R-12 systems. Especially if the vehicle body happened to be changed at the same time. The first LH cars had condensers that were bigger than the radiators they were mounted in front of, by observation.

CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

"Sparks" . . . like a dome light switch making contact when opening a door? Like the factory clock "re-winding" when the contact points in it touch? A spark across the ignition points? OR that light switch on the wall?

I believe that many or most of the "drop-in" gasses for R-12 systems are actually modified R-134a gasses? But work in the environment filled with R-12 with good results.

Seems like R-12 itself is flammable. But not in the "flash point" orientation of butane or propane-enhanced refrigerant gasses.

Low speed cooling can be an issue with a R-134a converted system. One reason that most OEM R-134a systems had larger condensers than the prior R-12 systems. Especially if the vehicle body happened to be changed at the same time. The first LH cars had condensers that were bigger than the radiators they were mounted in front of, by observation.

CBODY67

R12 (Dicloroflouromethane) itself does not normally support combustion. What it does do if it is exposed to an open flame is to break down and form some nasty by products HCL and HF chief among them. Both of these acids present a very nasty inhalation hazard if in gaseous form. Sufficient inhalation exposure is lethal.

Dave

 

[66MonacoWagon]

Ross,

I still can't find anything that states I have to change the oil. Can find anything on their website that says it has to be changed. Has anyone else converted without changing the oil?

Joe

 

[70bigblockdodge]

R12 (Dicloroflouromethane) itself does not normally support combustion. What it does do if it is exposed to an open flame is to break down and form some nasty by products HCL and HF chief among them. Both of these acids present a very nasty inhalation hazard if in gaseous form. Sufficient inhalation exposure is lethal.

Dave

Phosgene gas is nothing to mess with. It is a oxygen replacer. Area will become uninhabitable till ventilated sufficiently.
Don't use good (illegal in CA.) brake clean when welding (to clean grease first) when exposed to the arc it will create phosgene gas also.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

If your system was already converted then I think you've got nothing to worry about there re the oil.

If there is pressure in the system but ni cooling then there's another issue. I can't remember what you said about the current state of the system.... but the clutch may not be engaging which is a relatively easy fix, or there's a blockage in the system somewhere preventing the travel of the refrigerant.

 

[66MonacoWagon]

Mine has never been converted to 134a, as far as I know its just evaporated the R12.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Well then, just to be safe, flush the system and replace the oil. Fill plug is located on the passenger side bottom rearmost corner of the compressor.