edelbrock 1806 carb issue

[swisherred]

So Ive been having issues getting things tuned in right...flat WOT and difficulties getting the idle and screws right...I finally found out that the carb was NOT the carb I was told it was when i bought the car. I was told it was a 1406 but its an 1806. The 1806 had electric choke....but my car has manual. The electric control was removed leaving a hole in the side of the carb bleeding air. Edlebrock says you cannot convert one carb to the other, which just tells me its the wrong carb or its at least missing parts. This might explain why I dont have the power I should under throttle and its so sluggish around town....aside from the 2:76 gearing.

wonderful.

 

[CBODY67]

The "hot air" integral chokes did use a small vacuum pull to help pull the warmer air into the choke coil housing, but I'm not sure that would be needed on a full-electric integral choke set-up. If there's an open hole, for now, find some way to reliably plug it. I'm not sure if that's the reason for the performance/adjustment issues you're having, though. The vacuum "leak" you mention would be what it is, but shouldn't really be that "big" compared to something like a broken vacuum line or something like that.

When driving a car with a "highway" rear axle ratio, going from idle to WOT doesn't seem to work as well in getting things moving as a part-throttle punch and then to WOT after the engine has enough rpm to really need the secondaries in low gear. Best to aim for sharp off-idle response with the correct hot base idle speed.

By observation, it's good to want to rely upon what the prior owner told you about the car, but doing your own investigation/research to confirm what you've been told, up front, usually works best. Just my respective observation. AND that can also go for what any tech hotline operative might tell you, too.

To me, without further investigation on my part, the electric choke is an add-on for the basic carb design. Just as some AFBs had integral chokes and some had divorced chokes on the OEM carbs back then. Didn't change the basic guts of the carb, just what was on the outside related to what modulated the choke on the carb. There were aftermarket choke cable kits to make an "automatic" choke into a "manual" choke, back then.

Many people who grew up with manual chokes seem to consider an automatic choke "troublesome" as they aged, so they put in the manual choke cable to suit their desires/needs. Personally, it might take a little bit to finesse an automatic choke to best fit the particular application, but once I get to that point, where I'm satisfied, that's all that's needed for a long time. Even if the particular carb is a "factory replacement" OEM-spec carb.

Keep us posted on your progress.

CBODY67

 

[swisherred]

I appreciate what you are saying....the thing I found was that when plugged it would have a drastic affect on the engine. That port is full vacuum...which means past the butterflies and running lean. I plugged it...readjusted the timing idle speed and screws and it made a huge difference in total response. It may not be right But it changed allot. I contacted edelbrock to make sure I won't damage anything by blocking the port....waiting to see what they say.

 

[swisherred]

It was like trying to drive with the vacumm advance port (drivers side) wide open. As soon as i plugged the port it ran like crap and you could smell it was running incredibly rich...thats why I readjusted everything.

 

[CBODY67]

It was like trying to drive with the vacumm advance port (drivers side) wide open. As soon as i plugged the port it ran like crap and you could smell it was running incredibly rich...thats why I readjusted everything.

Of course, if you made the adjustments with the "air bleed" happening, that would make it more correct with that additional air getting in. Once plugged off, that would shift things to the rich side of things, necessitating a new adjustment to put things back to closer to where they should have been anyway.

Thanks,
CBODY67