Electric choke wire on an Edelbrock 4BBL

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Old Man with a Hat
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Okay guys, car has a late model Edelbrock 4 barrel carburetor on it and it needs a power wire to the terminal on the electrical choke, where does one usually route it from?
 
Okay guys, car has a late model Edelbrock 4 barrel carburetor on it and it needs a power wire to the terminal on the electrical choke, where does one usually route it from?
Be advised if you are going to do that (run it from the resistor), be sure to install an inline fuse in case the electric choke ever shorts out or you can wind up dead on the highway. You can also run it from one of the "Power" leads from the fuse block. Either way it should be fused, in my opinion the power lead would be the preferred choice, one that is active with the ignition switch.

Dave
 
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Be advised if you are going to do that (run it from the resistor), be sure to install an inline fuse in case the electric choke ever shorts out or you can wind up dead on the highway. You can also run it from one of the "Power" leads from the fuse block. Either way it should be fused, in my opinion the power lead would be the preferred choice, one that is active with the ignition switch.

Dave
I'm also running from the hot side of the BR. That's a good point about the fuse Dave. I never thought about that. While restoring my '66 Windsor, I noted that it is possible to start the engine with every single fuse removed from the fuse block, which means that the BR circuit is unfused!

If you tap into one of the key-on power leads on the fuse block, note that many are also hot when the key is in the accessory position. In other words, your choke could be getting power when you're sitting with the car off, listening to the radio. If you're okay with that, you could also tap into the circuit at the windshield wiper motor, which is a key-on (+accessory) circuit and a much shorter wire run than going all the way back to the fuse block.
 
Mine comes from the line side of the ballast resistor to get a constant key-on 12v.
Are you using the two position ballast or four? I’m having a charging issue. But, at the same time the original owner bypassed the resistor.
 
2226518C-E7FD-4BFC-9D14-A4DBBB24D520.jpeg
 
Are you using the two position ballast or four? I’m having a charging issue. But, at the same time the original owner bypassed the resistor.
The ballast resistor is for the ignition, if your having charging problems check the alt and voltage regulator
 
The ballast resistor is for the ignition, if your having charging problems check the alt and voltage regulator
So I should hook power for the coil on the distributor and the electric choke to ballast resistor? What’s a simple test for volt regulator? I’m new to C bodies. Thanks.
 
So I should hook power for the coil on the distributor and the electric choke to ballast resistor? What’s a simple test for volt regulator? I’m new to C bodies. Thanks.

The coil should be hooked to the ballast resistor. Hooking the electric choke to this circuit could overload it, that is why you should run a new lead from a terminal on the fuse block that is powered by the ignition switch.

You have a mechanical regulator and an early style alternator. To test the alternator, remove the single spade connector from the rear of the alternator and prepare a temporary lead from the battery positive terminal to the terminal you removed the push on spade connector from. This will energize the alternator field and have it ready to charge at full output. Start the car and hook up the temporary lead to the alternator, it should show at least a 30 amp charge on the ammeter. If it does not show a charge, the alternator is likely toast and needs to be taken off and tested. Most auto parts can do this for you. Do not leave the temporary lead hooked up any longer than is necessary to do the test! Once you are sure the alternator is working, start the car and use a voltmeter or multi meter to check the voltage at the battery. On a properly charging system, you should pull at least 13.2 volts at 1000 rpms.

These older mopars had issues with the ammeter burning out and going open. This will also cause the vehicle not to charge, but usually when this happens most of the vehicle electrical systems will be dead due to a lack of power to them. If everything still works, odds are the ammeter is still functional.

Dave
 
So I should hook power for the coil on the distributor and the electric choke to ballast resistor? What’s a simple test for volt regulator? I’m new to C bodies. Thanks.
No, your ballast resistor has been bypassed. Electric choke gets connected to 12v switched ignition power. Get a better pic of your distributor, from what I see in the pic it looks like a aftermarket HEI like a GM unit.

Do you have a volt meter? You will need one to test alternator output. Full field test will tell you if it's capable of charging.

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